Circular 454
`March 1994
`
`Care of Plants in the Home1
`Robert J. Black and Richard W. Henley2
`
`Growing plants in the home has become very
`popular in recent years. Plants create an atmosphere
`of warmth and life that cannot be equaled by any
`other home furnishing.
`
`Unfortunately, the environment in many homes is
`not conducive to growing plants. Many homes have
`inadequate light, temperature fluctuations, and low
`humidity. These adverse growing conditions offer a
`real challenge to the homeowner and point out the
`necessity for selecting plants to fit
`the growing
`conditions in the home.
`
`FACTORS AFFECTING PLANT GROWTH
`
`Light
`
`The environment in our homes will dictate which
`plants will grow lavishly or which ones will suffer. No
`other environmental factor is more important in
`growing good plants indoors than adequate light.
`
`intensity
`light
`Plants differ greatly in their
`requirements. Plants with highly colored leaves, such
`as coleus and croton, and flowering plants and
`succulents grow best when placed in an area where
`they receive full
`sunlight.
`Others
`like ferns,
`philodendrons, and many other foliage plants grow
`well with indirect
`light.
`The light
`intensity
`requirements for many foliage plants commonly
`
`grown in the home are given in Table 1. The light
`intensity can be determined with a light meter held at
`the level of the plants’ foliage.
`
`Artificial lighting can be used to supplement or
`replace natural light. Standard cool white and warm
`white fluorescent lamps are good sources of artificial
`light. Most plants grow well and are attractive in
`appearance when placed under a combination of cool
`white and warm white fluorescent lamps or cool white
`and grow-fluorescent lamps. There are a variety of
`grow-fluorescent
`lamps
`available
`from major
`manufacturers.
`
`Fluorescent lamps are available in various sizes,
`shapes and wattage. In addition to the standard lamp
`sizes (15, 20, 30 and 40 watts), higher wattage lamps
`may also be obtained in 48 inch tube lengths and
`longer--up to 96 inches. These higher wattage lamps
`are called high output (HO), very high output
`(VHO), power groove, power tubes, or super-hi
`output lamps. Cool white, one foot square panel
`fluorescent lamps can be obtained in two sizes, 55 and
`80 watts.
`
`Standard industrial fixtures with white enamel or
`white porcelain reflectors are widely used by
`hobbyists. Fixtures that accommodate two 48 inch
`long fluorescent lamps are the most commonly used
`
`1.
`
`This document is Circular 454, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida.
`Publication date: June 1990. Revised: March 1994.
`2. Robert J. Black, consumer horticultural specialist, Environmental Horticulture Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food
`and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville FL 32611. Richard W. Henley, Extension Foilage Specialist, Central Florida
`Research and Education Center, Apopka.
`The use of trade names in this publication is solely for the purpose of providing specific information. It is not a guarantee or warranty of the
`products named, and does not signify that they are approved to the exclusion of others of suitable composition.
`
`The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer authorized to provide research, educational
`information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, sex, age, handicap, or national
`origin. For information on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative Extension Service office.
`Florida Cooperative Extension Service / Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences / University of Florida / John T. Woeste, Dean
`
`SCOTTS EX. 1005
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 2
`
`and inexpensive to buy. Strip or channel fixtures may
`be used with reflectorized fluorescent lamps.
`
`same wattage are interchangeable in fluorescent
`fixtures.
`
`It is important to order fixtures for the specific
`lamps that are to be used in them. Only lamps of the
`
`Table 1. Light Requirements for Some Common Foliage Plants*
`
`Botanical Name
`
`Common Name
`
`Low Light Areas, 50 to 100 fc
`(Location usually more than six feet from windows, no indirect light - dull hallways.)
`Aglaonemacommutatumelegans
`Silver evergreen
`Aglaonemacrispum
`Pewter evergreen
`Aglaonemamodestum
`Chinese evergreen
`Aspidistraelatior
`Cast-iron plant
`Chamaedoreaelegans
`Parlor palm
`Chamaedoreaerumpens
`Bamboo palm
`Crassulaargentea
`Jade plant
`Dracaenaderemensis ’Janet Craig’
`Janet Craig dracaena
`Dracaenaderemensis ’Warneckii’
`Warneckii dracaena
`Dracaenafragrans ’Massangeana’
`Corn plant
`Neoregeliacarolinae ’Tricolor’
`Tricolor bromeliad
`Sansevieriatrifasciata
`Snake plant
`Sansevieriatrifasciata ’Hahnii’
`Birdsnest sansevieria
`Foliage Plants for Medium Light Areas, 100 to 200 fc
`(Location usually three to six feet from windows - average, well lighted areas)
`Asparagusdensiflorus ’Sprengeri’
`Asparagus fern
`Asparagussetaceus
`Fern asparagus
`Begonia x rexcultorum
`Rex begonia
`Brassaiaactinophylla
`Schefflera
`Calatheamakoyana
`Peacock plant
`Caryotamitis
`Fishtail palm
`Chrysalidocarpuslutescens
`Areca palm
`Cissusrhombifolia
`Grape ivy
`Clusearosea
`Clusea
`Dieffenbachiaamoena
`Giant dumbcane
`Dieffenbachia x ’Exotic perfection’
`Exotic perfection dumbcane
`Dizygothecaelegantissima
`False aralia
`Dracaenamarginata
`Red edge dracaena
`Dracaenasanderana
`Sander’s dracaena
`Dracaenasurculosa
`Gold dust plant
`Dracaenathalioides
`Lance dracaena
`Episciacupreata
`Episcia
`Epipremnumaureum
`Golden pothos
`Epipremnumaureum ’Marble Queen’
`Marble Queen pothos
`Ficusbenjamina
`Weeping fig
`Ficusbenjaminanitida
`Patio fig
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 3
`
`Botanical Name
`
`Common Name
`
`Rubber plant
`Ficuselastica ’Decora’
`Fiddle leaf fig
`Ficuslyrata
`English ivy
`Hederahelix
`Wax plant
`Hoyacarnosa
`Chinese fan palm
`Livistonachinensis
`Nerve plant
`Marantaleuconeura ’Kerchoviana’
`Cut-leaf philodendron
`Monsteradeliciosa
`Boston fern
`Nephrolepisexaltata ’Bostoniensis’
`Screw pine, sword plant
`Pandanusveitchii
`Peperomia
`Peperomiaobtusifolia
`Fiddle-leaf philodendron
`Philodendronbipennifolium
`Philodendron
`Philodendronhastatum
`Heart-leaf philodendron
`Philodendronscandensoxycardium
`Pigmy date palm
`Phoenixroebelenii
`Aluminum plant
`Pileacadierei
`Staghorn fern
`Platyceriumbifurcatum
`Victoria table fern
`Pterisensiformis ’Victoriae’
`Spathiphyllum
`Spathiphyllum x Clevelandii
`Nephthytis
`Syngoniumpodophyllum ’Emerald Green’
`Nephthytis
`Syngoniumpodophyllum ’Green Gold’
`Foliage Plants for High Light Areas, Over 200 fc
`(Location usually brightly lighted offices - areas within three feet of large south, east, or west facing windows)
`Aphelandrasquarrosa
`Zebra plant
`Araucariaheterophylla
`Norfolk-island pine
`Beaucarnearecurvata
`Pony tail palm
`Citrofortunellamitis
`Calamondin orange
`Codiaeumvariegatum
`Croton
`Coffeaarabica
`Coffee
`Cordylineterminalis
`Ti plant
`Opuntiaramosissima
`Pencil cactus
`Philodendronscandens subsp. scandens
`Velvet-leaf philodendron
`Philodendronselloum
`Selloum, finger-tip philodendron
`Polysciasbalfouriana ’Marginata’
`Aralia balfouriana
`Polysciasfruticosa
`Ming aralia
`Saintpauliaionantha
`African violet
`Schlumbergerabridgesii
`Christmas cactus
`Note: Botanical names are listed according to HortusThird, a concise dictionary of plants cultivated in the United
`States and Canada, revised and expanded by the Staff of the Liberty Hyde Baily Hortorium, New York State
`University at Cornell University. Macmillan Publishing Co., Inc., 1976.
`
`*
`
`Temperature
`
`A day temperature of 65° to 75° F (18 to 24° C)
`and approximately 10° F lower at night, is satisfactory
`for most plants. The 10 degree drop at night enables
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 4
`
`Plants grown in
`to build new tissues.
`plants
`continuously high temperatures often become spindly
`and less resistant to disease and insect attack.
`
`A sudden temperature drop can injure plants, and
`temperatures below 50° F (10° C) for extended
`periods may cause permanent damage to many plants.
`Wilting often results, followed by yellowing of leaves,
`and then leaf drop. Avoid placing plants in hot or
`cold spots. Few plants do well on top of a television
`set and almost none will survive the blast from a
`heating or air conditioning vent.
`
`Humidity
`
`Most plants grow best at a relative humidity of 40
`to 60 percent. Unfortunately, the average humidity in
`most homes is well below 40 percent, especially
`during winter months when heating systems are
`operating. When the surrounding air is dry, plants
`will often lose water from leaf tissues at a faster rate
`than can be absorbed through the root system. When
`this occurs, leaf tips become brown and flowering
`plants may lose flower buds.
`
`Humidity levels in the home can be increased by
`installing an inexpensive humidifier. Humidity in the
`vicinity of plants can be improved by placing potted
`plants on a two or three inch bed of wet gravel.
`Water evaporating from the gravel
`increases the
`humidity around plants. The bottom of the plant pot
`should never be in or under the water, since this will
`cause a waterlogged soil which may result in root
`damage. Plants will furnish their own humidity when
`many are placed close together.
`
`Air Circulation
`
`Good air circulation is necessary to the well being
`of plants. However, plants should be placed in draft-
`free locations. Areas where cross currents of air
`occur are not considered good for plants.
`
`Clean, gas-free air is desirable for growing plants.
`Escaping gas from stoves and furnaces is sufficient to
`kill plants.
`
`Watering
`
`The amount and frequency of watering depend on
`the following variables:
`
`Potting Mixtures - Organic mixes retain more
`water than sandy mixes.
`
`Pot - Plants in porous (clay) pots require more
`frequent watering than those in nonporous
`(glazed or plastic) pots.
`
`Plants
`- There is a wide range of water
`requirements for different species of plants.
`Some plants should be watered when the potting
`mix becomes dry to the touch while other plants
`need to be watered before the soil becomes
`completely dry.
`
`Plant Size - Plants with a lot of leaves will need
`more frequent watering than those with a few
`leaves.
`
`Humidity - The lower the humidity, the more
`often a plant will need to be watered.
`
`Stage of Growth - When a plant is dormant (not
`actively growing) it will need less water.
`
`The rule to follow in watering is to water when
`necessary. The following methods may be used to
`determine when to water:
`
`Touch - The most accurate gauge to follow is to
`water when the potting mixture becomes dry to
`the touch. Stick your finger into the mix up to
`the first joint; if it is dry at your finger tip, you
`need to water.
`
`Tapping the pot - When the potting mix in a clay
`pot begins to dry, it shrinks away from the sides
`of the pot. Rap the side of the pot with the
`knuckles or a stick: if the sound is dull, the soil is
`moist; if hollow, water is needed.
`
`Estimating Weight - As potting mixtures become
`dry, a definite loss in weight can be observed.
`
`Judging Soil Color - Potting mixtures will change
`from a dark to light color as they dry.
`
`One common cause of indoor plant death is
`improper watering. When the soil remains saturated,
`root systems are unable to function properly because
`of lack of oxygen in the soil.
`
`When watering is required, water thoroughly.
`Apply enough lukewarm (room temperature) water
`until it runs out of the bottom of the pot. This type
`of watering will accomplish two purposes. First, it
`washes excess salts out of
`the pot.
`Second,
`it
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 5
`
`guarantees that the bottom 2/3 of the pot is properly
`watered. Do not allow the pot to stand in water too
`long. Empty the drip saucer.
`
`Application of water to the top of the soil mix is
`the most common method of watering container
`plants. However, watering from the bottom of the
`container with the use of a saucer or tray is a method
`used by many homeowners. Watering constantly from
`below brings nutrient salts to the soil surface. An
`excess of these salts may accumulate in the upper soil
`layer in four to six weeks and this can result in
`burning of the upper roots and/or stem. It is a good
`practice, therefore, to water thoroughly from the top
`once a month to leach excess salts out of the pot.
`
`Potting Mixtures
`
`4. One part peat, one part pine bark, one part
`perlite
`
`Cacti and other succulents, on the other hand,
`grow best in sandy soils. An example of a good
`succulent mix is two parts soil, one part peat moss,
`one part perlite, and one part coarse sand.
`
`Packaged potting mixes can be bought at local
`nurseries and garden supply dealers. These materials
`are convenient and often have been sterilized to kill
`disease organisms and weed seed. Some packaged
`soils are premixed with organic matter, perlite or
`vermiculite and are ready for immediate use. Other
`packaged media are primarily sterile soils which may
`need amending to make them more desirable soil
`mixes for indoor plants.
`
`The success or failure of growing plants in
`containers depends to a large extent upon the potting
`mixture. There is no one potting mix which is
`infinitely
`better
`than
`any
`other.
`General
`requirements of a good container mix are:
`
`Soilless mixes consisting of various combinations
`of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite are available at
`most garden supply dealers. These soilless media are
`lightweight, easy to handle, sterile and most contain
`fertilizers.
`
`1. potting mix should be dense enough to support
`the plant,
`2. mix should have good nutrient holding capacity,
`3. texture of the mix should allow both water and air
`to pass through readily and yet retain some
`moisture, and
`4. mix should be free of pathogens and weed seed.
`
`Generally, native soils are not ideal media for
`plants grown in containers. These soils need to be
`amended with peat, bark, perlite or sand to improve
`their physical structure and water and nutrient
`retention capacities.
`
`Native soil should be sterilized to kill disease
`organisms and weed seed. Spread moist soil in a tray
`or pan and bake at 200° F for 20 minutes, stirring
`every five minutes.
`
`in potting mixes
`Foliage plants grow best
`containing high levels of organic matter, such as peat.
`The following mixes are suggested for growing foliage
`plants:
`
`1. Two parts peat, one part perlite, one part coarse
`sand
`2. Two parts peat, one part coarse sand
`3. One part peat, one part coarse sand, one part
`pine bark
`
`Clean Foliage
`
`The foliage of most plants grown indoors should
`be cleaned weekly. Plants with hairy leaves, such as
`African Violets, gloxinias, and tuberous-rooted
`begonias, should not be wet, while the foliage of most
`others may be cleaned with a moist soft cloth. Clean
`foliage is favorable to healthy growth, to help control
`insects, and to keep plants looking attractive.
`
`Fertilization
`
`The growth rate of most plants indoors is much
`less than that of plants grown in a greenhouse. As a
`result, indoor plants do not need as much fertilizer as
`greenhouse plants. Also, rapid new growth is often
`undesirable, as plants may outgrow their locations.
`
`Many problems associated with growing house
`plants are erroneously attributed to insufficient
`fertilizer. Poor growth is usually due to some other
`factor, such as insufficient light.
`
`Interior plants under active growing conditions
`should be fertilized every two to three months.
`During winter months, or under conditions of low
`light, the frequency of fertilization should be reduced.
`
`There are many special commercial materials
`available for fertilizing indoor plants. Most are
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 6
`
`effective and safe if used as directed. A complete
`fertilizer, one which contains nitrogen, phosphorus,
`and potassium should be used. Manufacturers are
`required by law to indicate the fertilizer analysis on
`the container label. This analysis is given in a series
`of numbers such as 10-15-10, 20-20-20, 14-14-14. The
`first number of the series indicates the amount of
`nitrogen; the second, the amount of phosphorus; and
`the third, the amount of potassium.
`
`Fertilizers are available in many forms: water
`soluble powders and pellets, liquids, tablets, sticks,
`and time release pellets. The liquid and water soluble
`powders and pellets are diluted in water as directed
`and poured on the growing medium. The tablets,
`sticks, and time release pellets are designed to release
`nutrients gradually and evenly over a given period of
`time.
`The length of
`time during which these
`fertilizers are active will depend upon the formulation
`of the material,
`indoor temperature and watering
`practices.
`
`CONTAINERS
`
`When choosing a container for an indoor plant,
`several factors should be considered. The selection
`will depend upon the size of the plant and where it
`will be placed in the home. Containers too large or
`too small present an awkward appearance. The
`container must be large enough to provide space for
`root growth for at least one year. If the container is
`too large the nutrients are leached from the soil
`before new roots can reach them, and the soil mix
`may remain too wet.
`
`Clay pots are porous and allow water to evaporate
`through the sides and,
`therefore, require more
`frequent watering than plastic, glass, metal, wood or
`glazed pots. For that reason, most amateurs who
`have a tendency to overwater are usually more
`successful with clay pots.
`
`Containers without drainage holes should have a
`layer of coarse gravel placed in the bottom to allow a
`space for excess water. Another method of using
`containers without drainage is the "double-potting"
`technique. Pot the plant in a container that has a
`drainage hole and is one inch less in diameter and
`shorter
`than the
`container without drainage
`(decorative pot). Place several inches of gravel in the
`bottom of the decorative pot and place the potted
`plant on the gravel layer.
`
`REPOTTING
`
`As the upper portion of a plant grows, the root
`system gets larger, eventually filling all the available
`space in the container and becoming pot bound.
`When this happens plant growth will be restricted
`unless more room for root growth is provided by
`repotting.
`
`The frequency of repotting depends upon the rate
`of growth of a particular plant. Slow-growing plants
`may require repotting every two to three years, while
`fast-growing plants should be repotted annually.
`
`Water the plant thoroughly several hours before
`removing it from the container. Then invert the pot
`and place your hand on the potting mix so the base of
`the plant is between the index and middle fingers.
`Next, tap the rim of the pot on the edge of a table
`until
`the root ball slides out of
`the container.
`Remove an inch or two of potting mix from the top
`of the root ball. If the roots are matted around the
`root ball (pot bound), force the roots apart and cut
`the entangled roots. Select a pot with a diameter
`equal to 1/3 to 1/2 the height of the plant. Usually,
`transplant to one size larger than the pot in which the
`plant was previously grown. Place a small piece of
`broken clay pot over the drainage hole to keep soil
`from draining through the hole. Do not include other
`aggregates in the bottom, since the aggregate actually
`slows water movement through the pot.
`
`Cover the bottom of the pot with a layer of
`potting mix and firm with fingers. This layer of mix
`should bring the top of the root ball within one inch
`of the container top. Fill around the root ball with
`mix and firm gently. Water thoroughly and do not
`repeat until the potting mixture surface becomes
`slightly dry.
`
`PROBLEMS
`
`Cultural Disorders
`
`Improper culture may result in unattractive plants.
`Some of the common symptoms and conditions which
`may cause these are:
`
`1. Brown leaf tips or burned margins--may be caused
`by too much fertilizer or soil allowed to dry
`excessively.
`
`2. Yellowing and dropping of leaves--are caused by air
`pollution,
`low light
`intensity, chilling, over-
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 7
`
`watering or poor soil drainage and aeration, or
`root decay from soil-borne diseases or insect
`pests.
`
`3. Weak growth or light green or yellow foliage--is
`caused by too intense light, lack of fertilizer, root-
`rot or poor root system.
`
`4. Small leaves and long internodes--indicate too little
`light.
`
`5. Small leaves and short internodes--may be caused
`by lack of fertilizer or being grown too dry.
`
`6. Small new leaves and leaves curl under--regular
`type, may indicate too much light.
`
`Insects*
`
`Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects covered with a
`white, powdery material. When mature, they vary
`from 1/5 to 1/3 inch in length and some species have
`long wax filaments extending from the rear of the
`body. They damage plants by sucking plant juices.
`
`Spider mites are about 1/50 inch long when
`mature and may be greenish, yellowish, reddish or
`virtually colorless. They are commonly found on the
`undersides of the leaves. When plants are heavily
`infested, fine webbing will be noticed. Mites suck
`juices from plants through their needlelike mouth
`parts. A 10 or 15 power magnifying glass is very
`helpful in detecting infestations before severe damage
`occurs.
`
`Aphids may be green, pink, black, brown, yellow
`or blue in color. They vary from 1/25 to 1/8 inch in
`length and may or may not have wings. They are
`pear-shaped, have long antennae and two short
`cornicles or tubes extending from the rear end of the
`body. Aphids suck plant juices and cause new growth
`to curl and become distorted.
`
`Scales can be almost any color depending on the
`species. They are 1/8 to 1/3 inch long when mature
`and are surrounded with a waxy covering that may be
`circular, oval, oblong or pear-shaped.
`Scales are
`found on both sides of the leaves as well as on twigs
`and branches. They may be almost hidden in the
`crevices of stems or axils of leaves. Scales cause
`damage by sucking plant juices.
`
`Whitefly adults are about 1/16 inch long, white in
`color and resemble tiny moths. When disturbed they
`
`will swarm about the plant. The nymphs are 1/16
`inch in length, pale green in color, and flat and oval
`in shape. They are found on the undersides of the
`leaves and cause damage by sucking plant juices.
`
`Fungus gnat maggots, Springtails and Psocids are
`soil pests that may damage the root systems of house
`plants. Fungus gnat maggots are white, worm-like in
`shape and about 1/4 inch long when mature.
`Springtails range in size from microscopic to about
`1/5 inch long, are usually white in color and jump
`when disturbed. Psocids range in size from about
`1/32 to 1/16 inch in length, are usually white to gray
`colored and may or may not have wings.
`
`* Note: This information was taken from "Insects
`and Related Pests of House Plants and Their
`Control," Ornamental Horticulture Department
`mimeo by D. B. McConnell and D. E. Short.
`
`Controlling Insects
`
`Carefully examine any purchased plants to be sure
`they are free of pests. After bringing a plant home,
`isolate it for at least a month before placing it with
`other plants.
`
`Always use sterilized soil for potting to help
`prevent infestations of soil pests such as nematodes,
`springtails, psocids and fungus gnats.
`
`Spraying plants with a forceful stream of room
`temperature water every two weeks will remove many
`insects before they have a chance to become
`established. This procedure is best done outdoors or
`in a laundry sink. Spray the lower surfaces of the
`leaves where most plant pests are found. Spraying
`also keeps the foliage dust-free and the plants looking
`attractive.
`
`Washing with soapy water and a soft cloth may be
`all that is needed to remove aphids, mealybugs and
`scale insects from broadleaved plants. Use two
`teaspoons of a mild detergent to one gallon of water.
`
`If one or a few plants are involved, you may be
`able to control aphids and mealybugs by removing
`them with a toothpick or tweezers. Caterpillars may
`be picked off plants by hand and destroyed.
`Cutworms, slugs and snails may be found in their
`hiding places during the daytime and destroyed or
`picked from the plants at night when they come out
`to feed.
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 8
`
`An easy way to control a light infestation of
`mealybugs or aphids is to wet or remove the insects
`with a swab that has been dipped in alcohol. Swabs
`recommended for babies are excellent. Be careful not
`to over apply, as alcohol may burn the foliage.
`
`For severe infestations or where large numbers of
`plants are involved, chemical control may be needed.
`For recommendations on selection and application of
`insecticides and miticides, contact the Agriculture
`Extension Agent in your county.
`
`Diseases
`
`Plants grown indoors are troubled with few plant
`diseases. This can be attributed in part to the low
`humidity within the home. Most plant diseases
`spread by spores which require moisture for growth.
`
`Many problems commonly attributed to diseases
`are the result of unfavorable growing conditions.
`Overwatering is the primary cause of root and stem
`rot. Excessive watering causes an oxygen deficiency
`in the soil resulting in root death and subsequent rot.
`Often soil-borne fungi and bacteria will invade root
`systems which are weakened by an oxygen deficiency.
`Root rots can be prevented by using sterile, porous
`potting media, containers with adequate drainage
`holes, and proper watering. When root rot occurs,
`the top portion of the plant may be saved by air
`layering or by taking cuttings.
`
`PROPAGATION
`
`The most common and satisfactory method of
`propagating most house plants is by cuttings. A
`cutting is a portion of a plant taken from a parent
`plant. There are many types of cuttings, but the most
`important ones in propagating house plants are stem
`and leaf cuttings.
`
`The rooting medium for cuttings should have
`good drainage yet hold moisture and be sterile. A
`suggested medium would be 1/2 peat and 1/2 perlite
`or coarse sand.
`
`Root-inducing hormones can be used on plants
`which are difficult to root. When conditions for
`rooting are ideal, growth substances may reduce
`rooting time and permit a higher percentage of
`cuttings to root. Root hormones are available from
`garden supply stores.
`Follow directions on the
`container label when using rooting hormones.
`
`Leaf Cuttings
`
`Plants such as African violets, begonias, gloxinias,
`sansevierias,
`and most
`succulents
`are
`easily
`propagated from leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings are of
`two types--those where new plants arise from the leaf
`tissue,
`such as Bryophyllum,
`rex begonia, and
`sansevieria (snake plant); and those where the roots
`and shoots arise from the base of the petiole, such as
`African violet and gloxinia.
`
`Sansevieria leaves may be cut into sections about
`3 to 4 inches long and stuck about one inch down into
`the medium. It is important that the section remain
`right side up. Roots and shoots will form from the
`section and should be removed from the leaf section
`when the new shoot is 3 to 4 inches long. The
`variegated sansevieria will not reproduce true to type
`using this method. To retain its characteristic, it must
`be propagated by division of the original plant.
`
`Leaves of Rex begonia and other fibrous begonias
`develop young plants from their primary veins. Make
`small cuts across the larger veins on the undersurface
`of the leaf. Then lay the leaf right side up on a moist
`medium. Use toothpicks or wire to hold the leaf in
`contact with the medium. New shoots should appear
`in about two weeks. When the new shoots are 2 to 3
`inches high they can be transplanted.
`
`African violets and gloxinias can be propagated
`using entire leaf (leaf blade plus petiole) cuttings.
`Cut the leaf from the plant leaving 11/2 inches of
`petiole attached to the leaf. The leaf cutting should
`be stuck into the rooting medium only deep enough
`to keep the cutting upright and at an angle.
`
`Stem Cuttings
`
`Most house plants root easily from stem cuttings.
`Terminal cuttings of 3 to 6 inches in length should be
`taken from healthy, vigorously growing plants. Make
`a clean cut about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below a node (joint)
`with a sharp knife. Avoid crushing the stem.
`Remove a few lower leaves from the cutting to
`prevent wilting, but the cutting should not be heavily
`defoliated.
`Stick the cutting one inch into the
`medium and firm gently so that it remains upright.
`
`Stem cuttings can be rooted in plastic bags or in
`containers covered with plastic bags. The plastic
`cover keeps the humidity high but does not prevent
`oxygen and carbon dioxide movement in and out of
`the container. Set the container where it is exposed
`
`

`

`Care of Plants in the Home
`
`Page 9
`
`into the cuts so the stem does not grow back together.
`Dust rooting hormone on the cut surface. Place a
`moist ball of sphagnum moss about the size of a
`baseball around the stem and over the girdle. Wrap
`a piece of plastic film, 8 to 10 inches square, carefully
`about the branch so that the moss is completely
`covered. Tie the ends of the plastic to form a
`moisture-proof package. Aluminum foil can be used
`instead of plastic film to cover the sphagnum moss.
`
`After roots have penetrated the moss ball and are
`visible on all sides, the layer can be severed from the
`parent plant just below the moss ball. Remove the
`wrapping without disturbing the roots or removing the
`ball of moss and plant the layer in a container using
`a good potting mixture.
`
`To simplify information in this publication, some
`trade names of products were used. No endorsement
`of these specific products is intended nor is criticism
`implied of
`similar products which were not
`mentioned.
`
`to daylight, but never in direct sunlight. Heat from
`direct sunlight will be trapped in the plastic bag and
`kill the cuttings.
`
`Division
`
`Division is simply separating a large plant into
`two or more plants. Plant division is often used for
`African violets, sansevierias and many other plants
`that produce several shoots from a central growing
`point.
`
`Division can be done by hand or a knife can be
`used to split the plant apart. Be very gentle and try
`to obtain as many roots with each plant part as
`possible.
`
`Air layering
`
`Air layering is a method of plant propagation
`used to induce plant stems to root while they are still
`attached to the mother plant. It is an effective and
`fascinating means of propagation for large plants that
`have heavy stems. Many old, tall, spindly plants can
`be reclaimed by this method.
`
`Select a healthy, vigorously growing main stem or
`lateral branch. At a point 12 to 15 inches below the
`tip, completely girdle the stem by removing a strip of
`bark 1/2 to 1 inch wide from around the stem.
`Another procedure is to make a long, slanting cut
`upward about 1/4 to 1/2 way through the stem. On
`large thick stems, make slanting cuts on opposite sides
`of the stems. Place a toothpick or matchstick
`
`