No.4
`
`November 1999
`
`Frankfurt· Istanbul. Milan . New York . Shanghai
`
`Make the new ,ni/lennium brighter
`with Colors by Ciba.
`
`Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.
`
`Colors
`
`Skechers EX1042-p.1
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`Knitting
`
`sinker in stitch transfer by moving be(cid:173)
`yond the hook. Eliminating the lateral
`for precise
`transfer spring provides
`stitch centering , even during transfer op-
`
`erations. It can have a high hook with
`relatively large yarn space, making it
`suitable for use with multi-gauge knitted
`fabrics.
`
`Flat knitting machines knit
`technical textiles
`
`It is widely known that computer-control(cid:173)
`led CMS flat knitting machines produce
`fashion knitwear and are able to cope
`with complex techniques such as colo r
`jacquard, cable structures and intarsia.
`technical concept and
`However, the
`comprehensive software of the latest
`generation of flat knitting machines by
`Stoll GmbH , Reutlingen/Germany, open
`up a wider and extremely interesting
`production scope .
`The CMS 340 knit and wear fully auto(cid:173)
`matically produces shape-knitted panels
`and
`ready-to-wear knitted garments,
`eliminating the need for any further man(cid:173)
`ual making-up processes. The previous
`manual making-up stages : cutting , sew(cid:173)
`ing, binding off, setting buttonholes etc.
`are now performed by the CMS flat knit(cid:173)
`ting machine.
`CMS flat kn itting machines are also able
`to manufacture stitch accumulations,
`use the wedge technique, fabric on fab(cid:173)
`ric, inlay and shot technique, as well as
`using multi-gauges techniques and pro(cid:173)
`ducing all forms of multi-dimensional
`fabrics .
`Another field of application fo r flat knit(cid:173)
`ting
`technology of major significance
`nowadays is that of "Technical knitted
`fabrics". From the beginning of the 80s,
`this sector has gained steadily in impor(cid:173)
`tance to become a substantial growth
`market. The innovative engineering and
`unique design features of the CMS, such
`as controlled movable sinkers, open up
`outstanding scope for the manufacture
`of technical knitted fabrics and extreme(cid:173)
`ly versatile solutions in the field of techni(cid:173)
`cal textiles.
`For the production of technical knitted
`fabrics , CMS flat knitting machines are
`available with a needle area of up to
`2440 mm . Depending on the gauge of
`between 3 and 18 n.p.i ., this means up
`to 1,728 needles per needle bed. With
`individual electronic selection , each nee(cid:173)
`dle is able to independently start, knit or
`transfer stitches.
`Productivity is enhanced by the action of
`the carriage, which moves only over the
`needle area required for the actual knit(cid:173)
`ting process, processing the yarn or oth(cid:173)
`er material fed by the yarn feeders to the
`selected needles. In conjunction with
`narrowing and widening of stitches, this
`technique permits the production of knit-
`
`292 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL
`
`ted articles in any required shape and
`with welt. The racking device permits the
`rows of needles to be shifted relative to
`each other by up to 1 0 cm for stitch
`crossover and laying of threads.
`The product range of Stoll encompasses
`computer-controlled, fu lly automatically
`operating flat knitting machin es with be(cid:173)
`tween two and six knitting systems . The
`maximum knitting output at 1.2 m/s is up
`to approx. 8,000 stitches/s in the six(cid:173)
`system machine. A special featu re of the
`CMS flat kn itting machine are controlled
`movable sinkers for each row of nee(cid:173)
`dles. These are able to hold down the
`formation
`loops, so permitting stitch
`without fabric takedown . This facility also
`opens up scope for the production of
`three-dimensional techn ical knitted fab(cid:173)
`rics using a wide range of materials.
`
`Technical knitted products
`As well as on flat knitting machines,
`nowadays technical textiles are also pro(cid:173)
`duced on warp and circular knitting ma(cid:173)
`chines. Using different operating meth(cid:173)
`ods, these fundamentally different ma(cid:173)
`chine types are capable of producing
`varying types of technical knitted struc(cid:173)
`tures with different characteristics for
`their own specific fields of application.
`Fields of application for "technical kn itted
`fabrics" are extremely comprehensive
`and include , for instance : industry, aero(cid:173)
`space and automotive engineering , ge(cid:173)
`ology, medicine, protective clothing ,
`technical home textiles.
`
`Manufacture/processing of knitted
`fabrics on flat knitting machines
`Knitted fabrics produced on flat knitting
`machines offer very good draping capa(cid:173)
`bilities. This is due on the one hand to
`the stitch-forming principle used to pro-
`
`Fig. 1 Inlay technique, demonstrated by an in(cid:173)
`laid wire cable
`
`duce flat knitted fabrics. A stitch com(cid:173)
`prises thread laid in a ring formation
`which is held by the surrounding stitch(cid:173)
`es. This characteristic permits the fabric
`to be stretched in any direction. Another
`facility of th is technique is that each indi(cid:173)
`vidual stitch or group of stitches can be
`formed in varying sizes, so allowing a
`product to be knitted selectively to ad(cid:173)
`dress a particu lar elasticity or other char(cid:173)
`acteristic requi rement. Even fabrics pro(cid:173)
`duced using high-strength materials will
`always retain this elastic property.
`As a result, it is clear that in a fabric with
`no weft or inlay thread in bonded fiber
`materials, it will never be possible to
`achieve the highest modulus of elastici(cid:173)
`ty . Knitted fabrics are accordingly also
`characterized by their high stretch prop(cid:173)
`erties, i.e. low tensile strength and re(cid:173)
`sulting higher absorption of energy in
`case of excess strain . The stretch prop(cid:173)
`erties of the fabric are such that they
`even permit, in conjunction with thermo(cid:173)
`plastics, subsequent deformation or
`deep drawing within certain limits.
`
`Combined knitted fabric
`constructions and knitted fabric
`reinforcement
`The stretch properties of knitted fabrics
`can be easily influenced or even elimi(cid:173)
`nated in the x direction. To achieve this
`effect, weft threads are laid over the last
`knitted course. These weft or
`filler
`threads lie in the X direction , so prevent(cid:173)
`ing the fabric from being stretched in this
`direction . Using this technique, a high
`degree of
`tensile strength can be
`achieved in bonded fiber fabric. The
`in(cid:173)
`number of weft threads can be
`creased so that only a minimal section of
`the knitted fabric encloses the packages
`of weft threads.
`By providing for a controlled, variable
`progression of the yarn carrier laying the
`weft thread, it is possible to alternate be(cid:173)
`tween areas with weft threads and those
`without also in the x direction (lntarsia
`principle) . In addition , the weft thread
`from one
`technique can be varied
`course to the next, or areas with a high
`proportion of weft threads can be com(cid:173)
`bined with a lower proportion of weft
`threads (Fig .1).
`Different materials can be combined us(cid:173)
`ing different yarn feeders, and the knit(cid:173)
`ted and reinforced areas themselves
`varied in shape. The weft thread can , for
`example, be used as a planned rein(cid:173)
`forcement in tapes or drive belts.
`
`Shaped articles and multi(cid:173)
`dimensional knitted fabrics
`The capacity for shaped and multi-di(cid:173)
`mensional knitting with welt is one of the
`main benefits to be gained from the flat
`
`Volume 5, November 1999
`
`Skechers EX1042-p.2
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`knitting machine. A fabric panel can be
`widened by adding stitches (needles) at
`the selvedge. It is narrowed by kn itting
`with fewer needles and transferring the
`stitches to needles positioned further to(cid:173)
`wards the inside of the fabric. By knit(cid:173)
`ti ng, narrowing , widening and using the
`wedge technique, it is possible to pro(cid:173)
`duce two or three-dimensional shapes.
`In order to produce three-dimensional
`fabrics on a flat knitting machine, further
`knitting processes are required. If, for
`example, the needles periodically knit
`additional stitches only in the central
`area of a knitted fabric, while the nee(cid:173)
`dles at the two selvedges do not knit, a
`raised, i.e. three-dimensional area is
`created in the center. This type of addi(cid:173)
`ional knitted area can also be produced
`at the selvedge by, if we stick to this ex(cid:173)
`ampl e, having the selvedge needles knit
`additional stitches while the needles in
`e center are idle.
`Convex or concave shapes are achieved
`oy knitting ellipse-shaped segments us(cid:173)
`·ng the wedge techn ique, whereby a
`considerably greater number of stitches
`,s knitted in the center than at the edge
`of the segments. Attention must be paid
`ere to ensure that the initial courses
`and end courses of each segment are
`inked to each other by a row of stitches
`ig. 2) .
`Ii several of these segments are pro(cid:173)
`uced, for example, a knitted half-
`sphere is produced . If this is followed by
`itti ng a tube using the starting course
`th e first segment and the end course
`the last segment, a seamless knitted
`stocking is obtained of the type used , for
`example, for prostheses.
`is also possible to form rectangular
`itted corners . The CMS flat knitting
`achine is practically even capable of
`oroduci ng knitted boxes. If the selvedge
`eedles remain periodically idle at the
`edge of a knitted fabric, and if they then
`gradually begin to knit again , a corner
`shape is formed in the fabric . If fou r of
`ese corn ers are created in the fabric, a
`
`box is produced . This technique is used,
`for example, in deep-drawn articles with
`edges .
`
`Wide spectrum of applications
`through different materials
`Stoll CMS flat knitting machines for tech(cid:173)
`nical knitted
`fabrics are capable of
`processing , depending on their field of
`application : elastomers, thermoplastics,
`glass and ceramic fibers , carbon fibers ,
`metal wires, natural fibers and other syn(cid:173)
`thetic yarns, also in composite form.
`- Metal knitted fabrics
`New fields of application for metal knit(cid:173)
`ted fabrics have been opened up over
`the past two decades , for example with
`catalytic converters and filters , but also
`in the fields of heating engineering . The
`oil industry, glass and ceramic manufac(cid:173)
`ture, the automotive engineering indus(cid:173)
`try all purchase metal knitted fabrics and
`articles with special purpose-oriented
`
`Fig. 2 Structure for protection helmet, made of
`aramid and glass fibers
`
`Fig. 3 Wire knit fabrics , made of various metallic
`materials and wire versions
`
`Knitting
`
`characteristics (Fig . 3) .
`All metal threads can be processed, in(cid:173)
`cluding precious metals
`in different
`thickness - also in metal alloys. Filament
`metal
`threads, stable
`fiber metal
`threads, wrapped materials
`including
`also synthetic monofilaments. Wire knit(cid:173)
`ted fabrics used for the filtration , heating
`or transformation of different media, cat(cid:173)
`alytic filters for distillation plants and gas
`washing plants as demisters.
`All the metal knitted fabrics produced for
`these purposes are knitted to the re(cid:173)
`quired shape in one piece with partial
`openings and reinforcements. This not
`only saves time, it also reduces cutting
`waste , processing requirements , materi(cid:173)
`al input and scrap.
`- Medical technology
`In the field of medical technology, fully
`fashioned support and compression
`bandages can be produced for use in
`the medical or sports sector.
`Complex shaped bandages are knitted
`in accordance with all cu rrently applica(cid:173)
`ble standards in a single piece using the
`CMS flat knitting machine. The knitting
`process can also be designed to inte(cid:173)
`grate special medically required charac(cid:173)
`teristics. In order to stabilize a knee joint,
`for example, openings are knitted into
`knee bandages to permit the insertion of
`silicone rings . Another example here are
`leg compression bandages, which can
`be individually produced on CMS flat
`knitting machines with the compression
`point located in a specific area. This can
`be achieved both by knitting the same
`material with a different stitch density, or
`by changing the material used during
`production (Fig . 4).
`- Composite material products
`The manufacture of compos ite material
`products can be highly labor-intensive in
`some cases. Individual plies have to be
`cut to size on a ply-by-ply basis , carefully
`inserted in the press, fi xed and then built
`up. Often special press moulds are re(cid:173)
`quired which are high ly labor-intensive
`
`+,i~
`
`Fiber Table
`Lyocell Fibers
`
`German/English OM 15,- plus postage
`Institute for Textile Technology,
`Aachen/Germany
`
`Orders: Editorial Department
`Chemical Fibers International
`Mainzer Land str. 251 , D-60326 Frankfurt/Main
`Fax : +49-69-7595 1390
`
`White Scale
`for the Calibration of Spectral Photometers
`Advantages, you help
`Same basic wh ite and constant white degrees in each level of
`al l white scales
`Measuring data of Spectral Photometer are documented in the
`certificate
`Reflectance values of the fluorescent white scale levels are fol·
`lowed back to those of the NRCC
`• Specification of all reflection factors in the spectral region 360-
`700 nm
`Co-operation of Textilforschungsinstitut Thueringen-Vogtland
`e.V. (TITV) and Ciba Special Chemicals.
`Order for White Scale: TITV, Zeulenrodaer Str. 42,
`D-07973 Greiz, Phone: +49 3661 6110, Fax +49 3661 611 222
`
`M ELLIAHO INTERNATIONAL 293
`
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`199
`
`Skechers EX1042-p.3
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`mg
`
`and expensive to produce in the first
`place.
`Modern flat knitting technology offers a
`number of clear production advantages
`in th is field, which cannot be realized us(cid:173)
`ing different textile-related manufactur(cid:173)
`ing processes. Highly complex compo(cid:173)
`nents, for instance, can be three-dimen(cid:173)
`sionally knitted in a single work process
`(Fig . 5).
`Other highly complex components made
`of composite materials can also be man(cid:173)
`ufactured in a single work process - for
`example three-dimensional spherically
`cu rved articles featuring all the neces(cid:173)
`sary reinforcement areas and openings.
`An
`intrinsically pre-stabilized semi-fin(cid:173)
`ished article with extremely good drap(cid:173)
`ing and deep-drawing capability
`is
`achieved which can be inserted in a
`fo rming tool in one or more layers with(cid:173)
`out major handling problems and resin(cid:173)
`treated. Thermoplastics can be integrat(cid:173)
`ed in the form of threads during the knit(cid:173)
`ting process. The facility for pre-stabili(cid:173)
`zation offers the advantage that addi (cid:173)
`tional fi xing points are no longer neces(cid:173)
`sary and no making-up processes are
`requ ired .
`
`- Upholstery fabrics and seat covers
`for the automotive and furniture
`industry
`Seats designed according to ergonomic
`findings for the automotive and furniture
`industry call for complex and costly up(cid:173)
`holstery techniques. A higher proportion
`of wool is required in the seat surface
`area, for instance, in order to create opti(cid:173)
`mum material breathing properties and
`dissipation of body moisture. The sides,
`in contrast, can be produced using yarns
`with different properties or colors. In ad(cid:173)
`dition , in automobile seat covers, the
`safety-relevant functionality of the side
`back has to be taken into consideration.
`This calls for elaborate manufacturing
`techniques, complex sewing processes
`and cutting waste.
`If we make use of three-dimensional
`knitting techniques as an alternative , it is
`possible instead to produce seat covers
`
`processing and draping properties. On
`principle, all known knitting techniques
`and patterns, including a woven look,
`and any type of material can be integrat(cid:173)
`ed into the seat covers.
`Wear resistance , stretch properties or
`sideback functions in predetermined lo(cid:173)
`cations are planned into the fabric, re(cid:173)
`taining and reinforcing elements are
`knitted in . The production process itself
`is so fle xible that the design , shape and
`color as well as the pattern of the seat
`cover can be changed as required from
`one article to the next. It is also possible
`to integrate seat heating systems in con(cid:173)
`ductive materials into car seat covers
`using laying or knitting techniques. Us(cid:173)
`ing the online link between the flat knit(cid:173)
`ting machines and the patterning com(cid:173)
`puter, it is even possible to automatically
`produce individual customer patterns in
`batch sizes as small as 1.
`
`Project processing of technical
`knitted articles and application
`advice
`The fields of application for technical tex(cid:173)
`tiles produced using Stoll CMS flat knit(cid:173)
`ting machines are varied , and new appli(cid:173)
`cations are being developed all the time.
`CMS flat knitting machines are capable of
`producing finished , geometrically com(cid:173)
`plex two and three-dimensional parts pre(cid:173)
`cisely in any requi red shape and with the
`required technical characteristics.
`
`Fig. 4 Knee brace with integrated pockets for
`soft pads and reinforcement splints
`
`Fig . 5
`Knitted to shape tube connection of glass fibers
`
`in any required form on the CMS flat
`knitting machine , for example producing
`convex areas by joining segments using
`the wedge technique. The fitted covers
`emerge from the machine with excellent
`
`Karl Mayer: Kalitherm patent
`ly, Spain and Sweden , furthe rmore the
`On 17th June, 1999 Karl Mayer Malimo
`foreign application
`for USA, Japan ,
`GmbH , Chemnitz, Germany acquired
`South Korea and Brazil.
`the know-how for the production of non(cid:173)
`Having acquired
`this know-how and
`woven fabrics based on the Kunit pro(cid:173)
`the respective protection rights, Karl
`cess by the contract of know-how, pat(cid:173)
`Mayer Malimo is able to offer an effec(cid:173)
`ent and trademarks. By conclusion of
`tive alternative for the substitution of
`the contract, the rights for the German
`foamed material as backing upholstery
`patent applications DE 195 34 252 of
`material. The measures for the suc(cid:173)
`18th September 1995 and DE 196 04
`cessful translation of the results in the
`726 have been acquired as well as the
`market out of the EU project, called "re(cid:173)
`applications with the European patent
`cyclable upholstery fabrics" have been
`office comprising the protection rights
`included.
`for Germany, France, Great Britain , lta-
`
`The only
`specialist
`publication
`in its field
`
`Narrow Fabric and Braiding Industry MELLIANo
`
`In three languages:
`English, German, Spanish
`
`Published quarterly
`in March, May, August and November
`
`Annual subscription DM 93,- {Germany)
`DM 98,- {Rest of the World)
`Incl. postage
`
`TEXTILBERICHTE GMBH
`D-60264 Frankfurt am Main
`Phone: 069- 75 95 -16 52
`Fax:
`069 - 7595-1650
`
`294 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL
`
`Volume 5, November 1999
`
`Skechers EX1042-p.4
`Skechers v Nike
`
`