... r___5_j.
`
`
`
`‘ To page 33-50i'kwp 3/94
`
`'
`
`.' mat all the producing countries had
`H 4 me]; best performers with them in the
`T boat this time.This characterized the
`fashions and meant that the overall
`image in each case was more high-
`" quality. if one differentes according
`to
`countries,
`than
`the
`Italians
`and Spaniards showed particular
`strengths. Here, searching for ideas
`was possible and usually fruitful. in
`the case of the Scandinavians, the
`Swedes and the Danes in particular
`showed solid
`and aesthetically
`
`simple ranges.The French made little
`impression, despite Lig ne Roset.This
`country continues to have its prob-
`lem with a contradictory situation.
`Designs which are often of a high
`quality (styling) are accompanied
`by a quality in terms of durability
`which does not always fulfil
`the
`requirements. — The Eastern Euro-
`pean countries again dropped out
`for understandable reasons. The
`exhibits shown were not worth men-
`tioning.
`
`Compendium
`
`in terms of the standard, there was
`evidence of a development often
`complained about. One does not
`show everything one has or can do,
`but what one believes one can
`expect
`from others. This usually
`means “bowing"to largeforeign mar-
`kets, and ultimately the conscious
`giving up of national independence.
`Many Scandinavian manufacturers
`stood out here, as did Italian, Dutch
`and Belgian manufacturers.
`
`Willi Lehmann *
`
`Elastic, moulded spacer fabrics
`
`What are spacer fabrics?
`Spacer fabrics are produced on rib
`raschel machines having two needle
`bars and consist of two separate
`warp-knitted fabrics which are joi-
`ned together, or rather kept apart, by
`spacer yarns. The distance between
`them can be varied by making relat-
`ively simple adjustments to the ma-
`chine; different machine types are
`available, which enable the distance
`between the two components to be
`varied from between two and sixty
`millimetres. Since the spacer yarn is
`usually a monofiiament, different
`compression resistance values can
`be achieved, depending on the count
`of the yarn used, the stitch density
`and the machine gauge. The spacer
`yarns were originally arranged per-
`pendicular to the two outer fabrics,
`but it is now possible to tie them in in a
`V-shaped configuration
`(Fig.
`1).
`When the yarns were arranged per- i
`pendicular, there was always a risk
`that, when pressure was app|ied,the
`yarns would not bend but would
`simply be pushed sideways, and this
`tended to reduce the compression
`resistance. This can present pro-
`blems when trying to mould the fab-
`rics into three-dimensional shapes,
`since a large proportion of the fab-
`ric’s original volume can be lost. The
`
`‘ Willi Lehrnann is the managing director of
`Optotex Maschinen- Entw|cklungs- und Ver-
`triebs-GmbH, D-B8364 Woifegg.
`
`kettenwirk-praxis 3194. ObertshausenIGermany
`
`mouldability can be improved by
`incorporating elastane yarns into the
`two outer fabric components. The
`elasticity of the two layers will then
`enable the tensions resulting from
`the different curvatures between the
`inner and outer layers to be equali-
`zed. Relatively pronounced three-
`dimensional moulded shapes can
`be produced in this way without
`creasing and without any appreci-
`able loss in bulk (Fig. 2).
`{Karl Mayer GmbH holds patents pro-
`tecting the production and moulding
`of these fabrics. Ed.)
`
`Why moulded spacer fabrics?
`Apparel fabrics in particular often
`have to follow difficult shapes. Tradi-
`tionaily, this is done by skilful cutting
`with seams and darts. A three-
`
`dimensional garment is thus pro-
`duced from the fabric which, more or
`less, follows the shape of the human
`body. When seaming spacer fabrics,
`two double-thickness fabrics would
`lie on top of each other, which not
`only makes it difficult to keep the
`seams neat and pucker—free, they
`would also be bulkyand the contours
`would not be straight
`Forthis reason, it is better to produce
`the required shape by moulding
`ratherthan bysewing, especiailywith
`pronounced shapes such as bra
`pads. In this case, the pads are sha-
`ped by applying pressure and then
`stabilized by heat treatment. Excel-
`
`lent results can be achieved by
`following certain technical and pro-
`cessing guidelines.
`
`Where can elastic, moulded
`spacer fabrics be used?
`The most obvious end-use for these
`fabrics is in foundation 9arments.ln
`the Far East in particular, the vast
`majority of bras contain either fibrefill
`orfoam pads. However, forsome time
`now, there has been a demand for
`elastic pads and this demand can
`now be met by elastic spacerfabrics.
`For this application, the thickness
`should be between 3 and 6 mm. Not
`only does this new material adapt
`better to the shape of the human
`body,
`it also has better heat and
`moisture exchange characteristics
`and is much lighter than conven-
`tional padding. These materials can
`also help to reduce costs, since the
`outer face can be patterned in many
`different patterns and can be given a
`velour surface.
`They can also be used as pads for
`swimwear. The pads for most types
`of swimwear are made out of plastic
`or foam which is covered with fabric.
`The plastic cups are hard and
`uncomfortable. Foam absorbs water,
`takes along time to dry, and is only
`resistant to chlorine and seawater to
`a limited extent. On the other hand,
`pads made from elastic spacer fab-
`rics are flexible, dry quickly, and are
`resistant to all external influences.
`
`E19
`
` aid, this
`
`ething
`. of the
`of fab.-
`iduced
`icularly
`i again
`lstered
`so the
`at the
`
`They
`actual
`toes of
`
`arcent-
`k-and-
`nci pile
`groups
`leaving
`i in the
`re pat-
`is con-
`
`(nylon
`ring in
`mostly
`rey are
`rrers of
`ithere,
`c con-
`V.
`
`E 5 i
`
`I I
`
`4
`rat this
`re fact
`
`iermany
`
`
`
`IPR2017-00351
`Fredman EX1040 Page 1
`
`

`
`
`
`Compendium
`
`To page 33-50 rkwp
`
`They can also be produced in any
`colour required.
`The fabrics can also be used as
`shoulder pads. liifith a distance of 15
`mm between the two outer fabrics
`
`and a high compression resistance,
`the shoulderpads can be moulded in
`a single process. The spacer fabrics
`can also be used as seat pads for
`cycling shorts and as protective
`pads in sportswear. Because they
`are breathable and lightweight, they
`can be used as padding for large
`areas without hampering the athle-
`r tes' movements.
`
`What are the advantages of
`warp-knitted spacer fabrics?
`Since the spacer fabrics can be pro-
`duced in one operation, there is no
`longer any need to carry out the lam-
`inating
`and bonding processes
`which are necessary when produc-
`ing conventional materials, and this
`can reduce costs in the long term.
`However, the most important thing is
`that they offer improved wear com-
`fort, since they are flexible, have bet-
`ter heat and moisture exchange
`properties, and dry quickly.
`An important advantage is that spa-
`cer fabrics are solely a textile prod-
`£1. They contain polyester, nylon
`and elastane which are widely used
`
`in the textile industry. if we io-
`foam pads on the other hand,’
`ducing the foam creates envi”
`mentaiprobiernsforastartandth
`are exacerbated if the foam is to, ,,
`
`operate such systems nowadays. 1‘
`to install new ones.
`'
`
`The samples shown to a number
`companies have been very weir
`received bythem.We are certain that
`these articles will soon be in wides--'
`pread use and will quickly becomea,
`standard feature of foundation gar.
`ments and swimwear.
`'
`
`
`
`Developments + Tendencies
`To page 50-82 I kwp 3194
`
`-N
`
`.
`
`‘widely i“
`' approa:
`modern
`‘neglect
`.,
`‘ natural
`
`
`
`MRCJ 22/1.’
`
`“Contourette” net curtain with a base and ribbon effects
`
`As the photograph taken during pro-
`duction on the MRCJ 22/1 shows, a
`net curtain with a base has also been
`
`developed on the new "Contourette"
`net curtain machine. The base or
`pedestal pattern cfthe “Contourette”
`curtain shown here is clearly raised,
`whereas the supplementary patterns
`merge into the background. This
`three- dimensional patterning is
`achieved through the interplay of the
`multi— bar guide bars and the jac-
`quard mechanism. While the base/
`pedestal motifs are formed by the
`guide baryarns and stand out in bold
`relief, the yarns controlled bythe jac-
`quard bar are kept
`in the back-
`ground.This produces an interesting
`pattern effect over the whole surface
`of the net curtain which continues
`
`from the raised contour pattern in the
`base via the motifs in the background
`right up to the unpatterned ground in
`the top part of the net curtain.
`if the pedestal net curtain is exami-
`ned in detail, the ribbon patterning
`becomes
`apparent;
`this
`looks
`deceptively simiiarto a ribbon laid in
`to produce high/low effects. With
`
`E20
`
`these details the pedestal curtain
`acquires an appearance reminisc-
`ent of high-quality neediework.
`The same method of patterning has
`been used to produce a rectangular
`tablecloth, the edges of which have
`the same pattern as the curtain base.
`As a set forthe living room, consisting
`of a net curtain with a base and a
`tablecloth, this is certainly an inter-
`esting sales point in the trade and/or
`the household textile sector.To facili-
`tate thermal cutting of the warp-knit-
`ted fabric into individual tablecloths
`the goods are provided with a special
`selvedge for cutting.
`The MRCJ 22/1 "Contourette" net
`
`curtain machine, which was introdu-
`ced in “kettenwirk-praxis” 2/94, pp.
`5-8, combines the advantages of the
`muiti-bar raschel machine with jac-
`quard technology. The main feature
`of the net curtains produced on this
`machine is the raised contour (out-
`line) patterning without there being
`any need for a fall—p|ate. The three-
`dimensionai pattern is produced by
`locating the jacquard bar in the rear
`position (L 22) in combination with
`
`the 20 pattern bars in front, as well as
`the ground barin the frontmost posi-
`tion (L 1). Pattern preparation and
`control are effected electronically, so
`that the pattern data forthe jacquard
`mechanism and the guide bars can
`be transferred rapidlyto the produc-
`tion machine.At450/m the “Ccntou-
`rette"MRCJ 22/1 is extremelyprofita-
`b|e.The excellent handling both dur-
`ing yarn loading — all the pattern and
`jacquard yarns are drawn off the
`creel — and when changing the
`ground bar, which is
`located in
`the frontmost position, contribute
`towards this profitability.
`
`,.,,
`
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`kettenwirk-praxis 3/94, oi:FiRa2eg.rp7rmg.03 -
`
`Fredman EX1040 Pag
`
`IPR2017-00351
`Fredman EX1040 Page 2