as) United States
`a2) Patent Application Publication co) Pub. No.: US 2018/0168954 Al
`
`(43) Pub. Date: Jun. 21, 2018
`MILLETet al.
`
`US 20180168954A1
`
`(54)
`
`(71)
`
`(72)
`
`ANHYDROUS DEODORANT COMPOSITION
`MADE FROM BICARBONATE
`
`Applicant: LABORATOIRES M&L,
`
`MANOSQUE(FR)
`
`
`Inventors: MAGALI MILLET, LES MEES (FR);
`FLORIAN SALLES, MANOSQUE
`(FR)
`
`(21)
`
`Appl. No.:
`
`15/575,590
`
`(22)
`
`PCT Filed:
`
`May 10, 2016
`
`(86)
`
`PCT No.:
`
`PCT/FR2016/051095
`
`§ 371 ©),
`(2) Date:
`
`Nov. 20, 2017
`
`(30)
`
`Foreign Application Priority Data
`
`Publication Classification
`
`(51)
`
`(2006.01)
`(2006.01)
`(2006.01)
`(2006.01)
`(2006.01)
`(2006.01)
`
`Int. Cl.
`AGIK 8/19
`A61O 15/00
`AGIK 8/92
`AGIK 8/34
`AGIK 8/25
`AGIK 8/73
`(52) U.S. Cl
`CPC cesses AGIK 8/19 (2013.01); A61Q 15/00
`(2013.01); A6IK 8/922 (2013.01); A6IK
`2800/87 (2013.01); AGIK 8/25 (2013.01):
`AGIK 8/732 (2013.01); A6IK 2800/31
`(2013.01); 461K 845 (2013.01)
`
`(57)
`
`ABSTRACT
`
`invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic
`The present
`composition made from bicarbonate salt, and the cosmetic
`use of same as a deodorant. The invention also relates to a
`
`May 21, 2015
`
`(ER) ceesscssesssscssssssssssssesssesesesee 1554552
`
`deodorant product containing said composition.
`
`Petitioner Dr. Squatch
`Ex. 1044
`
`Petitioner Dr. Squatch
` Ex. 1044
`
`

`

`US 2018/0168954 Al
`
`Jun. 21, 2018
`
`ANHYDROUS DEODORANT COMPOSITION
`MADE FROMBICARBONATE
`
`SUBJECT OF THE INVENTION
`
`[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous cos-
`metic composition based on bicarbonatesalt, and also to the
`cosmetic use thereof as a deodorant. It also relates to a
`
`deodorant product containing this composition.
`
`
`
`BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
`
`and antiperspiranis have become
`[0002] Deodorants
`hygiene products that are as indispensable as shampoos and
`toothpastes. Although the former act on perspiration odors
`either by camouflaging them or bytargeting the bacteria that
`feed on apocrine sweat, or else by absorbing the perspira-
`tion, the latter regulate the amount of sweat emitted. The
`safety of the aluminum salts used as antiperspirant agents
`has been called into question in recent years, which has
`resulted in consumers turning to products that contain natu-
`ral deodorant agents such as talc and/or certain plants in
`dried form or in the form of essential oils. However, the
`effectiveness of these products is still not optimal.
`[0003]
`Sodium bicarbonate forms a recognized natural
`deodorant active agent. At
`the doses considered to be
`effective, its formulation is on the other hand complicated by
`its incompatibility with many raw materials, in particular
`whenit must be formulated in solid or semi-solid anhydrous
`compositions having good cosmetic properties.
`
`SUMMARYOFTHE INVENTION
`
`[0004] After muchresearch, the applicant has developed a
`composition in which effective amounts of bicarbonatesalt
`may be combined with a large amount of oils without
`adversely affecting the stability of the composition.It is thus
`possible to formulate anhydrous deodorants in cream form
`or in the form ofsticks of soft texture, based on ingredients
`of natural origin. These compositions have proved easy to
`apply, effective against perspiration odors and capable of
`depositing a soft, non-greasy and non-tacky film on the skin.
`[0005] One subject ofthe invention is thus an anhydrous
`cosmetic composition containing:
`[0006]
`(a) from 1% to 20% by weight of at least one
`bicarbonate salt,
`[0007]
`(b) from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one oil,
`[0008]
`(c) at least one fatty-phase structuring agent,
`[0009]
`(d) glycerol, and
`[0010]
`(ce) at least one polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid
`containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
`[0011] Another subject is the cosmetic use of this com-
`positionfor treating human body odors, in particular axillary
`odors.
`[0012] Lastly it relates to a deodorant product in the form
`of a tube, pot or any other packaging,in particular of oblong,
`shape, suitable for dispensing a semi-solid composition,
`containing the composition according to the invention in
`cream form, or in a packaging form suitable for dispensing
`a stick, containing the composition according to the inven-
`tion io stick form.
`
`DETAILED DESCRIPTION
`
`‘lhe composition according to the invention is an
`[0013]
`anhydrous composition, in the sense thatit contains less than
`5% by weight of water, advantageously less than 1% by
`
`weight of water, which maybe introduced solely by its
`constituent ingredients. Preferably it contains no water.
`[0014]
`It comprises a bicarbonate salt as deodorant agent.
`This may represent from 1% to 20%byweight, and prel-
`erably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total
`weight of the composition. As bicarbonate salts, mention
`may be made of sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammo-
`niumsalts, the sodium salt being preferred for use in this
`invention. According, to one embodiment, the composition
`does not contain aluminum salts. On the other hand, it may
`however contain at least one additional deodorant active
`
`agent chosen from: bacteriostatic or bactericidal agents,
`such as chlorhexidine andsalts thereof: triclosan:triclocar-
`ban; farnesol; essential oils of plant origin, chosen for
`example from oregano, palmarosa, peppermint,
`lavender,
`lemon and tea tree essential oils; plant extracts such as
`grapefruit seed extracts; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate,
`pidolate and ricinoleate; and mixtures thercof.
`[0015] As indicated previously, it was observed that the
`composition according to the invention was stable in the
`presence of bicarbonate, even though it contains large
`amounts of oil, namely from 20% to 50% by weight, and in
`particular from 25% to 40% by weight, of one or moreoils,
`relative to the total weight of the composition. Within the
`meaning of the present invention, an “oil” is understood to
`mean a compoundthatis liquid at room temperature (25° C.)
`and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, whenitis intro-
`duced in a proportion ofat least 1% by weight into water at
`25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or is soluble upto less
`than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced
`into the water. The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile. A
`“nonvolatile oil” is understood in this description to mean an
`oil that remains on the skin at 25° C. and atmospheric
`pressure for at least one hour, in the absence of rubbing,
`and/or that has a vapor pressure of less than 0.001 mmHg
`under these conditions. The oils included in the composition
`according to the invention may or may not be volatile;
`advantageously they are nonvolatile. As a variant, it may be
`a mixture of nonvolatile oils (in the majority by weight) and
`volatile oils (in the minority by weight). Examples of
`volatile oils are in particular Cll to C14 linear alkanes.
`Moreover, the nonvolatile oils are preferably chosen from
`hydrocarbon-based oils,
`that
`is to say that they contain
`exclusively carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally
`oxygen aloms.
`[0016] Examples of nonvolatile oils include:
`[0017]
`esters of acids and of monoalcohols chosen
`from: monoesters and polyesters of C2-C10 (preferably
`C6-C10) saturated linear acids and of C10-C18 (pref-
`erably C10-C14)
`saturated linear monoalcchols,
`monoesters and polyesters of C10-C20 saturated linear
`acids and of C3-C20 (preferably C3-C10) branched or
`unsaturated monoalcohols; monoesters and polyesters
`of C5-C20 branched or unsaturated acids and of
`C5-C20
`branched or unsaturated monoalccohols;
`monoesters and polyesters of C5-C20 branched or
`unsaturated acids and of C2-C4 linear monoalcohols;
`[0018]
`triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids, such as
`triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and trihep-
`tanoin;
`[0019] C10-C20 branched and/or unsaturated fatty
`acids (such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids);
`[0020] C10-C20 branched and/or unsaturated fatty alco-
`hols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
`
`

`

`US 2018/0168954 Al
`
`Jun. 21, 2018
`
`hydrocarbons such as plant squalane extracted
`[0021]
`from olive oil;
`[0022]
`dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate
`and diethylhexyl carbonate;
`[0023]
`dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and
`[0024] mixtures thereof.
`[0025] Mention may also be made of the plant oils that
`contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents.
`[0026]
`Asesters of acids and of monoalcohols which form
`the preferred class of nonvolatile oils according to the
`invention, mention mayin particular be made of monoesters
`such as the mixture of coco caprate and caprylate, ethyl
`macadamiate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isastearate,
`isonony] isononanoate, ethylhexy! isononanoate, hexyl! neo-
`pentanoate, ethylhexy] neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentano-
`ate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, iso-
`propyl myristate,
`octyldodecyl myristate,
`isopropyl
`palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamy1 lau-
`rate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate and mix-
`tures thereof. Other esters that can be used are the diesters
`of acids and of monoalcohols such as diisopropyl adipate,
`diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamy]
`sebacate.
`[0027] Examples ofplant oils are in particular wheatgerm
`oil, sunflower oil, argon oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil,
`grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor
`oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet
`almondoil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut
`oil, macadamiaoil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil,
`pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil,
`blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage
`oil, millet oil, barley oil, guinva oil, rye oil, saffloweroil,
`candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil or camellia
`oil.
`
`In order to obtain a stable composition having good
`[0028]
`cosmetic properties, the composition according, to the inven-
`tion additionally contains a combination of at
`least one
`fatty-phase structuring agent with glycerol and at least one
`polyglycerolester of a fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 30
`carbon atoms.
`
`[0029] A “fatty-phase structuring agent” is understood to
`mean a compoundcapable of thickening the oils contained
`in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty-
`phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, and also
`mixtures thereof.
`[0030] The term “wax” denotes, within the context ofthis
`description, a fatty substance that is solid at 25° C., with a
`reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting
`point generally between 30° C. and 160° C., preferably
`between 50° C. and 90° C., as measured by DSC. Examples
`of waxes are in particular waxes of animalor plant origin,
`such as beeswax, Chinese insect wax, candelilla wax, car-
`nauba wax or acacia wax; hydrogenated plant oils that are
`optionally modified by isostearic acid, in particular hydro-
`genated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and
`castor oils; esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and
`of C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols; C10-C30 linear
`and saturated acids; C8-C30 linear and saturated alcohols;
`and mixtures thereof. These waxes may be in micronized
`form,that is to say in the form of a powder, the particles of
`which have a number-average size of less than or equal to 50
`jum, and in particular ranging from 0.5 to 50 pum, preferably
`ranging from 1 to 30 um, or even ranging from 3 to 20 um,
`where the “number-average size” corresponds to the dimen-
`
`sion given bythestatistical particle size distribution to half
`of the population, referred to as D50.
`[0031] The expression “fatty-phase gelling agents”refers
`to the compoundsthat modify the rheology ofthe fatty phase
`by forming a three-dimensional network. As compounds of
`this type, mention may especially be made of hydrophobic
`modified clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites), in
`particular that are modified by di stearyldimethylammonium
`chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin
`palmitate and myristate; polyamides, olefin(s)/styrene copo-
`lymers, poly(alkyl acrylates); glycerides of C,.-C,, (prefer-
`ably linear and saturated) fatty acids such as the compound
`Nomeort® IIKG; cellulose derivatives and mixtures con-
`taining, same; and mixtures thereof. Certain hydrogenated
`plant oils may also be considered to be fatty-phase gelling
`agents.
`Finally, the pasty fatty substances that can be used
`[0032]
`as fatty-phase structuring agents are defined as fatty sub-
`stances with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having
`in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and
`comprising at a temperature of 23° C. a liquid fraction and
`a solid fraction. Use is preferably made of plant butters.
`Shea, cocoa and mangobutters constitute examples of such
`pasty falty substances.
`[0033] According to one preferred embodiment, the fatty-
`phase structuring agent included in the composition accord-
`ing to the invention consists of at least onc ingredient chosen
`from waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, fatty-
`phase gelling agents and mixtures thereof, optionally com-
`bined with at least one plant butter. Morepreferentially still,
`the fatty-phase structuring agent consists of a combination
`of at least one animal and/or plant wax with at least one
`fatty-phase gelling agent.
`[0034] These fatty-phase structuring agents mayrepresent
`from 5% to 40%, and preferably from 15% to 30% of the
`total weight of the composition.
`[0035] Another constituent of the composition according
`to the invention, contributingto its stability, is glycerol. This
`mayrepresent from 1% to 15% and preferably from 3% to
`10% ofthe weight of the composition.
`[0036] The composition according to the invention also
`contains at
`least one polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid
`containing, from 12 to 30, preferably from 18 to 22 carbon
`atoms. The fatty acid may be chosen from saturated linear
`acids, saturated branched acids, monounsaturated lincar
`acids and mixtures thereof. These acids may optionally be
`monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated. Examples of such
`compounds are in particular stearic,
`isostearic, capric,
`arachidic, behenic, hydroxypalmitic, hydroxystearic, oleic
`and erucic acids. The polyglycerol may be obtained by
`condensation of two to six glycerol units. It is preferably
`polyglycerol-3 or -4. The polyglycerol may bepartially or
`completely esterified in order to obtain the ester used in the
`present invention. It mayparticular be the product of the
`esterification of a wax using polyglycerol. A productof this
`type is commercially available from GATTET'OSSE under
`the trade name Acticire®.
`
`[0037] This ester may represent from 0.1% to 5% and
`preferably from 0.5% to 3% of the total weight of the
`composition.
`[0038] The composition according to the invention addi-
`tionally advantageously contains one or more pulverulent
`fillers, which are suitable for absorbing moisture and sweat
`and which are generally in the form of porous or hollow
`
`

`

`US 2018/0168954 Al
`
`Jun. 21, 2018
`
`inorganic fillers such assilica, clays, perlite and
`
`microparticles, preferably porous microparticles. These
`microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These
`fillers may in particular be chosen from:
`[0039]
`organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccha-
`rides and in particular of native starch, of modified
`starch and cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such
`as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyole-
`fins; powders of dried algac such as Corallina offici-
`nalis;
`[0040]
`talc;
`and mixtures thereof.
`[0041]
`[0042] The starches are preferably chosen from corn
`starch, rice starch,
`tapioca starch or wheat starch. The
`modified starches constitute preferred organic fillers for use
`in this invention. Examples of modified starches are the
`optionally pre-gelatinized and/or oxidized starches, that are
`esterified by an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular by
`octenylsuccinie or dodecylsuccinic anhydride, optionally in
`the presence of calcium chloride, and also etherified
`starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymeth-
`ylated starches, and cationic starches, in particular quater-
`nized starches. Mention may also be made of the starch
`crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate. As inorganicfiller,
`use is preferably made ofsilica.
`[0043] These fillers may represent from 10% to 30% by
`weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to
`the total weight of the composition.
`[0044]
`It may additionally comprise additives chosen in
`particular from fragrances, antioxidants such as tocopherol,
`dyes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
`[0045]
`It is preferred for the composition according to the
`invention to contain an amountofat least 90% by weight of
`ingredients of plant origin, as determined according to the
`ASTM D7026 standard.
`[0046] The composition described above may be used as
`a deodorant product, which maybe in cream form (advan-
`tageously having the texture of a balm) or stick form
`advantageously having a soft texture.
`
`
`
`EXAMPLES
`
`[0049] This balm may be packagedin pots and withdrawn
`using a spatula.
`
` Example 2: Deodorant Balm
`
`[0050]
`
`Plant. butters
`Plant waxes andester*
`Plant oils
`Glycerol
`Sodium bicarbonate
`Native starches
`Antioxidant
`Fragrance
`
`20.00%
`9.00%
`33.00%
`6.00%
`10.00%
`20.00%
`0.20%
`1.50%
`
`“including Acticire ® from GATTEFOSSE,containing polyglycerol-3 esters of C12-C30
`fatty acids.
`
`Example 3: Stability Test
`
`Four samples A to D were taken from the compo-
`[0051]
`
`sition of Example 1, which were divided up into four
`pillboxes stored respectively at 4° C., 25° C., 40° C. and 50°
`C. The stability of the samples A to C is evaluated every
`week for 1 month then every 15 days for 2 months and the
`stability of the sample D is evaluated every week for 1
`month.
`
`[0052] By wayof comparison, the stability of a similar
`product was evaluated,
`this product containing: a plant
`butter, plant oils, glycerol,
`sodium bicarbonate, starch,
`essential oils and an antioxidant. This product contained no
`polyglycerol ester, wax or fatty-phase gelling agent. It was
`also divided up into four samples, as described above.
`[0053] The appearance of
`the
`samples
`tested was
`observed. The results are presented in the table below:
`
`Product tested
`
`After
`3 months
`at 4° C.
`
`After
`3 months
`at 25°C.
`
`After
`3 months
`at 40° C.
`
`After
`1 month
`at 50° C,
`
`[0047] The invention will be better understood in light of
`the following examples, which are given purely by way of
`illustration and the objective of which is not to limit the
`scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.
`
`Example 1
`Comparative
`example
`
`stable
`stable
`
`stable
`stable
`
`Example 1: Deodorant Balm
`
`[0048] A balm was prepared by mixing the ingredients in
`the weight proportions indicated below.
`
`stable
`stable
`phase
`granular
`separation
`appearance;
`starting
`exudation
`from 1 week
`starting
`from 1 week and browning
`and darker
`color
`
`Plant butters
`Plant waxes and estcr*
`Plant oils
`Glycerol
`Sodium bicarbonate
`Modified starch
`Silica
`Essential oils
`Antioxidant
`Fragrance
`Total:
`
`20.00%
`9.00%
`24.00%
`6.00%
`10.00%
`23.00%
`2.00%
`qs
`qs
`qs
`100.00%
`
`*including Acticire ® from GATTEFOSSE,containing polyglycerol-3 esters of C12-C30
`fatty acids.
`
`It emerges from thistest that the product according
`[0054]
`to the invention is morestable at 40° C., that is to say under
`accelerated aging conditions which are considered to be
`representative of the behavior of the product stored for three
`years under normal storage conditions.
`
`Example 4: Sensory Analysis
`
`[0055] A panel of 19 volunteers was recruited in order to
`evaluate the balm of Example 1. The product was applied
`underthe armpits with the spatula, followed by a massage to
`make it penetrate into the skin.
`[0056] The panelists predominantly considered that the
`product was easyto apply (17/19), limited the formation of
`
`

`

`US 2018/0168954 Al
`
`Jun. 21, 2018
`
`
`
`21. The composition as claimed in claim 20, characterized
`in that the bicarbonate salt represents from 5% to 15% by
`weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
`22. The compositionas claimed in claim 20, characterized
`in that the fatty-phase structuring agent consists of at least
`one ingredient chosen from waxes of animal origin, waxes
`of plant origin, fatty-phase gelling agents and mixtures
`thereof, optionally combined with at least one plant butter,
`morepreferentially the fatty-phase structuring agent consists
`of a combination of at least one animal and/or plant wax
`with at least one fatty-phase gelling agent.
`23. Lhe composition as claimed in claim 20, characterized
`in that the glycerol represents from 1% to 15% by weight,
`preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total
`weight of the composition.
`24. The composition as claimed in claim 20, characterized
`in that it additionally contains one or more pulverulentfillers
`in the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably
`chosen from modified starches, silica and mixtures thereof.
`25. The composition as claimed in claim 24, characterized
`in that the pulverulentfillers represent from 10% to 30% by
`weight, and preferably from 15%to 30% by weight, relative
`to the total weight of the composition.
`26. A cosmetic process for treating human body odors
`comprising, applying the compositionas claimed in claim 20
`to said human.
`
`
`
`perspiration odors (17/19) and provided good deodorant
`protection (16/19), without leaving marks on clothing (15/
`19).
`
`Example 5: Sensory Analysis—Comparative Test
`
`[0057] The balm of Example 2 was comparedto a similar
`product containing: a plant butter, plant oils, glycerol,
`sodium bicarbonate, starch, essential oils and an antioxidant.
`This product contained no polyglycerol ester, wax or fatty-
`phase gelling agent.
`[0058]
`In order to do this, 9 volunteers were recruited. On
`the morningofthe test they were asked to wash their armpits
`with a neutral soap before applying, using a spatula, from
`0.4 to 0.5 g of the balm of Example 2 under one armpit and
`the same amount of the comparative balm under the other
`armpit. The panelists were then clothed in a black Lycra
`T-shirt, prewashed using a neutral detergent, which they kept
`on for the whole day. The effectiveness of the balms was
`self-cvaluated after 8 hours, in the test laboratory.
`[0059] The balm of Example 2 was moreeffective than the
`comparative balm against perspiration odors after 8 h (no
`odor for 8 panelists as opposed to 6 panelists). Moreoverit
`generated fewer marks on the ‘l-shirt
`(no marks for 5
`panelists as opposed to 3 panelists). Moreover, the panelists
`preferred the softer texture of the balm of Example 2.
`1-19. (canceled)
`20. An anhydrous cosmetic composition containing:
`(a) from 1% to 20% by weight of at least one bicarbonate
`salt,
`(b) from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one oil,
`(c) at least one fatty-phase structuring agent,
`(d) glycerol, and
`(e) at least one polyglycerol ester of a fatty acid contain-
`ing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
`
`27. A deodorant product in the form of a tube, pot or any
`other packaging, in particular of oblong shape, suitable for
`dispensing a semi-solid composition, containing the com-
`position as claimed in claim 20 in cream foil.
`28. A deodorant product in a packaging form suitable for
`dispensing a stick, containing the composition as claimed in
`claim 20 in stick form.
`*
`
`*
`
`*
`
`*
`
`%
`
`