W(19, 0 53:33:31?“
`
`Office européen des brevets
`
`llllillllilliiilliilliiIlllllllllllllliiilllllilllllilllilllillliilll
`
`(11)
`
`EP 0 826 809 A1
`
`(12)
`
`EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION
`
`(43) Date of publication:
`04.03.1998 Bulletin 1998/10
`
`(51) int. CL5: D043 21/18
`
`(21) Application number: 97112691.?
`
`(22) Date of filing: 24.07.1997
`
`(84) Designated Contracting States:
`AT BE CH DE DK ES Fl FR GB GR iE IT LI LU MC
`NL PT SE
`Designated Extension States:
`AL LT LV no Si
`
`(30) Priority: 27.08.1996 IT UD960165
`
`(71) Applicant:
`Piave Industria Tessuti Elastici SpA
`32032 Feltre (BL) (lT)
`
`
`
`{72)
`
`Inventor: Antoniet'ti, Franco
`32032 Feltre (BL) (lT)
`
`(74) Representative:
`Petraz, Gilberto Luigi
`GLP S.r.l.
`
`Piazzale Cavedalis 6/2
`33100 Udine (ET)
`
`(54) Method to make etastic knitwear fabric and relative fabric
`
`,
`
`‘uu‘M.
`‘‘‘..:‘,
`
`
`
`Method to make elastic knitwear fabric from an
`(57)
`elastic or elastomeric thread (1 1a) and from at least one
`non elastic thread (1 lb). the method using a single-sec-
`tion run-proof knitting machine, or Raschel
`type
`machine, having a bar of needles (12) moving in alter-
`nation and at least a iciward bar and a rear bar of guide
`needles onto which the relative threads which have to
`
`be woven are threaded. the elastic thread (1la) being
`constituted by an elastic thread known commercially by
`the name of "Lycra", or material similar or comparable to
`it. with a count between 22 and 80 Dtex; the non elastic
`thread (11b) being constituted by a mutti—tilament nylon
`thread. or material similar or comparable to it, with a
`count of between 22 and 73 Dtex, where the ratio
`between the count expressed in Dtex and the filament
`count is the same or less than two; the weave of the non
`elastic thread (11b) having a basic pattern with a recur—
`rence equal to four rows (13) of the machine, in which at
`least three consecutive rows (13) work on separate nee-
`dles(12).
`fabric obtained by the method
`Elastic knitwear
`described above. using an elastic thread (11a) identifia-
`ble as "Lycra" with a count of 40 Dtex and a multi-fila-
`ment non elastic thread (11b) with a count of 44 Dtex
`and 28 filaments, with a maximum thickness of around
`0.54 mm and a minimum thickness of around 0.30 mm
`
`according to the type of basic weave used.
`
`EP0826809A1
`
`Printed by Xerox (UK) Business Servtoes
`21511534
`
`

`

`1
`
`EP0826 809 A1
`
`2
`
`Description
`
`This invention concerns a method to make elastic
`
`fabric for knitted goods, and also the fabric obtained by
`using the method, as set forth in the respective main
`claims.
`
`The invention, while using substantially traditional
`machines, makes it possible to obtain a product of very
`high quality in terms of modulus, elasticity, reduction in
`thickness, great permeability. a high level of transpira-
`tion and therefore a very low quotient of heat retained,
`and other qualities too.
`The invention also makes it possible to obtain a lab-
`ric with high non-run characteristics.
`The state of the art of knitted goods, for particular
`applications and particular products, covers the method
`of using an elastic thread, or elastomeric thread, inter-
`woven with a non elastic thread in order to obtain a lab—
`
`ric which has characteristics of elasticity, obtaining in
`any case a good feel quality which does not prejudice
`the contact effect with the skin of the wearer.
`
`Sometimes at least a third thread may be used in
`combination with the first two, usually of the non elastic
`type.
`in some cases, the fabric obtained from the knitting
`machine can be subjected to a process of teaseling fol-
`lowed by a process of shearing in order to improve the
`feel quality of the fabric.
`The knitting machines which make this kind of fab—
`ric normally have a movable bar of needles which
`moves in alternation, and at least two bars of guide nee-
`dies, that is, needles with a threading eye, defined as
`forward bar and rear bar, on each of which one of the
`threads which have to be woven is threaded.
`
`The bars of guide needles are movable in a way
`which is coordinated with the movement of the bar of
`
`needles to define the looping run of the thread around
`the needles themselves.
`
`ln traditional methods, it is preferred to put the elas-
`tic thread onto the rear bar, while the non elastic thread
`is put on the forward bar; however an inversion of this
`position of the threads is also found in the state of the
`art.
`
`The state oi the art also covers the fact that the non
`
`elastic component is woven to the elastic component
`with a slack length so that, when the fabric is removed
`from the machine, the elastic component contracts and
`consequently the slack lengths of the non elastic com-
`ponents are forced and are arranged as well as possible
`to be teaseled and sheared in such a way as to term a
`fabric which is characterised by a skin effect.
`ERIE-0.452.607 proposes to perform a simple
`inversion of the threading in the machine between the
`rear bar and the forward bar. that is the threading of the
`elastic thread in the forward bar and the threading of the
`non elastic thread in the rear bar. but this is obvious in
`itself, as the final effect obtained is specular.
`USA-2996906 describes a method to form a non-
`
`run fabric where both the threads, the elastic thread and
`the non-elastic thread, form the mesh in alternation, and
`not with every run of the machine.
`In this case the method obtains rows of mesh
`
`formed by elastic thread alternated with rows of mesh
`formed by non elastic thread, and therefore it does not
`provide a fabric wherein the elastic thread and the non
`elastic thread form the mesh at the same time on the
`same needle.
`USA-4044575 describes a method to form a fabric
`
`which does not have non<run properties. since only the
`non elastic thread forms the mesh whereas the elastic
`
`thread does not form the mesh, it is inserted as a sup-
`port or inlay.
`Moreover, the Atlas mesh binding is interrupted
`after three meshes and the total ratio is 6.
`
`EP—A-ot 19535 simply describes a method to form a
`fabric which to the technique of forming the mesh adds
`the insertion of a supplementary elastic thread in the
`direction of the well, thus giving extra elasticity in that
`direction.
`
`All these solutions, even if they are partially satis-
`factory, have shown characteristics which can still be
`improved on, at least in terms of elasticity and modulus
`of the final fabric thus obtained.
`
`is
`The present applicants have also found that it
`possible to obtain in the final fabric a reduced thickness
`even with the same qualities of elasticity and resistance.
`In order to improve the quality of a fabric obtained
`from an elastic component and a non elastic compo-
`nent, using substantially traditional knitting machines
`and threading methods, and to achieve further advan-
`tages, the present applicants have designed, tested and
`embodied this invention, which uses in a new combina-
`tion, which could never have been thought of before.
`basic components and specific weaves which were
`known to the state of the art.
`This invention is set forth and characterised in the
`
`10
`
`15
`
`20
`
`25
`
`30
`
`35
`
`4a
`
`respective main claims, while the dependent claims
`describe variants of the idea of the main embodiment.
`
`this invention is to achieve a
`The purpose of
`method to make a knitwear fabric which gives a final
`fabric of very high quality both manual and mechanical,
`of elasticity and resistence.
`A further purpose of the invention is to obtain a fab—
`ric which has a considerably reduced thickness com-
`pared with oonventional fabrics normally produced, with
`the same qualities of elasticity and resistance.
`A further purpose of the invention is to obtain a fab-
`ric with a high level of permeability and transpiration
`with a consequent very low quotient of heat retained
`which gives the fabric the characteristic of "cold" fabrics.
`A further purpose of the invention is to obtain a final
`fabric with high non-run characteristics.
`A further purpose of the invention is to obtain an
`elastic fabric particularly suitable, because of the above
`mentioned qualities, for underwear, corset articles and
`sportswear.
`
`55
`
`

`

`3
`
`EP 0 826 809 A1
`
`4
`
`The fabric according to the invention is obtained by
`weaving in the appropriate way a first thread with elastic
`or elastomeric characteristics with a second thread with
`non elastic characteristics.
`
`In one embodiment of the invention. the first elastic
`or elastomeric thread is constituted by a thread known
`commercially as "Lycra", or similar material, with a
`count of between 22 and 80 Dtex.
`The second thread with non elastic characteristics
`
`is constituted by a multi-filament nylon thread. or some
`comparable material, for example nylon 6. with a count
`of between 22 and 78 Dtex.
`
`According to a variant. the material which consti-
`tutes the filament is nylon 6.6.
`According to a further variant. the second thread
`with non elastic characteristics is made of polyester.
`According to the invention. the nylon thread is cho-
`sen with a number of filaments such that the ratio
`between the count emressed in Dtex and filaments is in
`any case less than 2. This principle defines the mini-
`mum number of filaments which must constitute a non
`
`elastic thread which can be adapted lor the invention.
`this minimum number being 11 in the case of thread
`with a count of 22 Dtex.
`
`The method according to the invention uses single
`section knitting machines of
`the non-run type. or
`Flaschel machines. substantially conventional with at
`least two bars of guide needles. one forward and one
`rear. cooperating with a bar of needles.
`The non—run guality of the fabric obtained with the
`method according to the invention is guaranteed.
`according to convention. by the fact that during weaving.
`the elastic thread and the non elastic thread work
`
`respectively in opposition.
`In this case, the thread with elastic characteristics is
`threaded on the rear bar of the machine. while the
`thread with non elastic characteristics is threaded on
`the tonrvard bar.
`
`All the guide needles of the bars. both forward and
`rear. are threaded with the relative thread. so that the
`machine presents a so-called full—bar threading.
`The weaves used to obtain the fabric according to
`the invention. starting from the threads as defined
`above, all have the common characteristic that the non
`elastic thread always recurs with every four machine
`rows.
`rows which constitute the weave
`In these four
`recurrence of the non elastic thread at least three con-
`secutive rows are made to work on three distinct nee-
`dlas.
`
`As the guide needle passes over the relative needle
`it may define. according to the case. an open mesh or a
`closed mesh.
`
`In all cases where the method according to the
`invention is applied. the thickness of the resulting fabric
`is in any case extremely reduced and variable according
`to the type of weave used.
`According to a variant a third thread is used, for
`
`example cotton. which is bound to the non elastic thread
`by the interposition of the elastic thread.
`The attached figures are given as a non-restrictive
`example and show some preferred embodiments of the
`invention as follows:-
`
`Fig.1
`
`Figta
`
`1'0
`
`Fig.2
`
`Fig.3
`
`15
`
`the
`
`shows the basic pattern of a first weave used
`in the method according to the invention;
`partially shows the development of
`weave in Fig.1;
`shows the basic pattern of a second weave
`used in the method according to the inven-
`tion;
`shows the basic pattern of a third weave
`used in the method according to the inven—
`tion.
`
`20
`
`25
`
`30
`
`35
`
`4o
`
`45
`
`55
`
`The reference number 10a in the attached figures
`denotes generally a basic length of mesh made by the
`rear bar of guide needles on which is threaded the elas-
`tic thread 1 1a. while the reference number 10b denotes
`generally the corresponding section of mesh made by
`the forward bar of guide needles on which is threaded
`the non elastic thread 11b.
`
`Each point 12 denotes the position of a needle of
`the bar with which the relative rear and forward bars of
`
`guide needles cooperate. while the spaces between the
`needles are denoted by the numbers underneath so as
`to define, according to convention. the run followed by
`the thread 11a. 11b guided by the guide needles
`between the needles 12.
`
`The number 13 denotes the lines which represent
`the various rows of the machine which are progressively
`covered by the weave made by the threads 11a and
`11b.
`
`in all three cases shown. the non elastic thread 11b
`always works in opposition to the elastic thread 11a.
`thus guaranteeing the non-run quality of the final fabric,
`Moreover.
`in all the cases shown. the non elastic
`thread 11b is looped with a recurrence of four rows 13
`of the machine.
`
`in the case of Fig. 1. the elastic thread 11a also
`recurs every four rows 13 of the machine. while in the
`case at Figs. 2 and 3 the elastic thread 11a recurs every
`two rows 13 of the machine.
`
`As can be seen from Figs. l. 2 and 3. inside the four
`rows 13 of the recurrence. the non elastic thread 11b is
`looped. for at least three consecutive rows 13. on dis-
`tinct needles 12.
`
`This type of weave causes the basic patterns
`shown in Figs.
`1 and 2 to be reproduced continuously.
`moving the non elastic thread 11b sideways from time to
`time by one needle 12. whereas in Fig. 3 the movement
`takes place for two consecutive rows on two needles
`and for the other two rows of the period on one needle.
`ln the weave shown in Fig.1 it can be seen how the
`two threads. the elastic 11a and the non elastic 11b. are
`moved on the respective bars of guide needles in a
`
`

`

`5
`
`EP0826 809 A1
`
`6
`
`specular way to each other.
`ln particular. the elastic thread ‘1 is threaded on the
`rear bar follows a run denoted by the notation 2-3. (in
`this pass a closed mesh around the relative needle 12 is
`achieved). 2-1 (an open mesh is achieved). 1-0 (a
`closed mesh is achieved) and 1-2 (an open mesh is
`achieved)
`in the same way. for the non elastic thread 11b
`threaded on the forward bar. the run. specular to the
`previous one. can be identified by the notation 1-0, 1-2.
`2—3. 2-1.
`With this type of weave the thread foilows a run in
`which with every successive row 13 the thread passes
`onto a distinct needle 12. moved sideways and adjacent
`to the preceeding one.
`Fig.1a shows a partial development of the basic
`pattern of Fig.1 in which several elastic threads 11a are:
`shown. while only one non elastic thrwd 11b is shown
`so as not to overload the drawing.
`This type of weave. together with the appropriate
`choice of the basic component materials. gives a con-
`siderable reduction in the thickness so as to obtain a
`
`thickness of the finished fabric in the region of 0.34 mm,
`using an elastic thread 1 1a made of "Lycra" with a count
`of 40 Dtex and a non elastic thread 11b made of nylon
`with a count of 44 Dtex and a number offilaments equal
`to 28.
`
`According to another embodiment. the non elastic
`thread 1 1b is made 01 polyester.
`in the weaves shown in Figs. 2 and 3. the elastic
`thread 11a is threaded on the rear bar according to a
`crossing run with a recurrence of two rows 13. identifia-
`ble by the notation 1-0. 1-2.
`Around the relative needles 12 closed meshes are
`achieved.
`For the non elastic thread 11b threaded on the for-
`
`ward bar, Fig.2 shows a basic pattern of weave which
`substantially reproduces in a specular way the weave of
`the non elastic thread 11b shown in Fig.1.
`In this case
`too there is a sequential run with a recurrence of tour
`machine rows 13. in which every consecutive row 13 is
`associated with a distinct needle 12. moved sideways
`and adjacent to the proceeding one.
`in correspondence with the pass 2-3 and the pass
`1-0 a closed mesh is achieved. whereas in corresponds
`ence with the pass 2-1 and 1-2 an open mesh is
`achieved.
`
`With this basic weave it is possible to obtain a final
`fabric with a thickness in the region of 0.43 mm using an
`elastic thread 11a made at "Lycra” with a count of 40
`Dtex and a non elastic nylon thread 11b with a count of
`44 Dtex and a number of filaments equal to 28.
`The weave in Fig.3 is different from the proceeding
`ones in that in passing trom the first to the second row
`13 and from the second to the third row 13 one needle
`
`12 is jumped. whereas in passing from the third to the
`fourth row 13 and from the fourth to the first row 13 of
`
`is looped onto the needle 12 immediately adjacent.
`With
`this weave closed meshes are always
`obtained around the respective needles 12, and thus a
`final fabric is obtained with a thickness of about 0.54
`
`mm using an elastic thread 11a made of "Lycra" with a
`count of 40 Dtex and a non elastic thread 111: made of
`
`nylon with a count 01 44 Dtex and a number of filaments
`equal to 28.
`
`10
`
`Claims
`
`1. Method to make elastic knitwear fabric starting from
`an elastic or elastomeric thread (11a) and at least
`one non elastic thread {1 1b). the method using a
`single-section.
`non-run
`knitting machine.
`or
`Fiaschel type machine. with a bar 01‘ needles (12)
`moving in alternation and at least one forward bar
`and one rear bar oi guide needles on which the rel-
`ative threads to be woven are threaded. the method
`being characterised in that:
`
`-
`
`-
`
`-
`
`the elastic thread (11a) is constituted by an
`elastic thread known commercially as "Lycra".
`or in similar or comparable material. with a
`count of between 22 and 80 Dtex;
`the non elastic thread (11b) is constituted by a
`multi filament thread made of nylon or other
`similar or comparable material. with a count of
`between 22 and 78 Dtex. where the ratio
`between the count expressed in Dtex and the
`number of the filaments is equal to or less than
`two:
`
`the weave of the non elastic thread (11b) has a
`basic pattern with a recurrence of tour machine
`rows (13), in which at least three consecutive
`rows (13) work on distinct needles (12).
`
`in which the non elastic
`2. Method as in Claim 1.
`thread (1 1b) is made of polyester.
`
`in which the elastic
`3. Method as in Claim 1 or 2.
`thread (11a) identifiable as "Lycra" has a count of
`4D Dtex.
`
`4. Method as in Claim 1 or 2. in which the non elastic
`multi-tilament thread (11b) made of nylon or of pol-
`yester has a count of 44 Dtex and a number of tile—
`merits equal to 28.
`
`51 Method as in Claim 1 or 2. in which the non elastic
`rmlti-tilament thread (11b) made of nylon or of pol-
`yester has a count of 44 Dtex and a number of file-
`ments equal to 36.
`
`6. Method as in any claim hereinbetore. in which the
`non elastic thread (11b) is made of type 6 nylon.
`
`15
`
`20
`
`25
`
`30
`
`35
`
`4a
`
`55
`
`the following period no needle 12 is jumped. the thread
`
`7. Method as in any claim from 1
`
`to 5 inclusive,
`
`in
`
`

`

`7
`
`EP 0 826 809 A1
`
`8
`
`17.
`
`18.
`
`19.
`
`20.
`
`Method as in Claim 16, in which in all the passes of
`the basic pattern the thread (11b) achieves a
`closed mesh around the relative needle (12).
`
`Method as in Claims 12 or 15, in which the basic
`pattern of weave of the elastic thread (He) has a
`recurrence of two rows (13) on two adjacent nee—
`dies (12) identifiable with the conventional notation
`1-0. 12.
`
`Method as in Claims 12 or 15, in which the basic
`pattern of weave of the elastic thread (He) has a
`recurrence equal to four rows (13) with the conven-
`tional notation 2-3, 2-1. ‘t-O, 1-2.
`
`Etastic fabric for knitwear obtained by means of the
`method of any claim hereinbetore. characterised in
`that by using an elastic thread (1 ta) identifiable as
`"Lycra" with a count of 40 Dtex and a non elastic
`multi-tilament thread (1 tb) with a count of 44 Dtex
`and 28 titaments, the elastic fabric for knitwear has
`a maximum thickness in the region of 0.54 mm and
`a minimum thickness in the region of 0.30 mm
`according to the type of basic weave used.
`
`which the non elastic thread (1 to) is made of type
`6.6 nylon.
`
`Method as in any claim hereinbefore, in which the
`weave of the non elastic thread (1 tb) has a basic
`pattern in which for every successive row (13) the
`thread (11b) in its run works with a needle (12)
`moved sideways and immediately adjacent to the
`preceeding needle (12).
`
`in
`to 7 inclusive,
`Method as in any claim from 1
`which the weave of the non elastic thread (11b) has
`a basic pattern in which for every successive row
`(13) the thread (the) is moved in its run for two con-
`secutive rows (13) on two needles (12) and for the
`other two rows (13) of the period on one needle
`(12).
`
`Method as in Claims 8 or 9, in which the weave of
`the non elastic thread (11b) is identifiabte with the
`conventional notation 1—0. 1-2, 2-3. 2—1 (Fig.1).
`
`in which in the passes 1—0
`Method as in Claim 10,
`and 2-3 the non elastic thread (11b) achieves a
`closed mesh around the relative needle (12),
`whereas in the passes 1-2 and 2-1 the non elastic
`thread (11b) achieves an open mesh around the
`relative needle (12).
`
`Method as in Claims 8 or 9, in which the weave of
`the non elastic thread (11b) is identifiable with the
`conventional notation 2-3, 2-1. 1-0, 1-2 (Fig. 2).
`
`in which in the passes 2-3
`Method as in Claim 12.
`and 1—0 the non elastic thread (11b) achieves a
`closed mesh around the relative needle (12).
`whereas in the passes 2-1 and 1-2 the non elastic
`thread (11b) achieves an open mesh around the
`relative needle (12).
`
`Method as in Claims 8 or 9, in which the basic pat-
`tern ot weave of the elastic thread (1 1a) is specular
`with that of the non elastic thread (11b).
`
`in
`to 7 inclusive,
`Method as in any claim from 1
`which the weave of the non elastic thread (11b) has
`a basic pattern in which for every pass from the first
`to the second row (13) and from the second to the
`third row(13) the thread (1 1b) in its run moves side-
`ways jumoing at least an intermediate needle (12).
`whereas in the pass from the third to the fourth row
`(13) and from the fourth to the first row (13) of the
`next period the thread (11b) moves sideways from
`one needle (12) to the adjacent one.
`
`10.
`
`11.
`
`12.
`
`13.
`
`14.
`
`15.
`
`16.
`
`Method as in Claim 15, in which the weave of the
`non elastic thread (11b) is identifiable with the con—
`ventional notation 2-3, 1-0. 2-3, 2-1 (Fig.3).
`
`1'0
`
`15
`
`20
`
`25
`
`30
`
`35
`
`4o
`
`45
`
`55
`
`

`

`EP 0 826 809 A1
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`EP 0 826 809 A1
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`

`EP 0 826 809 A1
`
`0’) EuropeanPatent
`
`Office
`
`EUROPEAN SEARCH REPORT
`
`ApplicationNumber
`
`EP 97 11 2691
`
`
`
`
`Calegory
`
`
`CLASSIFICATION OF THE
`Relevant
`C:iralion cf domlmem with inclrcalion. where aprjmpriate.
`
`
`to claim
`APPLICATION (Int.Cl.6)
`r
`of relevant nassa
`
`
`
`§004821/18
`
`US 2 996 906 A (ICHIBE)
`* column 1,
`line 21 ~ column 2,
`figure 1 *
`
`line 40;
`
`
`
`US 4 044 575 A (KRUG)
`
`E? 0 119 535 A (BAYER AG)
`
`E? 0 452 607 A (EUROJERSEY S.P.A.)
`
`TECHNICAL FIELDS
`
`llnLClj)
`SEARCHED
`
`
`
` Place at search
`
`The aresanl search report has been drawn up for all claims
`Dale al complelloncl flue search
`Examiner
`
`THE HAGUE
`CATEGORY OF Cl TED DOCUMENTS
`
`X '. particularly ralevanl 'rl taken alone
`Y I particularly relevant 'rl combined wllh another
`document or the Slam-5 category
`A : rschnological background
`O : non—written drsclasura
`P : Intermedlate dccumenl
`
`
`
`EPOFORM150803.82117’04601I
`
`Van Gelder‘, P
`19 December 1997
`T theory erpnncipla under-fling the Invention
`E : earlier parent document, but punlishea on; ur
`after the filing dam
`D ‘ documenl cirad in the application
`l. : document cited for ulnar reasons
`3. : mamfier ol the same palent lamityfi corresponding
`documen:
`
`
`
`