INTERNATIONAL
`o TEXTILE
`D QD[L[LrnLJ□
`~ ••
`q I 3 tO
`
`... CD
`J:I
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`CD u
`CD =-
`
`SPECIAL
`
`ITMA '03
`TREND REPORTS
`
`SPECIAL
`
`THE DIRECT ROUTE
`TO STAPLE FIBRE
`YARN
`
`S.PECIAL
`
`FAST JACQUARD
`WEAVING
`MACHINES
`
`~PECIAL
`
`TEXTILE FINISHING:
`EVER BETTER, EVER
`~HEAPER (?)
`
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`
`

`

`IMPRESSUM
`
`CONTENTS
`
`Publishing House:
`ITS Publishing
`International Textile Service
`Univer-Haus, Kesslerstrasse 9
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich/Switzerland
`Telephone: ++41 -1-738 48 00
`Telefax:
`++41-1-738 48 30
`internet:
`http://www.its-publishing.com
`e-mail:
`its@its-publishing.com
`
`Publisher:
`Andreas A. Keller
`
`Editor-in-Chief:
`Jurg Rupp
`
`Deputy Editor-in-Chief:
`Mac Isaacs
`(USA editor)
`
`Advertising Manager:
`Peter M. Frei
`
`Advisory Board:
`Prof. Dr. Gerhard Egbers
`Prof. Dr. Joachim Hilden
`
`Contributing editors:
`Dr.-lng. Peter Bottcher (D)
`Ji Guo Biao (PRC)
`Prof. Dr.-lng. Heinrich Planck (D)
`Freddy Gustavo Rewald (BRA)
`Prof. Dr. Anton Schenek (D)
`Prof. Dr. Roshan Shishoo (S)
`Gail Taylor (HK/PRC)
`Howard L. Thomas, jr. Ph.D. (USA)
`S. Vishwanath (IND)
`Derek T Ward (GB)
`
`Official Membership Magazine of:
`The Textile Institute
`GB-Manchester
`
`Printing office:
`NZZ Fretz AG
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich
`
`Every two months. By subscription, see separate
`order card. With the acceptance of original
`articles for publication, the exclusive right
`to publish and translate is transferred to ITS
`Publishing. Reprinting or photomechanical
`reproduction, computer memorisation and
`reproduction through electronical media,
`wholly or in part, is permissible only with the
`approval of the publishing house.
`No liability is accepted for unsolicited
`manuscripts sent in.
`
`© Copyright 2003 by ITS Publishing,
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich, Switzerland.
`
`8
`
`The ITMA
`of consolidation
`Jurg Rupp
`
`26
`
`30
`
`Winding
`Dipl. Ing . Christoph Riethmuller
`
`Doubling:
`staple, filament and
`fancy yarns
`Prof. Dr.-lng . Thomas Gries
`
`32
`
`Recycling
`Dipl.-lng. Bernd Gulich
`
`YARN FORMING
`
`10
`
`Short staple spinning
`Dr. Peter Artzt
`
`16
`
`Long staple spinning
`Prof. Dr. Anton Schenek
`
`FABRIC FORMING
`
`38
`
`Weaving preparation
`Dr. Thomas Stegmaier
`Dipl. Ing. Werner Wunderlich
`
`42
`
`Weaving machines
`Dr.-lng. Helmut Weinsdorfer
`
`20
`
`24
`
`Man-made fibre spinning
`and winding
`Prof. Dr. Heinrich Planck
`Dr.- lng. Martin Dauner
`
`Texturing
`and filament yarn
`processing
`Dipl. Ing. Stefan Schindler
`
`49
`
`Flat and circular
`knitting machines
`Dipl.-lng . Oswald Rieder
`
`Skechers EX1060-p.2
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`
`

`

`INTERNATIONAL
`
`W~ifrn1r□~
`
`INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE BULLETIN • 6TH ISSUE 2003 - VOLUME 49
`
`52 Warp knitting
`machines
`mf. Dr.-lng. habil. Peter Offermann
`
`Braiding and narrow fabric
`w eaving machines
`-.-Ing. Markus Milwich
`
`FINISHING
`
`72
`
`Continuous
`pretreatment
`Prof. Dipl.-lng. (FH) Michael Rauch
`
`75
`
`Dyeing
`Prof. Dr. Joachim Hilden
`
`93
`
`95
`
`Coating
`Dipl . Ing. Petra Schneider
`Dr. Volkmar von Arn im
`
`Measuring and
`control technology
`Dr. Hellmut Beckstein
`
`~
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`
`•
`
`I
`
`Embroidery
`-
`6 )r. rer. nat. Uwe Mohring
`Measuring technology and
`qu al ity control
`·of. Harald Dallmann
`
`Handling, automation and
`1 making-up
`) io1. Ing. Hansjurgen Harter
`
`Info rmation systems
`iol. Ing. Dieter Stellmach
`
`Environ mental t echnology
`io1. 1119. Michae1 Linke
`g. Jama' Sarsour
`
`Colour measurement
`Dr. Jean -Pierre Haug
`
`99
`r-
`Physical measuring and
`~ 2 testing technology
`Dipl.-lng. Hartmut Haid
`
`Chemistry
`1
`1106 Prof. Dr. Joachi m Hilden
`
`82
`
`Printing
`Dipl.-l ng. Karl-Hans Blank
`
`.. -... '
`
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`
`89
`
`Finishing and
`drying technology
`Dr. Thomas Stegmaier
`
`~ NEWSLETTER
`
`The electronic ITS newsletter
`will inform you via its worldwide
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`mailbox ! Send an e-mail to
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`

`

`it ma
`birmingham 2003
`
`FABRIC"FORIVITfJu
`
`Flat and circular knitting
`machine trends
`
`In many respects, ITMA 2003 took place in special conditions for knitting. With
`the decision of Birmingham (GB) as the ITMA exhibition location, the weft
`knitting machinery manufacturers developed their own conditions for pre(cid:173)
`senting their products in a place closer to the market pulse, and catering for
`knitwear tradition and innovation. With Milan (I) as the exhibition site for the
`newly founded IKME, a location, which assumes an important position for the
`knitwear industry in particular, was selected. In the end, only the flat knitting
`machinery manufacturers decided on the IKME.
`
`F1at knitting technology was pre(cid:173)
`sented at IKME to a striking fash(cid:173)
`ion standard. Great creativity and
`care was shown by the flat knit(cid:173)
`ting machine producers, both in
`presenting their machines and
`in
`the
`translation of engineer(cid:173)
`ing possibilities into fashion. The
`machine
`technology presented
`discovered new horizons
`for
`knitwear creation. The exhibition
`was therefore one for the eyes,
`with many colours, shapes and
`structures, wholly in flat knitter
`style.
`
`Complete knitted garments -
`flat knitting's future
`-:_inder this heading, one could sum
`:-.-;, the impression that was to be
`=ained from the leading flat knit-
`machinery manufacturers at
`7',::S - Shima Seiki CT) , Stoll (D),
`:::s:ger (CH) , Universal (D) Protti
`-=- Completely knitted ("Whole(cid:173)
`:::;=-~ent" knit and wear) or fully
`-=::":..;oned products were
`run(cid:173)
`::.:::g on most machines. From the
`:echnological standpoint a new
`sage has been reached in the pro(cid:173)
`duction of complete knitted gar -
`::::ems.
`
`am material saving
`=: appears primarily therefore to be
`::.:::, ~anger a question of yarn mate(cid:173)
`:=:::' sa-ling and making-up opera(cid:173)
`::.-:::::.s ~-~ociem comolere oroducts
`
`Dipl.-lng. Oswald Rieder
`Head of kmtting technology and making-up
`research, ITV Denkendorf (D)
`
`present themselves with a high
`degree of creativity and knitting
`technologically integrated details
`which sometimes cannot be pro(cid:173)
`duced in this way by making-up
`technology Due to this new cre(cid:173)
`ation potential, complete products
`assume an integral character, i.e.
`not composed of individual parts,
`but emerging from a casting
`process. Bowing transitions pro(cid:173)
`duce a harmonic overall impres(cid:173)
`sion which allows the completely
`knitted garment to appear visually
`
`AB one knows, no flat knitting
`machine manufacturers exhibi(cid:173)
`ted at ITMA 2003, as they were
`at a separate, newly created
`exhibition in Milan (I). An entire
`sector of this branch was there(cid:173)
`fore (practically) unrepresen(cid:173)
`ted with the peripheral industry
`in Birmingham.
`The author also attended the
`Milan exhibition with a view to
`producing for
`the reader a
`comprehensive report on the
`situation of the knitwear indus(cid:173)
`try
`In terms of a comprehensive
`report on the situation of the
`knitwear industry; this informa(cid:173)
`tion should not be withheld
`from readers.
`The editorial department.
`
`as a whole - a new creation dimen(cid:173)
`sion for the designer.
`
`Maximum versatility
`and flexibility in knitwear
`production
`F1at knitters live to a great extent
`by the creative design of their
`products. In order to
`translate
`structures and shapes, flat knitting
`machinery manufacturers
`are
`therefore constantly developing
`new functional elements on their
`machines so as to broaden versa(cid:173)
`tility and flexibility; and conse(cid:173)
`quently the freedom to create. The
`following compilation will provide
`a survey on some future-oriented
`developments.
`
`Additional auxiliary beds
`F1at knitting machines with addi(cid:173)
`tional auxiliary beds offer the best •
`prerequisite for producing fully
`fashioned flat knitted products.
`sinker-equipped auxiliary
`With
`beds, normal racking between
`
`_o
`
`Skechers EX1060-p.4
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`
`

`

`:ront and rear needle beds is com(cid:173)
`plemented by additional racking
`on to
`the auxiliary beds. This
`arrangement makes rational nar -
`rowing and extremely sophisticat(cid:173)
`ed transfer patterns possible.
`
`the unit permanently monitor yarn
`tension. If this is too high with high
`yarn consumption or too low with
`low yarn consumption, the knock(cid:173)
`over cam setting is appropriately
`changed.
`
`Shima Seiki presented its further
`developed four-needle bed flat
`knitting machine, which is already
`familiar from ITMA '95. Four nee(cid:173)
`dle beds are the prerequisite for
`producing complete double jersey
`garments and complete fine single
`jersey knits.
`
`Multi-gauge, flexible gauge
`These
`are
`concepts which
`describe flat knitting machine flex-
`
`Compact construction
`Because of the high mass acceler -
`ation, flat knitting machine manu(cid:173)
`facturers are constantly striving to
`minimise carriage weight and
`dimensions. Shima Seiki has now
`achieved a 4.5 inch cam system
`width on its first machines. It has
`been made possible by com(cid:173)
`pound needle
`technology and
`counter-sinkers. Both shorten the
`knitting needle stroke.
`
`ibility
`terms of selectable
`in
`machine gauge. Patterns can be
`arranged in a fabric in a number of
`gauges.
`flexible
`flat
`knitting
`machines
`can
`basically be
`employed in different gauges with(cid:173)
`out needle changes and gauge
`conversion.
`
`Positive yarn feeding
`Yarn quantity regulation is now
`regarded as state of the art at
`Shima Seiki (DSCS) , Stoll (STIXX)
`and Protti (DSCD). With Shima
`Seiki,
`the DSCS
`has been
`equipped with positive yarn feed(cid:173)
`ing.
`
`Motor-driven conveyor rollers sup(cid:173)
`ply a definite quantity of yarn for
`each course. Sensors integrated in
`
`Interesting detail
`developments
`The innovations presented can be
`complemented by a series of inter -
`esting detail developments. They
`can basically be emphasised as
`follows: in the case of flat knitting
`machine producers, all efforts to
`that end are directed to developing
`further versatility and flexibility in
`order to develop the most compre(cid:173)
`hensive and creative construction
`potential for knitters.
`
`Circular knitting machines at
`ITMA
`In the circular knitting sector, ITMA
`presented itself as an exhibition of
`machine optimisation, rationalisa(cid:173)
`tion, quality improvement, increased
`efficiency; flexibility; productivity;
`
`birm ingham 2 Q Q 3
`
`and, quite particularly; the use of
`technological innovations from the
`control technology and data pro(cid:173)
`cessing fields. The wealth of these
`makes it clear that there was no
`focal point development. There
`were product innovations in the
`knitting needle, yarn feeding, knit(cid:173)
`ting structure, knitting product,
`machine control and production
`monitoring areas.
`
`Quieter machines
`Another development stands out:
`circular knitting machines, above
`all those from substantial manufac(cid:173)
`turers, are quieter. This develop(cid:173)
`ment is an extremely important
`aspect in health protection at the
`work station. Furthermore, this has
`yet another advantage. By harmon(cid:173)
`ising motion cycles, moving parts
`and those subject to wear are less
`heavily loaded, ensuring longer
`working life. Interesting develop(cid:173)
`ments, from which stimuli are to be
`expected for the circular knitting
`sector in the near future , are
`described below.
`
`Circular knitted spacer
`fabrics
`is
`The circular knitting sector
`increasingly being developed for
`the versatile and multifunctional
`textile sectors.
`
`This is shown by machine manu(cid:173)
`facturers ' developments towards
`producing knitted spacer fabrics,
`for example by Mayer & Cie (D) ,
`Monarch (GB) or Terrot (D). The
`advantage of these
`three-layer
`knitted structures lies in the fact
`that completely different yarn qual(cid:173)
`ities can be combined with each
`other to achieve specific functions
`in material and gauge terms.
`
`Furthermore, the fabric face can
`be created at will in structural and
`pattern terms by way of electronic
`needle selection. Especially for
`use in the underwear and apparel
`sector, possibilities are offered in
`regard to mechanical damping,
`heat insulation and physiological
`wear comfort.
`
`Circular knitting spacer machines
`with electronic needle selection up
`
`50
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 6/2003
`
`Skechers EX1060-p.5
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`it ma
`birmingham 12 Q Q 3
`
`to E32 gauge (Terrot) were pre(cid:173)
`sented. A very fine spacer fabric
`was presented by Monarch in its
`pattern presentation.
`
`Ultra-fine knitted
`fabrics for maximum
`wear comfort
`This development was introduced
`as early as ITMA '99, when SMC
`(D) presented the highest gauge
`weft knitting machine cylinder for
`an interlock machine at that time
`(E46). Needle thickness is 0.26
`mm This is one of the biggest chal(cid:173)
`lenges facing the needle manufac(cid:173)
`turer. The idea that knitting can still
`be carried on with such knitting
`element dimensions as regards
`yarn loading in the stitch-forming
`process is astonishing.
`
`illtra-fine knitted fabrics have very
`low fabric stiffness, which pro(cid:173)
`duces an extremely pleasant feel
`on the skin when worn. illtra-fine
`Mayer & Cie. or Terrot circular
`knitting machines (E44-E46) are
`already to be found on the market.
`Current developments show that
`the technology for using suitable
`yarns is well under control.
`
`A high degree of flexibility
`with motor-controlled
`yarn feed
`In future, modern machines will
`have central yarn feed servo(cid:173)
`motor drives. Control will be exer(cid:173)
`cised by the machine control unit
`and will make it possible to set
`quality control, which has hither(cid:173)
`to been done manually via
`bevel gears, quickly and repro(cid:173)
`ducibly
`
`This idea was p ioneered by Mayer
`& Cie, which presented this drive
`within the framework of the MCT(cid:173)
`Matic p resentation at ITMA '99.
`
`The number of suppliers
`-
`Fukuhara G) , Monarch, Pai lung
`(ROC) and Terrot (D) - showed that
`central motorised drive is winning
`through. Motor-controlled central
`loop sinking is also finding use
`now by a number of manufactur(cid:173)
`ers, in fact by Mayer & Cie.,
`Monarch and Pai Lung. The devel(cid:173)
`opmem of individually motor driv-
`
`en positive yarn feeders (Orizio (I)
`and Terrot) is new.
`
`Improved handling,
`reduced cleaning expense
`As ever, the efforts of machine
`builders to reduce the manual
`labour cost on circular knitting
`machines are
`endless. Three
`developments by Mayer & Cie. are
`interesting examples: the desire of
`many knitters who have to struggle
`to hook up the fabric tube after a
`fine rib fabric press-off has been
`fulfilled by the development of a
`double
`jersey circular knitting
`machine which automatically starts
`knitting
`again. The machine
`
`restarts by itself: sinkers located
`between
`the cylinder needles
`knock over the stitches by means
`of a horizontal swinging motion.
`
`Plug-in cams, which no longer
`need to be screwed in, were pre(cid:173)
`sented on single jersey circular
`knitting machines for the first time
`by Mayer & Cie. The cams are held
`in place precisely by dowel p ins,
`and can easily be withdrawn and
`exchanged by hand.
`
`Mayer & Cie. are reducing sinker
`ring and needle cylinder trick dirt
`and additive accumulation with the
`aid of a suction unit. Dirt and
`superfluous machine oil are con(cid:173)
`stantly extracted by suction. This
`extends machine cleaning inter -
`vals and reduces oil and dirt strip (cid:173)
`ing.
`
`New knitting needles
`The further development of the
`knitting needle as a central ele(cid:173)
`ment of stitch-forming is currently
`going in the direction of energy
`reduction and increased perform(cid:173)
`ance. With the "litespeed" needle,
`Groz Beckert (D) presented a
`development
`in which needle
`thickness is reduced by small
`amounts in steps along the needle
`length to the effect that there is less
`adhesion between needle and
`trick due to the reduced contact
`area. Up to 1 7% less energy was
`required for needle drive and a
`lower temperature rise of the same
`order of size in a series of test bed
`trials. This development also has
`an effect on
`the
`lubricating
`process: as compared with tradi(cid:173)
`tional
`needle
`construction,
`markedly reduced oil discharge at
`the top of the needle trick was per -
`ceived, indicating more efficient
`lubricant usage, and reducing fab(cid:173)
`ric oil contamination.
`
`Compound needle gentler stitch
`formation
`Another interesting development
`is coming from Mayer & Cie.: a
`compound needle with a hook on
`the end of the tongue was present(cid:173)
`ed for use in single jersey circular
`knitting machines. Needle and
`tongue hooks are aligned counter
`to one another, corresponding with
`each other in the stitch-forming
`operation. Stitches are knocked
`over by sinkers. The manufacturer
`talks of gentler stitch formation, as
`the stitch no longer has to open the
`latch, and does not have to slide
`over
`the
`latch on
`clearing.
`Reduced needle wear and a result(cid:173)
`ant increased needle service life
`are quoted as advantages of this
`development.
`Stimuli for the further development
`of weft knitting technology are
`expected from the innovations pre(cid:173)
`sented. Altogether, weft knitting
`machine manufacturers are mak(cid:173)
`ing an absolutely positive impres(cid:173)
`sion, particularly in terms of inno(cid:173)
`vation capacity and flexibility With ·
`new and sophisticated technical
`developments, they are ready for
`future market demands.
`ONS-No. 3-379 ■
`
`~ -=---•-- --=----! &-- - 7 -
`
`i:>,..~TI---.....:....... !::: l?OI'\~
`
`Skechers EX1060-p.6
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`1 t ma ~
`birmingham J 2 Q Q 3
`
`Warp knitting machines
`
`Flexibility comes before increased speed in the development of warp knitting
`machines. Increased flexibility is achieved by the wide use of electronically
`controlled drives and innovative detailed solutions for yarn feeding and pat(cid:173)
`terning control. Important new developments are servo-controlled string bars
`as patterning bars, carbon guide bars and double-bar warp knitting machines
`for spacer fabrics up to 65 mm in pitch.
`
`guide bar shagging drive and new
`weft in-lay systems for magazine
`weft units.
`
`Rib warp knitting
`In the rib warp knitting machine
`sector, machine speeds have been
`increased, and the range signifi(cid:173)
`cantly extended by a "High(cid:173)
`Distance" rib Raschel machine
`(see below) and a narrow fabric
`rib warp knitting machine.
`
`Yarn feed
`All machine models are offered
`with electronic warp let-off trans(cid:173)
`missions. Yarn feed is very precise,
`and is also sequentially possible.
`Electronically
`controlled
`yarn
`delivery units are offered for elas(cid:173)
`tane processing on all warp knit(cid:173)
`ting machines, including narrow
`fabric warp knitting machines.
`They improve warp knitted fabric
`quality; and facilitate yarn break
`repair. Offered for industrial tex(cid:173)
`tiles are special yarn feeders for
`standing and
`transverse weft,
`enabling yarn counts up to 45000
`dtex to be processed.
`
`The laying speeds of magazine
`weft units have been drastically
`increased by optimisation in the
`weft layer field. The use of a special
`shagging comb, which takes over
`part of the weft layer stroke, offers
`the b iggest performance reserves.
`These are used to some extent for
`increasing warp knitting machine
`performance, and partly for reduc(cid:173)
`ing weft waste by narrower lay
`band widths.
`
`Knitting elements
`Knitting element drives and motion
`cycles are being further opti(cid:173)
`for
`noise
`mised, particularly
`reduction and for extended serv(cid:173)
`ice life. The use of carbon bars for
`the knitting elements is a signifi(cid:173)
`cant milestone. Weight reduction
`offers new prospects of increasing
`machine performance and reduc(cid:173)
`ing noise. The constant length of
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 6/2003
`
`Increasing flexibility by using
`mechatronic drive systems is in the
`forefront of development. A trend
`towards individual motor drives
`and reducing mechanical trans(cid:173)
`mission is also to be noted in the
`case of warp knitting machines.
`Both frequency controlled asyn(cid:173)
`chronous motors and servomotors
`are employed as drives, increasing
`the proportion of complex elec(cid:173)
`tronic controls. Combined with
`detailed technical developments,
`the machines offer significantly
`higher flexibility in patterning and
`pattern rearrangement.
`
`Although production output is not
`the first priority; it has been further
`increased for many machine mod(cid:173)
`els by optimising design details.
`Noise level and maintenance costs
`have been markedly reduced by
`structural optimisation.
`
`New technical developments
`New technical developments are
`demonstrated on all machines. The
`innovations relate
`to
`individual
`component groups, which improve
`individual machine performance
`parameters.
`
`String bars
`The development of string bars is
`opening up new possibilities and
`performance fields in warp knit(cid:173)
`ting. Classic guide bars are no
`longer shagged, but take the form
`of guide bars which can accommo(cid:173)
`date eight string bars in all. Each
`string bar has one or more guides,
`on which the patterning guides are
`arranged. The guides are connect(cid:173)
`ed to the servomotors and the
`pneumatic tensioning device, so
`that 8 patterning guide bars, which
`
`52
`
`I Prof. Dr.-lng. habil. Peter Offermann I
`Institute director of Dresden University of
`Technology Texllle and Clothing Technology,
`Dresden (D)
`
`operate by wires (strings) on an
`offset line, are integrated in one
`guide bar. In addition to drastic
`space saving, reducing the moving
`mass offers big advantages. Highly
`dynamic drives can be used for
`extremely fast shagging motions
`and long shagging distances up to
`180 mm. Higher performance and
`new designs are achievable with
`these machines.
`
`Narrow fabric warp
`knitting
`knitting
`fabric warp
`Narrow
`machines with 24
`linear-drive
`shagging bars, which all operate
`on
`their own offset shagging
`lines, have been increased to
`2000 rpm in speed terms. Other
`innovations include the use of car -
`ban bars, new systems for the
`
`Skechers EX1060-p.7
`Skechers v Nike
`
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`the carbon bar is an important
`advantage however, in that there is
`p ractically no heat expansion with
`temperature variation, making this
`solution of extraordinary interest,
`particularly for high speed wide
`working width and fine gauge
`warp knitting machines.
`
`Knitting element geometry; e.g. the
`guides, can now be optimally
`adapted
`to
`the
`technological
`requirements in conjunction with
`the sinker and needle manufactur -
`ers. It is consequently possible to
`process sensitive filament yarns
`and fine staple fibre yarns effec(cid:173)
`tively
`
`Fabric take-up and
`batching
`Fabric take-up and batching oper(cid:173)
`ations are universally electronically
`controlled or
`regulated. This
`makes the machines more flexible,
`and they produce higher yarn
`qualities. Modified take-up and
`batching is offered, depending on
`the
`requirements
`for
`take-up
`power, friction, gripping and batch
`quality
`
`Product construction
`New engineering solutions for pro(cid:173)
`ducing special products are pre(cid:173)
`sented by the new "HighDistance"
`rib knit Raschel machine. Spacer
`fabrics can be produced in new
`dimensions and qualities with a
`maximum comb plate pitch of 65
`mm. Electronic guide bar control
`p rovides for flexible guide bar
`control and the production of large
`repeat lengths, so that spacer fab(cid:173)
`rics with pile-free spacing, which
`are then used for making-up or as
`"hinges", are possible. The use of
`two warp let-off positions per bar
`and quick comb plate spacing
`adjustment ensures machine effec(cid:173)
`tiveness.
`
`In the narrow fabric warp knitting
`machine field, warp knitted fabrics
`with fringing and part weft inlay are
`used for p rocessing fancy yarns.
`The p art weft ends are cut inside or
`outside the machine. The fringe
`the n forms the ground fabric, while
`he pan ·.ve:t ends p roch.:ce Ihe
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`
`Quality assurance and
`monitoring
`Regulated warp knitting machine
`operating temperatures, particu(cid:173)
`larly gear oil temperature, pattern
`wheel drive oil temperature and
`bar air-cooling, ensure constant
`fabric quality This is especially
`necessary with wide machine
`widths, high machine gauges and
`fast-running machines.
`
`Yarn feed is monitored in the tried
`and
`tested method by
`laser
`(Protechna/D) . Elastane warp knit(cid:173)
`ted fabrics are increasingly moni(cid:173)
`tored by fabric scanners. The sys(cid:173)
`tems can be extended for com(cid:173)
`plete fabric monitoring. The prob(cid:173)
`lem of monitoring patterned fabric
`has not yet been comprehensively
`solved.
`
`All machines can be equipped
`with on-line monitoring. Quality
`adjustment is facilitated via step(cid:173)
`less electronic machine speed
`control.
`
`Flexibility
`Increased flexibility is in the fore(cid:173)
`front of warp knitting machine
`development. Some developments
`already described significantly
`increase warp knitting machine
`flexibility Here too, universal elec(cid:173)
`tronically controlled yarn feeding
`has a positive effect. Controlling
`guide bar shagging via chain links
`is being replaced on a wide front
`by electronically controlled drives.
`Pattern wheels will in future be
`used only on high speed warp
`knitting machines.
`
`Mechatronic systems
`In combination with electronic
`drives and patterning units, mecha(cid:173)
`tronic warp knitting machine sys(cid:173)
`tems offer new possibilities of data
`recording, pattern control and pat(cid:173)
`tern programming. All machines
`have prepared
`interfaces
`for
`machine networking in a company
`network. The pattern preparation
`software, which permits fast pat(cid:173)
`tern preparation and quick pattern
`changing, has been considerably
`extend ed . Complete network solu(cid:173)
`tions are alre ady on offer for cen(cid:173)
`t:ra1 knitting machine control and
`
`FABRIC FORMING
`
`monitoring in the mill. Coupling
`with the internet is therefore possi(cid:173)
`ble in every case.
`
`Noise protection
`Noise protection is of central inter(cid:173)
`est in warp knitting machine devel(cid:173)
`opment and in increasing speed.
`Warp knitting machine builders
`are completely set, as ever, on
`reducing
`noise
`generation.
`Machine vibration, and conse(cid:173)
`quently machine noise levels, has
`been reduced by the targeted
`design of machine bed and sup(cid:173)
`port layout. Noise emission has
`been markedly reduced on high
`speed warp knitting machines in
`this way despite speed increases.
`
`Productivity
`It has been possible to increase
`machine performance further by
`increasing machine rigidity; reduc(cid:173)
`ing the weight of moving parts, and
`optimising drives. High speed
`warp knitting machines attain
`speeds up to 3500 rpm. The
`increased speed of warp knitting
`machines with higher guide bar
`numbers, with patterning units and
`magazine weft units, is striking,
`amounting to 60%.
`
`Thus, 5-bar warp knitting machines
`with electronic guide bar drive for
`example operate up to 1800 rpm,
`while narrow fabric warp knitting
`machines with 24
`linear-drive
`guide bars attain speeds up to
`2000 rpm.
`
`ONS-No. 3-378 ■
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`Skechers EX1060-p.8
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