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`."3‘a
`
`Copyright ((2‘) 1979, Macmillan Publishing Cow Inc.
`Printed in the. Uniled States of America
`
`All rights reserved. N0 part of th‘m book may be reproduced or
`transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
`including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and
`mtrieval $ysliem‘ without permlr‘sion in writing from the Publisher.
`
`Earlier editions (if) 1955 and copyright © 1964,
`1968! and 1973 by Macmillan Publishing Co.‘ Inc
`Some material on l‘alzriczz © 1952 by Norma
`Hollen and Jane Saddler in Modern Textiles
`
`Macn'rlllau ’Puhlighing 00., Inc.
`866‘ Third Avenue, New York, New York 10022
`Collier Macmillan Canada, Ltd.
`
`Library 02‘ Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
`
`Hollen, Norma R.
`'lfextiles.
`
`Includes bibliographical references and index.
`1. Textile industry, 2. Textile fibers.
`3. ’I‘extile fabrics‘ I. Saddler, Jane, joint author.
`IL Langford, Anna L., joint. author. Ill. Title‘
`TSMthJ-‘IS 1979
`87'?
`78—6081
`ISBN 0vl)2—35l3ll30—0
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`Printing:
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`
`
`;;
`5
`l
`
`a:
`
`'
`
`"
`
`
`
`Singlo needle, single coursa
`tuck stixch
`
`Fig. 25—8 Tuck stitch. ( Iowrlcsy 0/" Knitting Times,
`mfi‘z‘cz’a! publication. of National Knitted Oulerwear
`Association.)
`
`The word jersqy comes from the Isle of Jersey
`in the English Channel. It is applied to (1) the
`.
`.
`.
`.
`.
`.
`plain weft—knit stitch, (2) a Single-knit fabric—v
`mthei‘ warp or well: knit, and (.3) a pullover
`sweater
`is
`The Single jersey structure or plain knit
`ividelv used becauée ii; is the fastest method of
`weft knitting and is méde on the leasL compli~
`'
`‘
`‘
`Gated knitting machine.
`End uses for plain knit structures include ho~
`sier , underwear of cotton or blends shirts T~
`y
`’
`’
`shirts, dresses, and sweaters.
`
`'
`
`‘
`
`'
`
`‘
`
`“
`
`,
`,
`l
`N
`m.
`Fig. 25-9 Fabric knitted with tuck stitch.
`
`188 TEXTILES
`
`
`
`F 2an Stitch
`
`Fig. 25-10 Float or miss stitch. (Courtesy of Knitting ‘
`Times, official publicaiicm of National Knitted Outer.
`wear Association.)
`
`
`
`Variations in plain knit are made by program—
`ming the machines to knit stitches 1508331191} t0
`drop stitches, and to use colored yarns to form
`pafiterns or vertical stripes. Extra yarnS or slivers
`are used to make terry cloth, velour, and fake fur
`1‘ b .
`a .I‘ICS.
`used ,0 mak. " rse
`’ v0 slit‘he.‘ c mmonl
`gfif :1 J; Ci;
`til hyd 1 1 :
`vallZiions aim :13:
`.
`S
`L m 1) 88
`C
`I
`‘.
`stitch receives a new yam on a needle but does
`not lose its old l00p and the accumulated yarns
`are knitted 0f} later (Figure 25—8) Fabrics have a
`lofty appearance and Salt hand. Fabrics are less
`extensible; Tuck stitch is used to create blissters or
`9 win] effe it; and to qem re laid in ' rm or lon ’
`‘p
`‘
`‘
`L’
`'”
`C
`“
`'
`l
`.
`3 a
`“
`.
`.é’
`floats of yams on the wrong Blde of the fabrlal
`1.
`.
`.
`.
`A
`bigure 25-9 shows tuck stitches in fabric. Miss
`stitch or float stitch results when a needle is held
`in a nomvorking position as the yarn is placed on
`the working needles. As the yarn is carried past
`the working needles a float (much like that; in
`woven fabrics) is made (Figure 25—10). It is used
`to carry colored yam on the back of fabric for
`knittedvin designs. Miss stitches make fabrics
`much less extensible“
`
`Rib Structure. A rib structure is made of face
`wales and back wales. The lengtliwige ridges are
`formed on both sides of the fabric by p11 lling loops
`first to the face and next to the back of the. cloth.
`In hand knitting, ribs are made by knitting and
`purling. These may be in various combinations
`1 x 1, 2 x 2, 2 x 3, and so on (Figure 25—11).
`Figure 2542 shows a Tvshirt fabric. in rib knit.
`Rib knits have the following properties:
`(1) they have the same appearance on the face
`and back, (2) the fabric has twice the extonsibiliiy ‘
`crosswise as that of single jersey, (3) they do not
`curl at the edges, (4) they run, (5) they unravel
`
`DMC Exhibit 2079_003
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`«$5,: “\Refi\\\
`
`Edited by
`A R Horrocks and S C Anand
`
`The "léxtile Institute
`
`Boca Rafon Boston New York Washington, DC NVWMW,
`
`CRC Press
`
`%
`
`1J
`‘¢1
`WOODHI
`AD PUBLISHINC
`D
`
`LIMITE
`Cambridge England
`
`\3
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`
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`DMC EXhi
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`531
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`

`

`Published by Woodhead Publishin
`
`Abington Hall, Abington
`Cambridge CB1 6AH
`England
`www.woodhead—publishin g.com
`
`g Limited in association with The Textile Institute
`
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`
`
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`
`
`
`Published in North and South Americ
`FL 33431, USA
`Boca Raton
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`a by CRC Press LLC, 2000 Corporate Blvd, NW
`
`hing Ltd and CRC Press LLC
`First published 2000, Woodhead Publis
`© 2000, Woodhead Publishing Ltd except Chapter 16 (£3) MOD
`The authors have asserted their moral rights.
`
`and highly regarded sources.
`lion obtained from authentic
`This book contains informs
`5 are indicated. Reasonable
`Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sou
`formation, but the authors and the
`e data and in
`dc to publish relinbl
`efforts have been the
`of all materials. Neither the authors
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`ibility for the V
`publishers cannot assume respons
`e associated with this publication, shall be liable for any
`nor the publishers, nor anyone els
`directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.
`loss, damage or liability
`be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any
`may
`Neither this book nor any part
`means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by
`any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the
`publishers.
`The consent of Woodhead Publishing and CRC Press does not extend to copying for
`n, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific
`general distribution, for promotio
`tained in writing from Woodhead Publishing or CRC Press for such
`permission must be ob
`copying.
`
`notice: Product or corporate. names may be trademarks or registered
`Trademark
`d only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe.
`trademarks, and are use
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`British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
`is available from the British Library.
`A catalogue record for this book
`
`aloging in Publication Data
`Library of Congress Cat
`available from the Library of Congress,
`A catalog record for this book is
`
`Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 385 4
`CRC Press lSBN 08493-10474
`VVP1047
`CRC Press order number:
`
`olourStudio
`Cover design by The C
`Best—set Typesetter Ltd, Hong Kong
`Typeset by
`St Edmundsbury Press, Suffolk, England
`hinted by
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`DMC Exhibit 2079_005
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`1106 Handbook 0f technical textiles
`
`.
`4k
`Plain single-jersey B
`Plain single—jersey A
`
`Technical Face Technical Back
`
`
`
`
`
`1X1 Rib C
`V
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` O I
` 0 U
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`I
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`Single Tuck Stitch G
`Single Tuck Stitch F
`
`W Feed 3 W Feed 3
`
`5.14 Weft—knitted structures (A—G).
`
`
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`LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY
`3N ASSOCIATION WITH
`DUELL, SLOAN & K’EABCE‘ INC,
`
`'
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`Pt¢bfisllcd :imnltaimmxly in Cmmrlu
`by Litfla, 13mm! (3' Company (Canada) Unified
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`PRINTED JN THE UNITED S'I'A'I’las (3|: AMERICA
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`DMC Exhibit 2079_008
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`KNITTING NEEDLES AND LOOP FORMATIONS AND KNITTING S
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`DMC Exhibit 2079_009
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`
`
`“3
`:1
`§,
`
`
`
`VERLAG EUROPA-LEHRMITTEL Noumey, Vollmer GmbH & Co.
`
`DUs-selbergerStraBe 23 42781 Haan—Gruiten
`
`Europa~an 62218
`
`
`
`DMC Exhibit 2079_O1O
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`

`,
`
`Authors:
`Hannelore Eberle,
`Hermann Hermeling.
`Marianne Hornherger,
`Dieter Menzer,
`Werner Ring.
`
`Senior Lecturer, Gewerbliche Sohule, Ravensburg. Germany
`Principal, Frankfurter Schule flit Bekleidung und lvlode, Germany
`Lecturer, Meisterschule fiir Mode, Munich, Germany
`Lecturer, HuberbSternberg—Sohule, Wiesloch, Germany
`Lecturer, Fachschule i‘t‘rr Bekleidung, Metzingen, Germany
`
`‘
`
`Editor and Team Leader: Roland Kilgus, Principal, Fachshule fur Bekleldung. Metzingen, Germany
`
`Reprographics and Photography: Hans Mengel, Eningen, Germany
`
`Fashion drawings: Studio Salo~DolleL Auikirchen bei Erding, Germany
`
`Picture processing: Design Department, Verlag Europa—Lehrmittel
`
`z,»
`
`
`
`,wmen/gywwwwyWWWwWr
`
`This book was produced according to the lateral German Industrial Standards lDlNrBlé‘itter), Conformance is strictly limited to the
`DleBlétter. The DlN-Blé‘rtter are published by: Beuth-Verlag Gmbl—l, Burggrafensttasse 6, 10787 Berlin.
`
`Fourth German Edition 1995
`Print 5 4 f3
`‘2
`i
`.zrr'
`>
`'
`same edition are interchangeable, excepting correction of printing errors.
`
`.
`
`
`
`
`
`“we internattenei, Dale House, 294 London Road, Hazel Grove, Stockport SK7 40F, UK
`
`
`
`
`
`All rights reserved. This work is subject to copyright. Utilisation for any purpose other than those legally permitted must be
`approved by the publisher in writing
`
`©1995 by Varlag Europalehrmittel, Nourney, Vollmer GmbH 8:, Co., 4278i HaanvGruiten
`Setting and printing: lMO‘Grossdruckerei, 42275 Wuppertal
`
`
`
`DMC Exhibit 2079_O11
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`

`8 Clothing Manufacture
`8.2 Equipment and Methods for
`Design and Cutting
`
`8.22 Grading
`
`Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create larger or smaller sizes The starting
`point can be the smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general shape and ;
`appearance, Computer-aided grading systems utilise internal calculation algorithms (grading rules) for pattern construction,
`
`
`
`Manual Grading
`
` a; aim
`
`1:
`
`rading a front place
`
`The desired range of sizes is created, one by one, using
`a pattern template Marks are made around the master
`pattern at the appropriate distances and the marks are
`later joined up to form the enlarged pattern.
`‘
`
`in this way a full set of templates, the “pattern set", is
`generated
`
`Computer-aided Grading
`
`
`
`we
`
`are
`2: Grading machine
`
`A grading machine eases the task of creating the
`pattern set. The device grips the master pattern and
`displaces it by a precise vertical and horizontal
`distance, after which the appropriate edge can be
`traced,
`
`Computer based grading systems operate in one of
`two ways:
`
`i. The grading increments are fed into the compu
`ter and the different sizes are generated auto—
`matically using the same method as applied for
`manual grading.
`
`The pattern for each individual size is calculated
`separately starting from the data in the size
`charts.
`
`The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed
`to scale on the computer monitor for visuat
`assessment and, if necessary, adjustment.
`
`material.
`
`Once the pattern set has been generated on the
`computer, it may be used in various ways, depend- '
`ing on the level of automation in the factory.
`
`*
`
`in a fully automated system, the garment parts Witt
`be sorted automatically and arranged into a lay plan
`which can then be transmitted in the form of a
`control program to the automatic laying and cutting
`system. Alternatively, the patterns can be sent to a
`large plotting device where they will be drawn at tuii
`scale to serve as paper patterns for manual cutting
`The patterns can also be used in an automatic
`device for cutting templates from more durable
`
`DMC Exhibit 2079_012
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