100th
`Anniversary
`Edition
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`% ij/JQBW
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`CTI 0 NARY
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`PHYLLIS G. TORTORA
`INGRID JOHNSON
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`BLO_OMSBURY
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`Bedgear2005
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`Fred man v. Bedgear
`|PR2017-00351
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`Bedgear 2005
`Fredman v. Bedgear
`IPR2017-00351
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`Phyllis G. Tortora l Ingrid Johnson
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`Fairchild Books
`An Imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.
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`Fairchild Books
`
`An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc
`
`1385 Broadway
`New York
`NY 10018
`USA
`
`50 Bedford Square
`London
`WClB 3DP
`UK
`
`www.bloomsbury. com
`
`Fifth edition published 1967
`Sixth edition published 1979
`Seventh edition published 1996
`This edition first published 2014. Reprinted 2014 (twice)
`
`© Bloomsbury Publishing Inc, 2014
`
`All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic
`or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission
`in writing from the publishers.
`
`No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the
`material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury Publishing Inc or the author.
`
`Library of Congress Cataloging-in—Publication Data
`A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress
`2013938686
`
`ISBN: HB: 978-1—6090~1535—0
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`Typeset by Precision Graphics
`Cover Design Carly Grafstein
`Printed and bound in the United States of America
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`performance property / pernyl
`
`interlacings and emphasized by leaving some dents
`empty in the reed.
`
`performance property Any chemical or physical char—
`acteristic of a textile that is evaluated during wear
`testing.
`
`performance specification List of requirements to be
`met by a product intended for a particular end use.
`There are standard ASTM performance specifications
`for fabrics to be used in many types of apparel, furnish-
`ings, and other end products. They are used as the basis
`for acceptance testing and quality control.
`perigon hair
`See CATTAIL.
`
`1. Formerly applied to fibers obtained from
`perini fiber
`hibiscus plants, including those such as ambari, roselle,
`and majagua. See also KENAF. 2. A bast fiber obtained
`from Canhamo braziliensis perino in Brazil. Possesses
`some of the qualities of flax and has been suggested as
`a substitute.
`
`periodicity Regularly recurring defect or change in size
`n a yarn or fabric.
`
`perished staple A weak cotton staple with strength re—
`duced through exposure to any destructive element.
`perkan See BARACAN 1.
`
`Perkin, Sir William Henry English chemist and producer
`of the first synthetic dye, mauveine, in 1856. See BASIC
`DYE, MAUVE.
`
`Perkin's violet
`
`See MAUVE.
`
`perle A finishing process used on woolen dress fabrics
`that raises the nap in the form of dots. Derived from the
`French word perle’, meaning “resembling pearls.”
`perle cotton See PEARL COTTON.
`
`perlin
`
`(British usage) Scottish lace. See BUNT LACE.
`
`Perlok process A process whereby bundles of continu.
`ous filament tow are converted through breaking or cut—
`ting into a top or sliver. It was t. e basis of several other
`Tow CONVERTING systems. Originally the tow employed
`in the process was rayon, later acetate, acrylic, nylon,
`and polyester fiber. Developed 3y RH. Hood Company
`and Turbo Machine Company.
`
`Permafresh® A trademark for a ‘hermosetting reactant
`that is applied to cellulosic and blend fabrics to contrib—
`ute wrinkle resistance and minimum care. This finish is
`applied from an aqueous solution together with a cata—
`lyst and, when dry, the fabric is c red to set the finish.
`
`Permanent Care Labeling Requ'rement of the Federal
`Trade commission that wearing apparel must carry
`
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`450
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`0004
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`permanently affixed labels giving instructions for care.
`“Permanent” means the label will stay legible through—
`out its useful life whether attached or printed directly
`on the product. See CARE INSTRUCTION, CARE LABELEING
`or TEXTILE WEARING APPAREL.
`
`permanent deformation the net long-term Change in a
`dimension of a specimen after deformation and relax-
`ation under specified conditions (ASTM). Synonyms:
`nonrecoverable deformation, permanent growth, permanent
`set, secondary creep.
`
`permanent finish A misnomer, because in most cases
`finishes are not completely permanent. The words resis—
`tant or durable, which are approved by the Federal Trade
`Commission, are more accurate.
`
`permanentgrowth Synonym:PERMANENTDEFORMATION.
`permanent press
`See DURABLE PRESS.
`
`1. (British usage) Piece-dyed, lightweight
`permanents
`cotton cloth often given a lustrous finish. 2. Lightweight
`cotton fabric that is fast dyed.
`
`permanent set
`
`See PERMANENT DEFORMATION.
`
`permanent starchless finish A finishing process that
`impregnates a fabric with a stiffening material that is
`not dissolved in laundering. The cloth returns to its
`original crispness when ironed.
`
`permanis cotton A medium length, wiry cotton grown
`in Pernambuco, Brazil.
`
`permeability The ability of a material to allow gases or
`liquids to flow through it.
`
`permo British dress goods made with hard twist, two—
`ply warp (one singles yarn of cotton and the other of
`mohair). The mohair warp, because of the soft twist, is
`too weak for weaving and the cotton yarn is used to give
`the requisite strength. The woven fabric is carbonized to
`remove the cotton and the result is a lustrous fabric with
`a crepe effect. Synonyms: mohlaine, resilda.
`
`pernambuco cotton A strong, wiry, light-gold Brazil‘
`ian cotton, obtained from Gossypium peruvianum. Culti—
`vated in and around Pernambuco, the part for which it
`is named.
`
`pernambuco wood See BRAZILWOOD.
`
`pernam cotton A peruvian cotton obtained from Gossy-
`pium peruvianum in the Andes Mountain regions.
`
`pernyl A wild silkworm of China, Antheraea pernyi. It
`feeds on oak leaves and produces a large yellowish or
`brownish cocoon.
`
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`porcupine / potting
`
`was used. Done with water colors instead of pigments in
`oil, or varnish.
`
`porcupine A toothed cylinder or shaft that draws com—
`pleted lace fabric away from the production zone of a
`lace machine.
`
`porgee A coarse, plain weave silk fabric made on hand
`looms in India.
`
`sheet material
`[pohr’—oh—mair~ik] Porous
`poromeric
`having a microscopic open—celled structured membrane
`that allows water vapor to transfer but not liquid. The
`material typically is made of polyester with micro pores
`to permit the transport of perspiration. See ULTRA-
`SUEDE®, GORE—TEX®.
`
`porosity The ratio of the volume of air or void contained
`within the boundaries of a material to the total volume
`
`(solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a percentage
`(ASTM). See AIR CONDITIONING FABRIC.
`
`port cabello cotton A variety of cotton from Venezuela.
`
`(French) In the 17th— and 18th—century
`ooporte ole paris
`referred to a variety of fabrics including moquette, SAT-
`IN DE BRUGES, and bergamo. The term came into trade
`usage about 1650 from the city where these fabrics were
`sold. See also BERGAMO 2., MOUQUETTE 3.
`
`porter yarn A two—ply warp yarn used for gunny sacks.
`See GUNNY CLOTH.
`
`portland sheep A variety of DORSET SHEEP raised in
`Portland, England.
`
`porto rico cotton See PUERTO RICO COTTON.
`
`port phillip wool Wool that is grown in the southern
`part of Victoria, Australia and the shipped through the
`ports of Melbourne and Geelong. Port Phillip is a large
`bay on the southern coast of Victoria between these two
`cities.
`
`POS Acronym for POINT or SALE.
`
`posahuanco A colorful, handloomed cotton shirt fabric
`used in Central America and Mexico. Used as a wrap—
`around skirt in blue, red, and purple; dyes are from
`natural sources.
`
`positive control Mechanically driven (as opposed to
`passive) control of such textile machine motions as yarn
`winding.
`
`positive feed Provision of predetermined lengths of
`yarn to the needles in a weft knitting machine.
`
`postboarding Boarding hosiery after dyeing to assure
`durable shape setting. Presently, virtually synonymous
`with BOARDING.
`
`post cure Synonym for DEFERRED CURE.
`
`poster cloth A bleached or greige drill cloth given a
`smooth—faced, heavily starched,
`back—filled finish.
`Sometimes impregnated with pyroxylin to make it
`weather and vermin proof. Uses: some forms of outdoor
`advertising posters and displays.
`
`poster rug A rag rug with landscape, floral, or other pat—
`terns and with borders in several colors.
`
`postin A napped woolen fabric in plain weave or twill
`made in West Bengal and Bangladesh. Uses: lining.
`
`pot A measure of length, generally 10,000 yds. (9,144 m),
`which is used for pieces of linen that are sewn together
`in these units prior to bleaching.
`
`pota As used in the Solomon Islands, a species of PANDA—
`NUS used for fine mats.
`
`potassium chromate Potassium salt used as a mordant
`in dyeing and printing.
`
`[puh—tas’—ee—uhm puhr'
`potassium permanganate
`man’—gan—ayt] Oxidizing agent, which is traditionally
`used for STRIPPING dyed woolen and worsted fabrics.
`Recently, potassium permanganate solutions have been
`used to impregnate pumice stones that are used for
`STONE WASHING garments to produce effects variously
`referred to as acid washed, ice washed, white washed.
`
`potassium soap See SOAP.
`
`pot box See CAKE.
`
`pot eye Doughnut—shaped ceramic disk used as a guide
`for yarn or for fabric in rope form.
`
`pot lace Synonym for POTTEN KANT.
`
`pot spinning One method of making viscose process
`rayon. The rayon yarn is deposited on the inside of a
`container (“pot") that revolves at high speed. The cen—
`trifugal force causes the yarn to form a CAKE on the wall
`of the pot. It is removed after reaching a thickness of
`about 1 in. (2.5 cm), generally desulfured and washed in
`this form, and then shipped to textile mills for winding
`onto cones or beams as needed.
`
`potten kant Characteristic pattern of Antwerp lace,
`consisting of a pot or vase and conventionalized flow—
`ers. Originally, the pattern pictured the Annunciation.
`Synonym: point kant. See ANTWERP LACE 1.
`
`pottery duck An army—type duck made with a fine, even
`weave. Used to filter clays in the manufacture of pottery.
`See DUCK.
`
`potting (British usage) Wet decating. See DECATING 1.
`
`476
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