Perry Romanowski
`
`Multifunctional
`Cosmetics
`
`Copyrighted Materssotic Science and Technology Veries
`ee)
`Volume 76
`
`edited by
`Randy Schueller
`
`Petitioner Dr. Squatch
` Ex. 1036
`
`

`

`Multifunctional
`Cosmetics
`
`edited by
`Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski
`Alberto Culver Company
`Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Marcel Dekker, Inc.
`
`TM
`
`New York • Basel
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`Copyright © 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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`

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`PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
`
`

`

`COSMETIC SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
`
`Series Editor
`ERIC JUNGERMANN
`Jungermann Associates, Inc.
`Phoenix, Arizona
`
`1. Cosmetic and Drug Preservation: Principles and Practice, edited by
`Jon J. Kabara
`2. The Cosmetic Industry: Scientific and Regulatory Foundations, edited
`by Norman F. Estrin
`3. Cosmetic Product Testing: A Modern Psychophysical Approach,
`Howard R. Moskowitz
`4. Cosmetic Analysis: Selective Methods and Techniques, edited by P.
`Boré
`5. Cosmetic Safety: A Primer for Cosmetic Scientists, edited by James H.
`Whittam
`6. Oral Hygiene Products and Practice, Morton Pader
`7. Antiperspirants and Deodorants, edited by Karl Laden and Carl B.
`Felger
`8. Clinical Safety and Efficacy Testing of Cosmetics, edited by William C.
`Waggoner
`9. Methods for Cutaneous Investigation, edited by Robert L. Rietschel
`and Thomas S. Spencer
`10. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects, edited
`by Nicholas J. Lowe and Nadim A. Shaath
`11. Glycerine: A Key Cosmetic Ingredient, edited by Eric Jungermann and
`Norman O. V. Sonntag
`12. Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology, Donald S. Orth
`13. Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries, edited by Dennis
`Laba
`14. Consumer Testing and Evaluation of Personal Care Products, Howard
`R. Moskowitz
`15. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects. Sec-
`ond Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Nicholas J. Lowe, Na-
`dim A. Shaath, and Madhu A. Pathak
`and Drugs:
`16. Preservative-Free
`and Self-Preserving Cosmetics
`Principles and Practice, edited by Jon J. Kabara and Donald S. Orth
`17. Hair and Hair Care, edited by Dale H. Johnson
`18. Cosmetic Claims Substantiation, edited by Louise B. Aust
`19. Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems, edited by Shlomo Magdassi and
`Elka Touitou
`20. Antiperspirants and Deodorants: Second Edition, Revised and Ex-
`panded, edited by Karl Laden
`21. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, edited by Randy Schueller and
`Perry Romanowski
`
`

`

`22. Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Per-
`sonal Care, edited by E. Desmond Goddard and James V. Gruber
`23. Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, edited by Peter Elsner and
`Howard I. Maibach
`24. Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, edited by Thomas Förster
`25. Skin Moisturization, edited by James J. Leyden and Anthony V. Raw-
`lings
`26. Multifunctional Cosmetics, edited by Randy Schueller and Perry Roma-
`nowski
`
`ADDITIONAL VOLUMES IN PREPARATION
`
`

`

`About the Series
`
`The Cosmetic Science and Technology series was conceived to permit discussion
`of a broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science and tech-
`nology. The series is composed of both books written by a single author and edited
`volumes with a number of contributors. Authorities from industry, academia, and
`the government participate in writing these books.
`The aim of the series is to cover the many facets of cosmetic science and
`technology. Topics are drawn from a wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from
`chemistry, physics, biochemistry, and analytical and consumer evaluations to
`safety, efficacy, toxicity, and regulatory questions. Organic, inorganic, physical
`and polymer chemistry, emulsion and lipid technology, microbiology, dermatol-
`ogy, and toxicology all play important roles in cosmetic science.
`There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, and formu-
`lations required for the wide variety of cosmetics and toiletries in the market.
`Products range from preparations for hair, oral, and skin care to lipsticks, nail pol-
`ishes and extenders, deodorants, body powders and aerosols, to quasi-pharmaceu-
`tical over-the-counter products such as antiperspirants, dandruff shampoos,
`antimicrobial soaps, and acne and sun screen products.
`Cosmetics and toiletries represent a highly diversified field involving many
`subsections of science and “art.” Even in these days of high technology, art and
`intuition continue to play an important part in the development of formulations,
`their evaluations, selection of raw materials, and, perhaps most importantly, the
`successful marketing of new products. The application of more sophisticated sci-
`entific methodologies that gained steam in the 1980s has increased in such areas
`as claim substantiation, safety testing, product testing, and chemical analysis and
`
`iii
`
`

`

`iv
`
`About the Series
`
`has led to a better understanding of the properties of skin and hair. Molecular mod-
`eling techniques are beginning to be applied to data obtained in skin sensory stud-
`ies.
`
`Emphasis in the Cosmetic Science and Technology series is placed on
`reporting the current status of cosmetic technology and science and changing reg-
`ulatory climates and presenting historical reviews. The series has now grown to 26
`books dealing with the constantly changing technologies and trends in the cos-
`metic industry, including globalization. Several of the volumes have been trans-
`lated into Japanese and Chinese. Contributions range from highly sophisticated
`and scientific treatises to primers and presentations of practical applications.
`Authors are encouraged to present their own concepts as well as established theo-
`ries. Contributors have been asked not to shy away from fields that are in a state
`of transition, nor to hesitate to present detailed discussions of their own work.
`Altogether, we intend to develop in this series a collection of critical surveys and
`ideas covering diverse phases of the cosmetic industry.
`The 13 chapters in Multifunctional Cosmetics cover multifunctional prod-
`ucts for hair, nail, oral, and skin care, as well as products with enhanced sunscreen
`and antimicrobial properties. Several chapters deal with the development of claim
`support data, the role of packaging, and consumer research on the perception of
`multifunctional cosmetic products. The authors keep in mind that in the case of
`cosmetics, it is not only the physical effects that can be measured on the skin or
`hair, but also the sensory effects that have to be taken into account. Cosmetics can
`have a psychological and social impact that cannot be underestimated.
`I want to thank all the contributors for participating in this project and par-
`ticularly the editors, Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller, for conceiving,
`organizing, and coordinating this book. It is the second book that they have con-
`tributed to this series and we appreciate their efforts. Special thanks are due to
`Sandra Beberman and Erin Nihill of the editorial and production staff at Marcel
`Dekker, Inc. Finally, I would like to thank my wife, Eva, without whose constant
`support and editorial help I would not have undertaken this project.
`
`Eric Jungermann, Ph.D.
`
`

`

`Preface
`
`In the last several years our industry has seen a shift toward the widespread accep-
`tance of, and even demand for, products that offer more than one primary benefit. A
`variety of technological and marketing factors have contributed to this shift. From
`a technological standpoint, improved raw materials and formulation techniques
`have improved the formulator’s ability to create products that can accomplish mul-
`tiple tasks. In fact, certain performance attributes that were at one time viewed as
`incompatible or mutually exclusive (such as simultaneous shampooing and condi-
`tioning of hair or concurrent cleansing and moisturizing of skin) are now routinely
`delivered by single products. From a business perspective, changing marketing tac-
`tics have also played a role in the escalation of product functionality. Marketers
`have become increasingly bold in their attempts to differentiate their products from
`those of their competitors. Thus, products that claim to have three-in-one function-
`ality attempt to outdo those that are merely two-in-ones. For these reasons, among
`others, it has become important for cosmetic chemists to understand how to develop
`and evaluate multifunctional personal care formulations.
`In this book we discuss multifunctional cosmetics from a variety of view-
`points. First, and most fundamentally, we attempt to define what constitutes a mul-
`tifunctional product. The first two chapters establish the definitions and guidelines
`that are used throughout the book. The next several chapters describe the role of
`multifunctionality in key personal care categories. Three chapters are devoted to
`hair care, with special emphasis on one of the most influential types of multifunc-
`tional products, the two-in-one shampoo. In the last several years, two-in-ones
`have risen to an estimated 20% of the shampoo market, and we can trace the his-
`tory and technical functionality of these formulations. Other multifunctional hair
`
`v
`
`

`

`vi
`
`Preface
`
`care products we explore include those designed to deliver, enhance, or prolong
`color as they clean or condition hair.
`Chapters 5–7, 9 delve into the role of multifunctional products in skin care.
`After an overview of the category we discuss the growing importance of shower
`gels and bath products that claim to cleanse and moisturize skin in one simple step.
`We also address how facial care products can perform multiple functions such as
`cleansing, conditioning, and coloring. We then discuss how antiperspirant/deodor-
`ant products use dually functional formulas to control body odor. Chapter 7 dis-
`cusses the relatively new area of cosmeceuticals—products that have both drug and
`pharmaceutical functionality.
`While the book is primarily concerned with hair and skin care products, one
`chapter is devoted to oral care. There is a clear trend in this category toward prod-
`ucts that perform more than one function; for example, toothpaste formulations
`have gone beyond simple cleansing by adding functionality against cavities, tar-
`tar, plaque, and gingivitis.
`The next two chapters focus on specific functional categories. We discuss
`how to add moisturizing or conditioning functionality to products that have
`another primary functionality. For example, Chapter 9 deals with expanding prod-
`uct functionality by adding sunscreen protection; Chapter 10 describes how to
`include antibacterial properties in a product.
`The last three chapters describe some of the executional details one should
`be aware of when creating multifunctional products. We discuss general consider-
`ations related to formulation and how to design and implement tests for support-
`ing claims. We also cover legal considerations, particularly with respect to OTC
`monographs, in which covering more than one function can lead to problems. The
`final chapter is devoted to the role of packaging in multifunctional products.
`
`Randy Schueller
`Perry Romanowski
`
`

`

`Contents
`
`About the Series (Eric Jungermann)
`Preface
`Contributors
`
`1. Definition and Principles of Multifunctional Cosmetics
`Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller
`
`2. Factors to Consider When Designing Formulations with
`Multiple Functionality
`Mort Westman
`
`3. Multifunctional Ingredients in Hair Care Products
`Damon M. Dalrymple, Ann B. Toomey, and Uta Kortemeier
`
`4. Multifunctional Shampoo: The Two-in-One
`Michael Wong
`
`5. Aspects of Multifunctionality in Skin Care Products
`Johann W. Wiechers
`
`6. Multifunctional Nail Care Products
`Francis Busch
`
`iii
`v
`ix
`
`1
`
`13
`
`29
`
`63
`
`99
`
`vii
`
`

`

`viii
`
`Contents
`
`7. Cosmeceuticals: Combining Cosmetic and
`Pharmaceutical Functionality
`Billie L. Radd
`
`8. Multifunctional Oral Care Products
`M. J. Tenerelli
`
`9. Sun Protectants: Enhancing Product Functionality
`with Sunscreens
`Joseph W. Stanfield
`
`10. Approaches for Adding Antibacterial Properties to
`Cosmetic Products
`Jeffrey Easley, Wilma Gorman, and Monika Mendoza
`
`11. Claims Support Strategies for Multifunctional Products
`Lawrence A. Rheins
`
`12. The Role of Packaging in Multifunctional Products
`Craig R. Sawicki
`
`13. Consumer Research and Concept Development for
`Multifunctional Products
`Shira P. White
`
`Index
`
`115
`
`139
`
`145
`
`161
`
`177
`
`191
`
`209
`
`229
`
`

`

`Contributors
`
`Francis Busch Founder, ProStrong, Inc., Oakville, Connecticut, U.S.A.
`
`Damon M. Dalrymple Senior Research Scientist, New Product Development,
`ABITEC Corporation, Columbus, Ohio, U.S.A.
`
`Jeffrey Easley Senior Technology Transfer Specialist, Product Development,
`Stepan Company, Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Wilma Gorman Senior Technology Transfer Specialist, Stepan Company,
`Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Uta Kortemeier Degussa Care Chemicals, Essen, Germany
`
`Monika Mendoza Stepan Company, Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Billie L. Radd President, BLR Consulting Services, Naperville, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Lawrence A. Rheins Founder, Executive Vice President, DermTech Interna-
`tional, San Diego, California, U.S.A.
`
`ix
`
`

`

`x
`
`Contributors
`
`Perry Romanowski Project Leader, Research and Development, Alberto Cul-
`ver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Craig R. Sawicki Executive Vice President, Design and Development, Tricor-
`Braun, Clarendon Hills, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Randy Schueller Manager, Global Hair Care, Research and Development,
`Alberto Culver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`Joseph W. Stanfield Founder and President, Suncare Research Laboratories,
`LLC, Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A.
`
`M. J. Tenerelli Writer and Editor, Upland Editorial, East Northport, New York,
`U.S.A.
`
`Ann B. Toomey Goldschmidt, Dublin, Ohio, U.S.A.
`
`Mort Westman President, Westman Associates, Inc., Oak Brook, Illinois,
`U.S.A.
`
`Shira P. White President, The SPWI Group, New York, New York, U.S.A.
`
`Johann W. Wiechers Principal Scientist and Skin Research and Development
`Manager, Skin Research and Development, Uniqema, Gouda, The Netherlands
`
`Michael Wong* Clairol, Inc., Stamford, Connecticut, U.S.A.
`
`* Retired.
`
`

`

`1 D
`
`efinition and Principles
`of Multifunctional Cosmetics
`
`Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller
`Alberto Culver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.
`
`A popular late-night comedy television program once made a joke about a product
`that was a combination floor wax and dessert topping. While this is a humorous
`example, it does support the central point of this book: consumers love products
`that can do more than one thing. This is a critical principle that formulating
`chemists should learn to exploit when designing new products and when seeking
`new claims for existing products. If formulators can create products that excite the
`consumer by performing more than one function, these products are more likely to
`succeed in the marketplace. In fact, in many cases, creating products with more than
`one function is no longer a luxury, it is a necessity that is mandated by consumers.
`This book is written to share with the reader some approaches for formulat-
`ing and evaluating multifunctional products. But first, to provide a conceptual
`framework for our discussion, we must state what the term “multifunctionality”
`means in the context of personal care products. The opening section of this chap-
`ter define the term by describing four different dimensions of multifunctionality.
`We then discuss three key reasons why this trend is so important to this industry.
`On the basis of this conceptual foundation, the remainder of the chapter provides
`an overview of the specific product categories discussed throughout the book.
`
`1
`
`

`

`2
`
`Romanowski and Schueller
`
`While the reader may have an intuitive sense of what multifunctionality is,
`there is no single, universally accepted definition. Therefore, we begin by attempt-
`ing to develop a few standard definitions. We hope to better define the concept by
`discussing four different dimensions of multifunctionality: performance-oriented
`multifunctionality, ingredient-based multifunctionality, situational multifunction-
`ality, and claims-driven multifunctionality.
`
`1 PERFORMANCE-ORIENTED MULTIFUNCTIONALITY
`
`Multifunctionality based on performance is probably the type that first comes to
`mind. Products employing this type of multifunctionality are unequivocally
`designed to perform two separate functions. One of the most obvious examples of
`this kind of multifunctionality is the self-proclaimed two-in-one shampoo that is
`intended to simultaneously cleanse and condition hair. This type of formulation
`was pioneered by Proctor & Gamble with Pert Plus in the late 1970s. Pert contains
`ammonium lauryl sulfate as the primary cleansing agent, along with silicone fluid
`and cationic polymers as the conditioning ingredients. Proctor & Gamble
`researchers found a way to combine these materials in a way that allows concur-
`rent washing and conditioning of the hair. The result is a product that is able to
`offer consumers the legitimate benefit of saving time in the shower because it
`eliminates the need for a separate conditioner. Thus Pert has become a classic
`example of a multifunctional personal care product.
`In a somewhat different context, antiperspirant/deodorants (APDs) also
`exhibit multifunctional performance. To appreciate this example, the reader must
`understand that “antiperspirant/deodorants” are very different from “deodorants.”
`Deodorants are designed solely to reduce body odor through use of fragrance that
`masks body odor and antibacterial agents that control the growth of odor-causing
`microbes. Because they are designed to reduce odor only, deodorant are mono-
`functional products. Antiperspirants, on the other hand, contain active ingredients
`(various aluminum salts) that physiologically interact with the body to reduce the
`amount of perspiration produced. Because these aluminum compounds also help
`control bacterial growth, antiperspirants are truly multifunctional: they control
`body odor and reduce wetness. In this context, it is interesting to note that all
`antiperspirants are deodorants but not all deodorants are antiperspirants. We also
`point out that since these aluminum salts are responsible both product functions,
`they could be considered multifunctional ingredients—this type of multifunction-
`ality is discussed later in the chapter.
`This principle of performance-oriented multifunctionality has been applied
`to almost every class of cosmetic product. For example, the number of makeup
`products that make therapeutic claims is increasing. One trade journal, Global
`Cosmetics Industry, noted three cosmetic products that combine the benefit of a
`
`

`

`Definitions and Principles
`
`3
`
`foundation makeup with a secondary benefit. Avon’s Beyond Color Vertical Lift-
`ing Foundation is also said to be effective against sagging facial skin, Clinique
`claims that The City Cover Compact Concealer also protects skin from sun dam-
`age, and Elizabeth Arden’s Flawless Finish Hydro Light Foundation adds
`ceramides, sunscreen, and an α-hydroxy acid (AHA) to smooth and protect skin.
`Global Cosmetics Industry anticipates that the combination of multifunctional
`claims, combined with strong brand names and affordable prices, will allow such
`products to thrive in the coming years. A number of other examples are cited in
`Tables 1–8.
`
`TABLE 1 Multifunctional Hair Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`Pert Plus Shampoo and Conditioner
`Provides a light level of conditioning
`Gently cleanses the hair
`L’Oréal Colorvive Conditioner
`Up to 45% more color protection
`Keeps color truer, hair healthier
`Conditions without dulling or weighing hair down
`Ultra Swim Shampoo Plus
`Effectively removes chlorine and chlorine odor
`With rich moisturizing conditioners
`Jheri Redding Flexible Hold Hair Spray
`Holds any hair style in place flexibly
`Leaves hair so healthy it shines
`
`TABLE 2 Multifunctional Soaps and Bath Products and Manufacturers’
`Claims
`
`Dove Nutrium
`Restores and nourishes
`Dual formula
`Skin-nourishing body wash
`Goes beyond cleansing and moisturizing to restore and nourish
`FaBody Wash
`Moisturizers that feed the body and exotic fragrances that fuel the
`senses
`Nourishes the skin
`Cleans without drying
`Dial Anti bacterial Hand Sanitizier
`Contains moisturizers
`Kills some germs
`
`

`

`4
`
`Romanowski and Schueller
`
`TABLE 3 Multifunctional Skin Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`Body @ Best All of You Gel Lotion
`White lotion and clear red glitter
`To moisturize and give a hint of glitter
`Biore Facial Cleansing Cloth
`Cleanses
`Exfoliates
`Noxema Skin Cleanser
`Cleanses
`Moisturizes
`Nair Three-in-One cream
`Depiliates
`Exfoliates
`Moisturizes
`
`TABLE 4 Multifunctional Makeup Products and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`L’Oréal Hydra Perfect Concealer
`Foundation makeup
`Protects and hydrates with a sun-protection factor (SPF) factor of 12
`Revlon Age-Defying All-Day Lifting Foundation
`Helps visibly lift fine lines away
`Skin looks smoother and softer
`Ultraviolet protection helps prevent new lines from forming
`L’Oréal Color Riche Luminous Lipstick
`Rich color with lasting shine
`Moisturizes for hours, enriched with vitamin E
`Hydrating lip color
`Almay Three-in-One Color Stick
`Accents lips, cheeks, and eyes in a few quick strokes
`The perfect tool that does it all
`Moisturizing color glides on smoothly
`Neutrogena Skin Clearing Makeup
`Actually clears blemishes
`Controls shine and is a foundation makeup
`
`TABLE 5 Multifunctional AntiPerspirant/Deodorant Products
`and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`Mitchum Super Sport Clear Gel Antiperspirant and Deodorant
`Antibacterial odor protection
`Clinically proven to provide maximum protection against wetness
`Arrid XX Antiperspirant Gel
`Antibacterial formula works to help kill germs
`Advanced wetness protection
`
`

`

`Definitions and Principles
`
`5
`
`TABLE 6 Multifunctional Nail Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`Sally Hanson Hard As Nails
`Helps prevent chipping splitting and breaking
`Enhances color
`Restructurizing strengthens and grows nails
`Moisturizing protection and ultrahardening formula
`Sally Hanson Double-Duty Strengthening Base and Topcoat
`All-in-one moisturizing basecoat
`Protective shiny topcoat
`
`TABLE 7 Multifunctional Oral Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims
`
`Colgate Total
`Helps prevent
`Cavities
`Gingivitis
`Plaque
`Crest Multi-Care
`Fights cavities
`Protects against cavities
`Fights tartar buildup
`Leaves breath feeling refreshed
`Aqua-Fresh Triple Protection
`Cavity protection
`Tartar control
`Breath freshening
`Arm & Hammer’s Dental Care Baking Soda Gum
`Whitens teeth
`Freshens breath
`Reduces plaque by 25%
`Listerine antiseptic mouthwash
`Kills germs that cause
`Bad breath
`Plaque
`Gingivitis
`Polydent Double-Action Denture Cleanser
`Cleans tough stains
`Controls denture odor
`Keeps user feeling clean all day
`
`

`

`6
`
`Romanowski and Schueller
`
`TABLE 8 Miscellaneous Multifunctional Products and Manufacturers’
`Claims
`
`Coppertone Bug Sun
`Sunscreen with insect repellent
`Offers convenient dual protection in one bottle for total outdoor skin
`protection
`Protects from harmful UV rays while it also repels mosquitoes
`and other pests
`Moisturizes
`Allergans Complete Comfort Plus Multi purpose Contact Solution
`Cleans and rinses
`Disinfects
`Unique package stores lens
`Quinsana Plus Antifungal Powder
`Cures athlete’s foot and jock itch
`Absorbing powder helps keep skin dry
`Mexana Medicated Powder
`Antiseptic
`Protectant
`Gold Bond Medicated Lotion
`Moisturizes dry skin
`Relieves itch
`Soothes and protects
`Pampers Rash Guard Diapers
`Absorbs moisture
`Clinically proven to help protect against diaper rash
`
`2 INGREDIENT-BASED MULTIFUNCTIONALITY
`There is a second class of multifunctionality that does not require a product to
`perform multiple tasks. Even though a product is monofunctional, it may contain
`ingredients that perform more than one function. There are many examples of this
`type of multifunctionality. Consider that certain fragrance ingredients also have
`preservative properties. And conversely, phenoxyethanol, chiefly used for its pre-
`servative properties, also imparts a rose odor to products. To a certain extent
`many, if not most, cosmetic ingredients are “accidentally” multifunctional. For
`example, the ingredients used in skin lotions to emulsify the oil phase compo-
`nents (fatty alcohols such as cetyl and stearyl alcohol) also serve to thicken the
`product. In fact, some of these ingredients have emolliency properties as well.
`Therefore, in this example, a single ingredient could serve three functions in a
`given product. Likewise in a detergent system, the surfactants that provide foam-
`ing properties also thicken the product. While ingredient-based multifunctional-
`
`

`

`Definitions and Principles
`
`7
`
`ity may seem trivial, it can provide a way to leverage new claims by using an
`existing formula.
`In addition, using multifunctional ingredients allows formulators to prepare
`products more efficiently and economically. This approach is useful when one is
`formulating “natural” products that have fewer “chemicals.” Since many con-
`sumers think that a long ingredient list means that the product has too many harsh
`chemicals, using fewer ingredients that perform multiple functions may help make
`the product more appealing to the consumer. In addition, products formulated with
`fewer ingredients may be less expensive and easier to manufacture.
`
`3 SITUATIONAL MULTIFUNCTIONALITY
`
`Another dimension of multifunctionality is exemplified by products that claim to
`be functional in multiple situations. For example, consider a product whose pri-
`mary function is to fight skin fungus. Yet, such a product may claim to cure both
`athlete’s foot and jock itch. The function is the same (both maladies are caused by
`a fungus), but the situation of use is different, thus essentially making the product
`multifunctional.
`In addition to the situational uses explicitly described by marketers, con-
`sumers tend to find alternate uses for products on their own. At least one published
`study [1] has indicated that consumers find multiple uses for products for three pri-
`mary reasons: convenience, effectiveness, and cost. Savvy marketers have learned
`to exploit such alternate situational uses to help differentiate their products in the
`marketplace. An understanding of situational multifunctionality can help support
`advertising that promotes new uses for old brands. Wansink and Gilmore found
`that in some cases, it may be less expensive to increase the usage frequency of cur-
`rent users than to convert new users in a mature market [2]. Defining multifunc-
`tional benefits for a product can help revitalize mature brands, and there are
`numerous examples of brands that have energized their sales by advertising new
`usage situations. For example, Arm & Hammer Baking Soda was once primarily
`known for use in baking. But sales dropped as people began using more prepack-
`aged baked goods. Church & Dwight responded by marketing the brand as a
`deodorizer for refrigerators, and sales skyrocketed. More recently the manufac-
`turer has also promoted the use of baking soda in products such as toothpastes and
`antiperspirants in an attempt to make more compelling deodorization claims for
`these products.
`It is interesting to note that consumers tend not to stray across certain usage
`lines when using products in alternate situations. They are not likely to use a
`household product for cosmetic purposes and vice versa. Wansink and Ray [2],
`who explain consumers’ tendency to use products in similar contexts (i.e., foods
`as foods and cleaners as cleaners) from a psychological standpoint, say there are
`mental barriers that consumers are hesitant to cross, particularly for products used
`
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`8
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`Romanowski and Schueller
`
`in or on their bodies, such as foods and beauty products. Consumers do not like to
`think that the Vaseline Petroleum Jelly they use to remove makeup can also work
`as a lubricatant for door hinges. Cosmetic scientists must be aware of these men-
`tal barriers when attempting to exploit situational multifunctionality.
`
`4 CLAIMS-DRIVEN MULTIFUNCTIONALITY
`
`Sometimes marketers simply list multiple, exploitable benefits of a product. For
`example, a shampoo is primarily designed to cleanse hair but it also leaves hair
`smelling fresh and sexy? While this secondary benefit may seem trivial to the for-
`mulator, it may be an important fact that the marketer can choose to exploit. Such
`“trivial” benefits can make good label copy claims, and we urge the reader to con-
`sider these secondary product benefits when helping marketing to develop claims.
`Similarly, copy writers may dissect a single performance benefit to make it
`sound more impressive. For example, advertising claims that describe a product’s
`ability to soften and smooth hair, and make it more manageable, are essentially
`referring to the single technical benefit of conditioning. While this distinction
`might seem unimportant to the formulator, it is of paramount importance to mar-
`keters because it allows them to differentiate their product from the competition.
`Formulators should strive to leverage their knowledge of formula characteristics
`and look for “hidden” claims that may be useful in marketing. Chemists need to
`recognize that it is not necessary to base every claim to multifunctionality on
`quantifiable performance differences.
`
`5 WHY MULTIFUNCTIONALITY IS SO POPULAR
`
`5.1 Increasing Consumer Expectations
`
`In the opinion of the authors, multifunctional products are becoming increasingly
`popular for three key reasons: increasing consumer expectations, maturing cos-
`metic technology, and expanding marketing demands. The first reason is related to
`consumers’ desire for products that can perform more than one function; people
`are demanding more performance from products of all types. This trend can be
`seen in many product categories beyond personal care: sport–utility vehicles are
`cars that also behave like trucks; computers are not just calculating devices but are
`also entertainment centers that play CDs and DVDs; telephones are not just for
`verbal communication, they are capable of scanning and faxing documents. Today
`even a simple stick of chewing gum is expected to perform like a cavity-fighting
`sword of dental hygiene. The same set of growing expectations has affected the
`market for personal care products as well. While shampoos were once expected to
`simply cleanse hair, the simultaneous delivery of conditioning or color protection
`benefits as well is anticipated in many cases.
`
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`Definitions and Principles
`
`5.2 Maturing Technology
`
`9
`
`A second factor driving the rise of multifunctional personal care products has to
`do with the level of maturity of the technology used to create cosmetics. As cos-
`metic science has matured, it has become increasingly difficult for formulators to
`improve upon any single aspect of a product’s performance. Consider cleansing
`products like shampoos or soap bars. For centuries, all these products were based
`on soaps, which are saponified fatty acids. Because of their surfactant nature,
`soaps are able to remove dirt and grease from a variety of surfaces. However, soaps
`also tend to dry the skin and can combine with hard water ions to form insoluble
`deposits, resulting in the notorious “bathtub ring.” During the 1940s, advances in
`organic chemistry led to synthetic detergents such as sodium lauryl sulfate and
`α-olefin sulfonates, which were vastly superior in performance to soap. Today, the
`majority of cleansing products (including some bar soaps) use synthetic deter-
`gents. Surfactant technology has continued to evolve over the last 50 years, yet the
`same compounds created in the 1940s are still widely used because they are still
`highly functional and economical.
`Surfactant technology has become so sophisticated that most improvements
`are incremental: synthesis chemists may succeed in making new molecules that
`are somewhat milder or that are more easier to manufacture, but it is very difficult
`to produce new raw materials that provide dramatically improved performance
`t