throbber
We care about your future
`
`Strength and success go hand in hand - and demand the right equip(cid:173)
`ment. Whatever your work involves, we are at your side - with the right
`technology to turn your goals, plans and visions into reality. We can
`supply warp knitting machines for producing every type of product,
`
`from lace, net curtains, clothing and functional textiles to technical
`textiles, as well as a full range of warp preparation systems for weaving
`and warp knitting. We have the expertise to support you in developing
`your own specific solutions. Let us put your ideas in motion!
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.1
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`Skechers EX1043-p.2
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`c.,
`C>
`rl
`\D
`C>
`r:--
`0
`\D
`rl
`LL
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.3
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`Stoll, Reutlingen
`
`-I
`
`Flexibility is the success factor for profitable production. Optimal utilization of ma(cid:173)
`chine capacity is the conditions for this. Low hourly rates and low investment costs
`increase economy. Many years ago, Stoll, Reutlingen (D), was one of the world's first
`manufacturer to devote itself to this topic and became a pioneer with machines mar(cid:173)
`keted under the name Stoll-multi gauges. With the Multi Gauge class, Stoll offers a
`line of machines today that meets all requirements with working widths from 50 to
`96 inches, machines w ith two to si x kni ttin g syst ems and a gauge range from
`E3 to E18.
`
`For knitters, flexibility and pro(cid:173)
`ductivity are decisive for growing
`market shares. The times are long
`past in which a separate machine
`cou ld be provided for each gauge.
`At Stoll there's only one answer
`to the question "Coarse or fine?":
`Both! For the Multi Gauge class
`
`Fully fashion
`sweater knitted on
`CMS 530 multi
`gauge, E3,5.2. Front
`piece in 2x2 rib in
`coarse, 10, 8 or 6
`threads, back piece
`and sleeves in fine,
`4, 3 or 2 threads
`
`(see box) from Stoll can kn it sev(cid:173)
`era l gauges with one and the
`same machine (see table). The ad(cid:173)
`vantage, according to Stoll: the
`machine pool can be reduced,
`however becomes considerably
`more flexible. The capacity of all
`machines
`is optimally utilized,
`and even the shortest develop(cid:173)
`ment times, new trends or sea(cid:173)
`sonal changes are no longer a
`problem.
`This machine class gets its name
`from the Stoll-multi gauges knit(cid:173)
`t ing technique. With it coarse or
`fine stitches can be rea lized in no
`time exactly as desired. It is possi(cid:173)
`ble to knit in the so-called 1x1
`technique or with all needles us-
`
`thicknesses.
`ing different yarn
`The t echnica l cond itions required
`for this are t he need les for fine
`and coarse stitches especially de(cid:173)
`veloped by Stoll, refined stitch
`formation geometry and the Stoll
`holding-down jacks gentle to the
`yarn for high running stability.
`
`ifferenu gauge
`
`The Stoll Mu lti Gauge class also
`demonstrates flexibility in
`the
`fashion sector, i.e. for fabrics with
`different gauges in one piece.
`Here the clear visual grading of
`fine areas - knit with all needles -
`
`Multi-Gauge machines and their gauge ranges•:
`Machine gauge
`Possible gauges E
`(from course gauge ranges, knit w ith the 1x1 technique: knitting on every 2nd needle up to fine
`ranges, knit on all needles)
`3 I 3,5 I 4 I 5
`E2,5.2
`E3,5.2
`3,5 I 41 517
`5 I 7I 8 I 10
`E5.2
`E6.2
`7I8I10I12
`7 I 8 110 112 I 14
`E7.2
`10 112 I 14 I 16 I 18
`E9.2
`' However, all the information provided is strictly dependent upon the respective fabric require(cid:173)
`ments and can vary as well, depending on the yarn qualities used.
`
`text ile network 5/ 2007
`
`21
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.4
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`..;t«f t[~i;'\r 0f!jf;f!t,1,
`:•:❖·:~::::::::;:;:::::: •,-,;;:_!::,:: ::::f:j::f;i".
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`,_.:, : ,;,••···· .• ,: .. : ...... :· •:• ······•::
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`, ..• *
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`' * •* •*.L*
`*•* * * .....
`* * *
`·*•* * '
`** *,
`
`,,. , •
`
`*
`
`Machines of the Multi Gauge class:
`
`CMS 520TC multi gauge: 2 knitting systems, working width:
`50 inches (127 cm), gauges E3,5.2 / 5.2 / 6.2 / 7.2
`
`CMS 530TC multi gauge: 3 knitting systems, working width :
`50 inches (127 cm), gauges E2,5.2 / 3,5.2 / 5.2 / 6.2 / 7.2 / 8.2 / 9.2
`
`CMS 822 multi gauge: 2x2 knitting systems, working width:
`84 inches (213 cm), gauges E2,5.2 / 3,5.2 / 5.2 / 6.2 / 7.2 / 8.2 / 9.2
`
`CMS 922 multi gauge: 2x2 knitting systems, working width:
`96 inches (244 cm), gauge range E3,5.2 / 5.2 / 6.2 / 7.2 / 8.2
`
`CMS 933 multi gauge: 2x3 knitting systems, working width:
`96 inches (244 cm), gauge range E3,5.2 / 5.2 / 6.2 / 7.2 / 8.2
`
`and coarser areas - knit with eve(cid:173)
`ry second needle - can be real(cid:173)
`ized. In the process, it is possible
`to work with a different number
`of threads, i.e. with a different to(cid:173)
`tal thickness. This means the pat(cid:173)
`tern areas can not only be ar(cid:173)
`ranged in various colours or pat(cid:173)
`terns, but also in different gauge
`appearances, with the different
`yarns arranged horizontally and
`vertically as desired.
`Stall's many years of experience
`is also reflected in the program-
`
`ming. The knitting programs can
`be written with the M1 pattern
`preparation software using all
`available functions. Correspond(cid:173)
`ing automatic functions support
`the programmer in the process.
`For example, knitting programs
`can be
`transferred
`from one
`gauge to another at the press of a
`button. Th is means, fo r example,
`that a pattern programmed in the
`gauge ES can be simply and quick(cid:173)
`ly converted for knitting in the 1x1
`technique with the gauge ES.2.
`
`Fully fashion
`sweater with
`French shoulders,
`jacquard motif
`and gored stripes,
`knitted on CMS
`822 multi gauge,
`El.2
`
`Fabric view on
`M1software
`
`.
`
`'
`
`.~ . . . . .. . . 1....
`
`,.
`
`-~:-jj~,-l';•1P\I'i·"•_:•l';-1r "~-l':• 'C • •• _,..._,,r'l' '·l'T'T' ·- •• ,. '"l' ''T''·l'' ,.~' "',.r' ,_,., _,., ,,p_,. ,,,.. .,,, ••• ,,.;-T'!'l'f l'•.-l'~•l'f1'f l'!·;:·,,.., __ ·1'·.--- ~ -..,~~~,;,~-l!(J.·
`•·"•·"•·".:"•·"•·1'•· •·"•·"•·
`.
`l.'1- "-i •·"•· ·"•· •1•·"•· •·"•·
`• ....... , •• .,.,.:ft •• .. ·"··1·· ...... ~-t-;.;. ••
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`~ ... \ t-.; .,._\ ~ ,.!
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`·"'·"' .. "'•'"
`i .... ~ .• . ~.l ~
`:•"'·"'·"' .. ·;
`..... ,,-....... ,.
`~~
`~~
`.~ .. ~ ... . ·•·
`··"··1·· ··"
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`~,~
`~~1~
`.. ...... •· •"
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`·•;"•• •• ••
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`~~.
`~~-
`.~.: ...... ,.;.: .. ~ ..
`..~ ... ,..tt,.:~
`""";'t;i,i
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`,! , • fi!:.:~;~,, t , •
`,iir t· z, ,:. z,;fi .... ~ •
`!~t ,,~- ~I ..
`. :;.,z; :: ... ~ ...
`•· ................ :t-• .,,,,,.
`..... .:;., ., .... ; .... , .... . ( '
`··"•'"•"'··"··ij·"'·"'··"
`•'"• "··"·f ...... "··"•' •.
`·;ft••f 'j•• •· •·"t·"•t·· •. •
`. •· ....... , ... : ................. ,.iti
`. ~! ;· ~- ;·"1 t;~tt fi~lft,. ;·"~::;·":
`,.. •· ,.. ,. . ... ~ ... ,.·N· ,. . ... •1
`, .: 't ... f ~f. •• ~-"~· .
`',.t,, -. , ... _ .. Ji .. ,. :, ,.ti. '
`.. ,. ,, :. .l ,lJ..,l , .. , ... ,.11.: . ..::.t.,.t,,.t,,.1'.;.t.,
`•· •· •· •• •·"•·"•·N·",.·"•·",.·"•·~•-"
`~-" ; · ; · ; ·
`
`,,
`
`., .. , .
`
`• ,,,
`
`;
`
`........ ,.... .....
`
`, ....... •· . ... ..
`
`This can in turn easily be convert(cid:173)
`ed to a program for the gauge
`E6.2. The programmer doesn't
`need to be concerned with transi(cid:173)
`tions between coarse and fine ar(cid:173)
`eas in the pattern, as they are au(cid:173)
`tomatically inserted. In the mod(cid:173)
`ule database of the M1 all struc(cid:173)
`ture modules are also available in
`the "Multi Gauge version''. The re(cid:173)
`sults can be checked immediately
`in the fabric view.
`With the Multi Gauge class, fab·
`rics can be produced in all basic
`knitting modes, in jacquard, struc(cid:173)
`ture, cable and aran patterns. And
`it's especially easy to knit intarsia
`patterns with Stoll machines. Just
`push on the intarsia yarn carriers
`and knit unusual patterns in no
`time - no expensive special ma(cid:173)
`chines, no time-consuming con(cid:173)
`versions.
`Individual sections of the Stoll·
`Multi gauges fabrics can be knit
`in any desired single and double
`jersey knitting techniques. With
`the Stoll intarsia technique, appli·
`cations like pockets, overlapping
`collars or 3-layer fabrics are also
`realized usi ng t he Sto ll-applica·
`t ions knitting technique.
`pr/ car
`
`22
`
`text ile networl< 5/ 2007
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.5
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`MAYER & CIE.
`1\Velve-colour striping with elastomer
`Today's fashion scene is ablaze
`with colour, and stripes are current(cid:173)
`ly right in vogue. To achieve even
`greater flexibility in this field, circu(cid:173)
`lar knitting machines are now avai l(cid:173)
`able which are capable of knitting
`stripes in up to twelve colours. The
`technology involved here is gen(cid:173)
`erally highly complex, with the in(cid:173)
`evitable consequence of greater
`susceptibility to faults. Also when
`used in conjunction with elastomer
`yarns, multi-coloured stripes can be
`fraught with problems.
`Mayer & Cie. in Albstadt (D), one of
`the world's leading circular knitting
`machine manufacturers, has taken
`up this challenge with a new devel(cid:173)
`opment based on the Relanit 1.6 R
`circular knitting machine. The rela(cid:173)
`tive movement technology used
`in this machine offers the decisive
`benefit of fewer deflection points:
`The yarn is subjected to lower ten(cid:173)
`sion and benefits from far gentler
`treatment
`than on convention(cid:173)
`al machines. This machine also af(cid:173)
`fords the operator a clear view and
`easy accessibility to the needle
`bed - a decisive advantage when
`working with stripes.
`The predecessor machine Relanit
`1.6 R with five colour striping at
`each feeder or ten colour stripes
`over two feeders achieved major
`market success - largely as a re(cid:173)
`sult of its patented striping attach(cid:173)
`ments. When upgrading to six col(cid:173)
`ours with each feeder or twelve
`colour striping over two feeders,
`the technological benefits of this
`development are brought particu(cid:173)
`larly to bear. Customarily, one strip(cid:173)
`ing finger is occupied in perform(cid:173)
`ing the stripe-out function. Mayer &
`Cie. makes use of all six striping fin(cid:173)
`gers for the colours. The stripe-out
`function takes up one functioning
`section within the striping attach(cid:173)
`ment. When striping over two feed(cid:173)
`ers, special thread clamps take care
`of reliable transfer of the t hread
`from one feeder to the next.
`Another special feature is the use
`of just six magnets for colour selec(cid:173)
`tion and one magnet for control of
`
`the stripe-out function. These oper(cid:173)
`ate all the striping attachments at
`the machine. In the case of a ma(cid:173)
`chine with a 34" diameter and 54
`feeders, a total of 324 striping fin(cid:173)
`gers are reliably and safely control(cid:173)
`led by these seven magnets.
`The special design also permits the
`trouble-free use of elastomer yarns
`with six or twelve colours. In the
`case of plain single jersey, the elas(cid:173)
`tomer thread is fed from the front
`over the yarn feeder edge. When
`kn itting patterns with needle se(cid:173)
`lection, guidance of the elastane
`t hread over the yarn feeder plate is
`vibration-free, so permitting multi(cid:173)
`ple colour stripes to also be reliably
`processed in conjunction with elas(cid:173)
`tomer threads.
`Mayer & Cie. has also further de(cid:173)
`veloped its machine software to
`simplify the process of program(cid:173)
`ming
`both
`the width and
`number
`of
`stripes.
`The
`Relanit1.6 R of(cid:173)
`fers the whole
`range of ap(cid:173)
`plications and
`is available in
`26", 30" and
`34" with gaug(cid:173)
`es E12 to E28.
`cor
`
`<1i u
`
`oil
`~ ro
`2
`~ ..c
`
`0..
`
`Gentle feed of the
`e/astane thread
`
`The Relanit 1.6 R is
`capable of knit(cid:173)
`ting twelve-co/our
`stripes
`
`In brief
`Joint activities for Silpure:
`Thomson Research Associates,
`Toronto (CAN), and Huntsman
`Text ile Effects, Basel (CH), an(cid:173)
`nounced t hat the two compa(cid:173)
`nies have agreed to work to(cid:173)
`gether in developing and mar(cid:173)
`keting Thomson's Silpure anti(cid:173)
`bacterial technology.
`Silpure, launched in 2005, uti(cid:173)
`lizes the natural characteristics
`of silver to limit the growth of
`odour-causing bacteria.
`Thomson Research Associates
`sells its Silpure brand directly
`and through distributors world(cid:173)
`wide to over 200 companies in
`more than 40 countries. Hunts(cid:173)
`man is a global manufacturer
`and marketer of differentiated
`chemicals, among others for
`textiles and footwear.
`cor
`
`textile network 5/ 2007
`
`23
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.6
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`SHIMA SEIKI
`
`cl!I knittrng machines
`
`SIG123 SV with
`WideGauge tech(cid:173)
`nique
`
`SPF-W is capable
`of knitting pairs
`of five-toe socks
`
`itr».:;> Jf.c'f • • -·
`
`Flat knitting ma(cid:173)
`ch ines manufac(cid:173)
`turer Shima Seiki,
`Wakayama
`(J),
`presented
`the
`new SSG and
`SIG machines
`with
`Wide(cid:173)
`Gauge variable
`gauge technolo(cid:173)
`gy. Special needles
`allow a wide range of
`production possibilities,
`from tighter, finer-gauge
`fabrics using all-needle knit(cid:173)
`ting, to more airy, lower-gauge fab(cid:173)
`rics using half-gauge technique. In
`addition, SIG has superior intarsia
`capability with capacity for up to 30
`intarsia ca rriers, says the company.
`The new SPF-W is capable of knit(cid:173)
`ting five-toe socks for both left and
`right feet on one machine, whereas
`the previous SPF required two ma(cid:173)
`chines.
`car
`
`:;, ·.,
`Vl
`ro
`E
`:.c
`Vl
`;,;
`8
`0
`..c
`0..
`
`FREUDENBERG EVOLON
`
`Evolon can be
`used for outdoor
`and indoor deco(cid:173)
`ration
`
`Performance textile manufacturer
`Freudenberg Evolon, Colmar (F),
`launches
`its nonwoven
`fabric
`
`In brief
`"Position in all market seg·
`ments sustained": For 2006,
`nonwoven producer Sandler AG,
`Schwarzenbach/Saale (D), an(cid:173)
`nounced a turnover of EUR 112m
`(2005: EUR 113m) and said, that
`it was able "to successfully sus(cid:173)
`tain its position in all market
`segments:' In
`its
`traditional
`market segment "furniture and
`mattresses" the company took
`advantage of the opening of
`the boarders to the Eastern Eu(cid:173)
`ropean neighbouring countries
`during the last years, said Sand(cid:173)
`ler.
`According to the company the
`continuously growing market of
`disposable wipes (wet and dry)
`has become a main focus of its
`entire production range. There(cid:173)
`fore, the company is going to in(cid:173)
`vest approx. EUR 20m in a sec(cid:173)
`ond high performance produc(cid:173)
`tion line for substrates, which
`are mainly converted into wet
`wipes.
`Special nonwovens for the au(cid:173)
`tomotive industry also gain in
`importance, explained the com(cid:173)
`pany. Sound absorbing nonwo(cid:173)
`vens made of polyester are in(cid:173)
`creasingly established as ma(cid:173)
`terial for interior applications
`in vehicles. Innovative products
`and procedures like elastic non(cid:173)
`wovens or fine fibre nonwovens
`are permanently developed for
`existing as well as for new mar(cid:173)
`ket segments, stated Sandler.
`In 2006 the company employed
`460 people in its production site
`sf
`in Schwarzenbach.
`
`Evolon for digital printing. Ac(cid:173)
`cording to the company the me(cid:173)
`dia delivers new benefits above
`certain other available
`substrates, by offer(cid:173)
`ing the ability of dual(cid:173)
`sided printing and the
`compatibility with an
`array of different dig(cid:173)
`ital printing technolo(cid:173)
`gies and inks. In addi(cid:173)
`tion to inkjet printing
`using water-based, sol(cid:173)
`vent, eco-solvent and
`UV-cured
`inks, Evolon
`ensures "high perform(cid:173)
`ance"
`in
`t ransfer/di(cid:173)
`rect sublimation appli(cid:173)
`cations, says Freuden(cid:173)
`berg Evolon.
`car
`
`I !
`
`24
`
`textile network 5/ 2007
`
`Evoluti011
`& lnspir0~·
`
`Skechers EX1043-p.7
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

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