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`
`ENCYCLOPEDIA OF
`TEXTILES
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`'
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`Judith Jerde
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`0002
`
`a Facts OnFile
`New York ' Oxford
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`
`
`0002
`
`

`

`
`
`
`
`Encyclopedia of Textiles
`Copyright © 1992 byJudithjerde
`
`All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any
`means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage
`or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher. For information contact:
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`Facts On File, lnc.
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`Library of Congress Cataloging—in—Publication Data
`Jerde,]udith
`Encyclopedia of textiles/Judith jerde.
`p.
`cm.
`Includes bibliographical references and index.
`ISBN 0-8160-2105-8
`1. Textile fabrics—Dictionaries.
`T81309J47 1992
`677’.003-——dc20
`
`I. Title.
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`91-20756
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`
`
` WOOL 241
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`as keratin are composed of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen,
`nitrogen and sulfur, whereas the cellulosic fibers from
`which many textiles are made do not contain the latter
`two elements. When viewed through a microscope, wool
`fiber looks like a rod that gently tapers from root to tip,
`and is unmistakably characterized by scales, which are
`called epithelial scales. The scales are important, because
`they act as a protective covering for the fiber, which
`causes wool to be very resistant to wear. The scales are
`covered with two membranes:
`the epicuticle and the
`exocuticle, which greatly affect
`the manner in which
`dyes are received by wool. Until
`the advent of the
`scanning electron microscope, the presence of these two
`very thin membranes was unknown. Now, as a result of
`their discovery, much progress has been made in the
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`Cn‘mp The Wool Bureau, Inc.
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`note is the fact that the Sumerians sold wool throughout
`
`washing and dyeing procedures that are possible with
` wool.
`In contrast to cotton and other cellulosic fibers, wool
`is distinguished also by crimps in the fiber, sometimes as
`many as 30 per inch of length. These crimps create many
`tiny air pockets which impart to wool a resilient, spongy
`texture. This in turn gives wool a great degree of thermal
`insulation per weight of fabric. It also gives wool the
`ability to absorb a great deal of water before it becomes
`saturated. This is a source of additional warmth in a
`garment, since the wearer remains dry until the fabric
`reaches saturation.
`Wool has been valued for centuries because of its
`unique characteristics that set it apart from other fibers.
`lt resists dirt,
`it is flame resistant, and because of its
`absorptive qualities for water it resists the build—up of
`static electricity. Further,
`it resists both tearing and
`abrading, as well as snagging, pilling and crocking.
`
`History
`There is historical evidence that wool is one of the first
`fibers to have been made into textiles. It is well known
`that wool existed in Babylonia as early as 4000 B.C.
`Indeed, it is interesting to note that the word Babylonia
`means Land of Wool. Sheep were raised and sold in
`ancient Mesopotamia to such a large extent that wool
`making could be described as a major industry. Also of
`
`the known world in these early times. Around 2000 B.C.,
`the Phoenicians not only traded wool but also introduced
`the art of weaving in the Mediterranean area.
`In AD. 45, the Romans are credited with having bred a
`new strain of sheep that would come to have great and
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`W001 cross section The W001 Bureau’ Inc
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