TERNATI
`TEXTILE
`,.___. QD[L[LrnLJ□
`
`SPECIAL
`
`ITMA SURVEY:
`THE EUROPEAN
`TEXTILE INDUSTRY'S
`EXPECTATIONS
`
`SUCCESSFUL WOOL
`SPINNER
`
`I NEEDLEPUNCHED
`UPHOLSTERY
`FABRICS
`
`IMPROVED
`MIGRATION IN
`WOOL DYEINGS
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.1
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`IMPRESSUM
`
`CONTENTS
`
`32 Optimised processing
`cycles
`Sanjiv Khandelwal
`
`YARNFGRMNG
`
`34
`
`Biotextiles:
`pipe dream or
`reality?
`Dr. rer.nat. Ulrich Girrbach
`
`37
`
`Long-staple compact
`yarn pioneers
`Jurg Rupp
`
`40
`
`Foreign matter detection
`system
`Jurg Rupp
`
`43
`
`Copper wires
`for textiles
`Jurg Rupp
`
`Publishing House:
`ITS Publishing
`International Textile Service
`Univer-Haus, Kesslerstrasse 9
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich/Switzerland
`Telephone: ++41-1-738 48 00
`Telefax:
`++41-1-738 48 30
`internet:
`http://www.its-publishing.com
`its@its-publishing.com
`e-mail:
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`: •
`..J- • . ~ • 1 ~1-
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`•
`
`~
`
`- .... ·:
`
`• L
`
`8
`
`Challenge
`for the European
`textile industry
`Jurg Rupp
`
`Publisher:
`Andreas A. Keller
`
`Editor-in-Chief:
`Jurg Rupp
`
`Deputy Editor-in-Chief:
`Dipl.-lng. Andrea Bohringer
`(Finishing branch)
`
`Mac Isaacs
`(USA editor)
`
`Advertising Manager:
`Peter M. Frei
`
`Advisory Board:
`Prof. Dr. Gerhard Egbers
`Prof. Dr. Joachim Hilden
`
`Contributing editors:
`Dr. -lng. Peter Bottcher (D)
`Ji Guo Biao (PRC)
`Prof. Dr. -lng. Heinrich Planck (D)
`Freddy Gustavo Rewald (BRA)
`Prof. Dr. Anton Schenek (D)
`Prof. Dr. Roshan Shishoo (S)
`Gail Taylor (HK/PRC)
`Howard L. Thomas, jr. Ph.D. (USA)
`S. Vishwanath (IN D)
`Derek T. Ward (GB)
`
`Official Membership Magazine of:
`The Textile Institute
`GB-Manchester
`
`Printing office:
`NZZ Fretz AG
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich
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`Every two months. By subscription, see separate
`order card. With the acceptance of ori ginal
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`to publish and translate is transferred to ITS
`Publishing. Reprinting or photomechanical
`reproduction, computer memorisation and
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`wholly or in part, is permissible only with the
`approval of the publishing house.
`No liability is accepted for unsolicited
`manuscripts sent in.
`
`© Copyright 2003 by ITS Publishing,
`CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich, Switzerland.
`
`12
`
`Europe's yes
`to ITMA 2003
`Jurg Rupp
`
`FORUM
`
`24
`
`The vicious circle
`of over-capacity
`Heinz Bachmann
`
`29
`
`Strengthened
`ITEMA Group
`Jurg Ru pp
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.2
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`INTERNATIONAL
`-
`-
`-
`-
`
`W~ifrn1Y□~
`
`INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE BULLETIN • 2ND ISSUE 2003 - VOLUME 49
`
`ITS-Charts:
`new products from the
`chemical industry
`
`, ·i
`
`r ,
`
`.-
`
`•
`
`Im
`
`75
`
`r r 1
`
`,
`- \
`
`THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE
`
`News from the Textile Institute
`
`77
`
`~ NEWSLETTER
`
`The electronic ITS newsletter
`will inform you via its worldwide
`Textile News Network (TNN),
`every two weeks directly to your
`mailbox! Send an e-mail to
`its@its-publishing.com and kindly
`let us have your (personal) e-mail
`and postal address.
`
`60
`
`I I DYEING/PRINTING
`Improved wool dye
`migration
`Dr. Meritxell Marti
`S. Serra
`A. de la Mazza
`J.L. Parra
`L. Codech
`
`64
`
`Inkjet printing
`pretreatment
`Dr. Ulrike Hees
`Mike Freche
`Dr. Michael Kluge
`Dr. John Provost
`Dr. Jurgen Weiser
`
`FABRIC FORMING
`
`46
`
`The future
`of knitwear
`Derek T. Ward
`
`■
`
`The Turkish home textiles
`industry
`Prof. Dr. Emel Onder
`Prof. Dr. Fatma Kalaoglu
`
`-5
`
`1
`
`on
`
`FINISHING
`
`68
`
`Textile weighting
`and stiffening
`finishing
`Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Schinder
`Prof. Dr. Peter Hauser
`
`54
`
`58
`
`Advantages of needled
`woven fabrics
`Jurgen M. Strassner
`Gustav Wizemann
`
`Lower energy
`consumption air jet
`weaving machines
`Alex Landau
`
`72
`
`74
`
`Advantages of infra-red
`predryers
`Jeffrey T. Dixon
`
`Improved elastic fabric
`treatment
`Prof. Dr. Joachim Hilden
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.3
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`The future of knitting
`
`Speaking at a knitting congress held in Manchester (GB), a senior knitwear
`technologist from one of the world's most famous retail organisations out(cid:173)
`lined to an audience of nearly 200 international delegates how the pace of
`change is increasing, and how many new elements are having an impact on
`knitting innovation.
`
`factors
`the main
`mitment are
`required for working in the spin(cid:173)
`ning industry'' He claimed these
`factors are the basis of a craft inher -
`ited from the culture and tradition of
`the Biella area of Italy Giving two
`examples of the effect on knitwear
`design, he said "Cashwool", devel(cid:173)
`oped in the l 980's at a time when
`the market wanted something dif(cid:173)
`ferent from fluffy lambswool, offers
`almost limitless versatility Available
`in melange, solid and mouline
`and machine-washable
`colours
`is used for
`forms, "Cashwool"
`men's and women's classic, per(cid:173)
`formance knitwear and may even
`be used with other types of yarn.
`The second example given was
`Shamir ultrafine cashmere yarns.
`These were created in response to
`an almost niche market request and
`rescued the appeal of cashmere at
`a time when conventional yarns of
`this type appeared to be suffering a
`decline in quality
`
`Innovative, high performance,
`high tech
`In a paper reviewing recent devel(cid:173)
`opments
`in
`yarn
`technology;
`Antonino Piccolini, Fil Man Made
`Group (I), suggested yarns may be
`classified into three groups: innova(cid:173)
`tive, high performance, and high
`tech items. He said, however, these
`terms are often the cause of confu(cid:173)
`sion and misunderstanding.
`He summarised the many ways of
`developing innovative yarns basi(cid:173)
`cally into six routes, although com(cid:173)
`binations of the six routes can also
`be used.
`
`- By using a fibre based on a new
`polymer
`- or a fibre produced by chemical
`modification
`- or a new fibre produced by
`cross-section modification
`- or a fibre with modified physical
`and mechanical features
`- or by blending two or more
`fibres
`- or a yarn produced by new spin(cid:173)
`ning techniques.
`
`The congress was organised by the
`William Lee Innovation Centre. The
`newly formed centre has been cre(cid:173)
`ated within UMIST to bring together
`multi-disciplinary expertise to form
`what is claimed to be Europe's first
`research, technology; translation and
`skills group focussing specifically
`on fibre architecture. The event drew
`41 speakers from the global indus(cid:173)
`try and various academic bodies.
`
`Mervyn Davies (Fig. 1), Marks &
`Spencer (GB), said retail customers
`have never demanded more than
`they do today; and their require(cid:173)
`ments have never been so diverse.
`He listed present day requirements,
`together with recent innovations, as
`including: garments that keep you
`safe; products that make you feel
`better; products that are more com(cid:173)
`fortable, especially if you are par(cid:173)
`ticularly sensitive; garments that fit
`better (virtually bespoke clothing);
`garments that make you more com(cid:173)
`fortable by heating up or cooling
`down; products that ease communi(cid:173)
`cation, even incorporating mobile
`phones; more
`environmentally
`friendly garments in terms of man(cid:173)
`ufacture and disposal; those meet(cid:173)
`ing the demands of a specific use,
`such as travel; new fibres derived
`from corn starch or even wool; and
`wool
`reconstituted
`to produce
`microfibres or films possessing all
`the natural attributes of wool - such
`as antibacterial, flame resistant per -
`formance and breathability
`
`Mr Davies said new knitting machin(cid:173)
`ery technology; and the resultant
`innovative structures made possi(cid:173)
`ble, also facilitate the development
`of an increasing number of prod(cid:173)
`ucts for use in the medical and
`industrial fields.
`
`46
`
`Derek T. Ward
`
`ITS Contributing editor
`
`Colour, weight, touch and
`handle
`Other speakers covered more spe(cid:173)
`cific aspects of the contemporary
`knitting industry Dr Massimiliano
`Zegna Barufa, of Zegna Barufa
`Borgosesia SpA (I) , said colour,
`weight, touch and handle are the
`characteristic elements of a yarn,
`which itself constitutes the smallest
`yet most important component of
`knitwear. He
`described how
`research and development of the
`initial concept of a new yarn
`involves close contact with trade
`associations, trade fair organisa(cid:173)
`tions, boutiques de style, fibre sup(cid:173)
`plier, boutiques and general mar -
`kets to identify trends and to initiate
`new ideas.
`He said: "Sensitivity; intuition, expe(cid:173)
`rience, creativity; and constant com-
`
`Fig. J.· Mervyn Davies, Marks & Spencer:
`«The pace of change is increasing.»
`Picture:DW
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 2/200'.i
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.4
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`He defined a high performance
`yarn as being one with a ''way
`of working or functioning clearly
`superior to
`the yarns normally
`intended for specific end-uses."
`This group included flame retar -
`dant yarns based on intrinsically
`flame retardant fibre , and anti-bac(cid:173)
`terial yarns based on anti-bacterial
`fibre.
`
`High tech yarns were described as
`being usually based on "engi(cid:173)
`neered organic synthetic poly(cid:173)
`mers " such as para- and meta(cid:173)
`aramids, although a number of
`fibres based on inorganic materials
`could be included. He mentioned
`how "Basofil" (melamine), "Zylon"
`(poly-phenylene-2, 6benzobisoa(cid:173)
`zole) and "Panox" and "Lastan"
`(both partially oxidized polyacry(cid:173)
`lonitrile) are already being evaluat(cid:173)
`ed
`for
`knitting
`applications
`although they are really still under
`development. Inorganic items such
`as carbon and various metallic
`fibres are also being used, alone or
`in blends. He noted that all the
`Formula-!
`teams, pilots
`and
`mechanics, wear knitted under -
`wear, socks and gloves made with
`high tech yarns. ''The yarns are in
`continuous evolution, as are spun
`yarns based on meta- and para(cid:173)
`arid microfibre"
`
`In conclusion, Mr Piccolini said
`"Besides a marketing investigation
`aimed at identifying the require(cid:173)
`ments of the niche market at which
`the new yarn is aimed, the develop(cid:173)
`ment of an
`innovative product
`requires expertise and, many
`times, significant financial effort, for
`the whole textile chain, including
`fibre producer, spinner, knitter,
`dyer and finisher, and manufactur -
`er. The return on the investment is
`often long term.''
`
`Whole garment knitting
`A paper delivered by Hidekazu
`Masui, Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd CT), sug(cid:173)
`gested how the concept of whole
`garment knitting as a means to
`boost productivity has become
`more attractive in high labour cost
`countries at a time of increasing
`competition in global markets. He
`explained how Shima Seiki has
`worked for many years to overcome
`
`=-rB International Textile Bulletin 2/2003
`
`47
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.5
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`the challenges involved in automat(cid:173)
`ing the process. Machine develop(cid:173)
`ment progressed
`from
`simple
`chain-driven basic needle selec(cid:173)
`tion machines to the more sophisti(cid:173)
`cated chain-driven jacquard selec(cid:173)
`tion stitch transfer units.
`
`Although it had been possible for
`some
`time
`to produce basic
`shaped fully-fashioned panels, the
`restrictions imposed by slow pro(cid:173)
`duction, lack of yarn control and
`take-down control, and the enor -
`mous amount of time needed to
`create the knitting machine pro(cid:173)
`grammes,
`severely
`hampered
`progress. However, in 1989, the
`
`Fig. 2: High fashion style created on modern
`Stoll flat lmitting machines.
`Picture: Stoll
`
`introduction of the Shima Seiki
`SES l 22FF unit, a purpose-built V(cid:173)
`bed, belt driven variable stroke
`knitting machine with individual
`electronic needle selection, comb
`set-up, digital stitch control, and
`many other innovations essential
`for the production of fully shaped
`panels, was a quantum leap for(cid:173)
`ward.
`
`More major progress followed with
`the introduction by the Japanese
`company of a new concept in
`machine programming software.
`This not only dramatically reduced
`programmmg
`times, but
`also
`offered greater versatility in pat(cid:173)
`terning and shaping technologies.
`
`48
`
`In 1999, Shima Seiki launched what
`the speaker described as
`the
`world's first purpose-built range of
`whole garment knitting machines.
`These employed highly innovative
`compound slider needles, individu(cid:173)
`ally selectable take-down mecha(cid:173)
`nism, additional auxiliary transfer,
`sinker and needle beds, plus a
`unique programming system. For
`the first time designers and techni(cid:173)
`cians could create new types of
`whole garment knitted items suffi(cid:173)
`ciently attractive to help revive
`jaded market sectors.
`
`the
`between
`Collaboration
`European branch of the Japanese
`machinery builder and Davenport
`Knitwear (GB) has resulted in the
`latter's purchase of 48 SWGX 12
`gauge units and three SDS design
`systems. This equipment permits
`the GB knitwear manufacturer to
`respond to customers' constantly
`changing requirements, caused by
`rapid changes in fashion trends or
`even weather. Deliveries in units of
`50 dozen can be made within three
`days, thanks to the ease with which
`style changes can be made on the
`equipment.
`
`In a second paper concerned with
`the commercial reality of whole
`garment knitting, Ali Aytemiz,
`Aytemizler Textile Industry & Trade
`Co. Ltd. (TR), reviewed the machin(cid:173)
`ery available, the need for greater
`designer familiarity and expertise
`with the concept, and the marketing
`arguments for its use. He said tar(cid:173)
`geted ideals of standardisation of
`fabric and garment weight control,
`uniformity of measurements, and
`finishing, have very nearly been
`achieved. The latest technology
`offers to the customer the promise
`of comfort, particularly in close fit(cid:173)
`ting garments, children's wear and
`underwear tops. Mr Aytemiz said
`"in the near future, variable stitch
`density will permit g arments to be
`knitted
`in more realistic body
`shapes. Already, the trials we have
`carried out have received a very
`good response. The excess materi(cid:173)
`al which occurs
`in
`traditional
`knitwear can be avoided, resulting
`in lighter garments." He said mate(cid:173)
`rial consumption and make-up
`costs are significantly lower com(cid:173)
`pared with those of panel knitting.
`
`The resultant cost advantage will
`become an important argument.
`High quality stitch construction
`combined with the use of high qual(cid:173)
`ity yarns will be available to cus(cid:173)
`tomers at more affordable prices.
`
`Industrial textiles sector
`growing
`A speaker from Clariant GmbH (D) ,
`in a presentation concerned with
`coating knitted goods for technical
`
`Fig. 3: Karl Mayer's Stephan Jung: "The pos(cid:173)
`sibilities of the "Rascheltronic" machine are
`now being appreciated beyond the under(cid:173)
`wear sector and into sportswear and uphol(cid:173)
`stery sectors.
`Picture : Karl Mayer
`
`applications, said the global market
`for technical textiles is estimated to
`be currently worth 42 billion USD.
`Beate Pluckhan forec ast that by
`2005 this value will have increased
`by almost 50% to 61 billion USD.
`
`In Western Europe, turnover 1s
`expected to increase in value from
`11 billion USD last year (2002) to
`12.9 billion USD in 2005. Technical
`textiles already account for 24% of
`the entire textile market in Western
`Europe and this percentage is ris(cid:173)
`ing strongly However, the greatest
`growth potential is seen in Asian
`markets,
`followed
`by North
`America, and then Western Europe.
`The use of knitted construction in
`the technical textiles sector, already
`significant, is expected to increase
`by around 3% armually She said
`their mass: performance ratio, and
`favourable cost in semi-finished
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 2/2003
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.6
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`He suggested flat knitting units,
`despite their relatively slow opera(cid:173)
`tion, offer "scope for design options
`which cannot be matched in terms
`of implementation simplicity as
`regards their styling and design
`versatility' '
`
`Fabric characteristics are also easi(cid:173)
`ly modified. Martin
`Legner
`described how; for example, a
`spherical shaped product can be
`generated by a three-dimensional
`knitting programme, without need
`of a special
`three-dimensional
`forming device. He emphasised
`that this is not the only form of inno(cid:173)
`vative structures, which can be
`
`tion to the basic structure, simple
`jacquard and intarsia patterns, typi(cid:173)
`cal knitwear formations for shoul(cid:173)
`der, neck and collar, can be
`achieved.
`
`Mr Legner said that, depending
`upon the required design of the
`knitted fabric , and by the possible
`use of machines with addition nee(cid:173)
`dle or transfer beds, such as the
`Stoll CMS 330 TC-4 and TC-R, com(cid:173)
`plete outerwear garments can be
`made in finer gauges. He listed
`labour saving, optimised yarn con(cid:173)
`sumption, minimised storage, logis(cid:173)
`tic and reduced waste disposal
`costs as advantages associated
`
`'r--41- ~
`,.1t ...:,
`;,;;.-:'!
`
`;---;--..---::::::::,.
`
`state, means they can be used
`advantageously
`in
`composites.
`They are already used widely in
`medical and hygiene, apparel, pro(cid:173)
`tective, and automotive textiles, and
`in geotextiles.
`
`The speaker discussed the types
`of
`textile auxiliaries used as
`binders, cross-linking and water/
`oil repellent agents and flame(cid:173)
`retardants commonly used. These
`included polymer dispersions,
`melamine
`resins, fluorocarbons,
`and polyphosphates. She then out(cid:173)
`lined the application processes
`employed for different types of
`products.
`
`In conclusion, she said the technical
`textiles market demands positive
`developments to improve the prop(cid:173)
`erties of existing fibres and new
`fibre developments, more cost
`favourable production
`technolo(cid:173)
`gies, and new product innovations
`"to reinforce and support the appli(cid:173)
`cation possibilities of knitted mate(cid:173)
`rials in this high growth-potential
`market."
`
`Three-dimensional
`structures from flat knitting
`machines
`According to Martin Legner, H. Stoll
`GmbH & Co (D) in contrast to that
`for most other types of textile
`machinery; the demand for modern
`flat knitting machines has grown
`immensely in recent years and a
`Fig. 4.· Jacquard-patterned, elastic and rigid knitted constructions can be made on Karl
`relatively high level of machines Mayer's versatile "Cliptronic" units.
`Picture: Karl Mayer
`has been sold steadily (Fig. 2).
`
`In a paper dealing with the ability
`of modern flat knitting machines
`to manufacture three-dimensional
`structures for fashion and techni(cid:173)
`cal textile products, he suggested
`both economic and technical rea(cid:173)
`sons underlie this apparent phe(cid:173)
`nomenon. These reasons include
`knit-friendly fashion trends, high
`demand for modern machines from
`the Far East, growth of knitwear
`production in other regions such
`as China, Turkey; Arabian and
`Eastern European countries, glob(cid:173)
`alisation of markets and increased
`prosperity
`in many countries,
`and the eagerness of established
`knitwear industries to adopt new
`design and production concepts.
`
`made. Others include voluminous
`knits, spacer fabrics, web or inter -
`face constructions, and
`tubular
`structures. He said all these possi(cid:173)
`bilities can usually be created, even
`same
`jointly applied, on
`the
`machine.
`
`Stoll knit-and-wear technology can
`be used to produce complete gar -
`ments on a flat bed unit. The tech(cid:173)
`nology employs a three-dimension(cid:173)
`al knitting process. Using it to make
`a pullover, for example, three fash(cid:173)
`ioned tubular pieces are joined by
`the use of knitting, transfer and link(cid:173)
`ing actions to form a finished ready(cid:173)
`to-wear garment. This technique is
`extremely versatile in that, in addi-
`
`with Stoll knit-and-wear manufac(cid:173)
`turing.
`
`Impact of new machine
`concepts
`Stephan Jung (Fig. 3), Karl Mayer
`Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH (D)
`outlined how recently introduced
`machine concepts are assisting the
`global knitting industries to meet
`increasingly complex demands,
`such as that for high and higher
`quality products, for greater indi(cid:173)
`viduality in different markets, for
`meeting a variety of different work(cid:173)
`ing methods, and for overcoming
`various technical problems, such as
`those associated with reference
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 2/2003
`
`49
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.7
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`points for pattern centring and
`sample sizes.
`
`cooling functions can be intro(cid:173)
`duced.
`
`Kong's total exports, with 27% of the
`available workforce engaged.
`
`Speaking about the Karl Mayer
`series of
`"Cliptronic"
`(Fig. 4)
`machines, for example, a variety of
`jacquard-patterned,
`elastic
`and
`rigid fabrics can be manufactured.
`Various machines from the range
`are being used primarily for mak(cid:173)
`ing a wide variety of underwe ar
`and outerwear fabrics. "What they
`all have in common," he said, "is
`that the broche-knitted structures
`all have at their disposal relief-like
`pattern motifs which are not in any
`way restricted by repeats. These
`motifs can be specifically placed
`not only for design reasons but also
`from a functional point of view.
`
`The fabric background can be
`designed independently from the
`patterning and can be formed
`by a complete
`jacquard bar."
`Detailing the wide versatility of the
`Jung
`"Cliptronic"
`system, Mr
`claimed that a manufacturer of
`ready-made garments is helped
`during further processing. Reference
`points for cutting and making-up
`can be established. "Stretching is
`increasingly function-oriented or
`limitable, more or fewer transparent
`zones can be created, and desired
`
`Further development of the compa(cid:173)
`ny's "Rascheltronic" unit has added
`considerably to its patterning ver -
`satility when making fine jacquard(cid:173)
`patterned, rigid and elastic fabrics .
`The advantages of this type of
`machine are now being appreciat(cid:173)
`ed beyond the underwear sector
`and
`into
`sportswear and
`the
`demanding upholstery
`sectors.
`Company logos can be incorpo(cid:173)
`rated, and function and design-ori(cid:173)
`ented cooling openings
`(mesh
`inserts) can be included to achieve
`an optimum microclimate function
`while circumventing the necessity
`of expensive making-up opera(cid:173)
`tions.
`
`Hong Kong
`metamorphosis
`The seesaw history of the Hong
`Kong knitting industry was outlined
`by Anthony Wan, senior R&D man(cid:173)
`ager, Fountainset Holdings Ltd
`(HK) . The Hong Kong textile indus(cid:173)
`try was originally set up after the
`Second World by textile tycoons
`fleeing from Shanghai. By 1976 tex(cid:173)
`tile exports reached an all time
`high, accounting for 65% of Hong
`
`.
`..
`{UEGG + EGLI AG Makers of Weavers ' Reed: •
`
`-
`
`Hofstrasse 98
`CH-8620 Wetzikon
`Tel. ++41 (0) I 932 40 25
`Fax ++41 (0) I 932 47 66
`Internet: www.ruegg-egli.com
`E-Mail: contact@ruegg-egli.com
`
`• weaver's reeds for all types of machines
`• lease reeds in all forms
`• narrow fabric weaving reeds for all machine types
`• adjustabel (expanding) warping reeds
`• spiral-spring grids in all widths
`• grinding and buffing stones
`
`50
`
`However, booming land values m
`Hong Kong persuaded the tycoons
`to move their spinning mills to near -
`by Asian countries. Knitting, weav(cid:173)
`ing, dyeing and garment making
`operations, occupying less space,
`remained. By 1980 the value of tex(cid:173)
`tile exports had slumped to 42%,
`although
`textiles
`remained
`the
`biggest industry By the middle of
`that decade customers started
`demanding higher standards for
`their apparel.
`
`From the early 1990's, competition
`from
`neighbouring
`regions,
`Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia and
`the Philippines, and more recently
`Pakistan and India, became much
`stronger. The financial turmoil of
`1997 was another blow, operating
`against
`the Hong Kong dollar,
`which was pegged to the USD At
`the time, textile technology educa(cid:173)
`tion was focused on production; lit(cid:173)
`tle attention was paid to R&D Mr
`Wan said product development in
`the knitting sector usually consisted
`of the "knock off" of a sample sup(cid:173)
`plied by the customer. More recent(cid:173)
`ly, the shift towards functional and
`lifestyle garments has convinced
`Hong Kong knitters to start their
`own R&D programmes and work
`closely with yarn spinners and
`chemical suppliers.
`
`Today's Hong Kong textile industry
`is vastly different. The association of
`the electronic and computer indus(cid:173)
`tries with the textile industry has
`presented both challenges and
`opportunities. In the knitting sector,
`R&D is now seen as the key to suc(cid:173)
`cess, together with better supply
`chain management and production
`planning. "Without doubt, Hong
`Kong's knitting industry will remain
`a major player in the supply of knit(cid:173)
`ted fabrics. But the industry will find
`it difficult to compete on the basic
`items, as part of this business will
`be dominated by those located in
`the developing countries." Speed,
`quality, price and innovation are
`now being considered the vital
`necessities for survival.
`
`For further details contact: kirn.gandhi@vir(cid:173)
`gin.net by quoting ONS-No. 3-131. ■
`
`ITB International Textile Bulletin 2/2003
`
`Skechers EX1061-p.8
`Skechers v Nike
`
`