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`RES T03/I Tliilli SHHP
`
`with Roger Gibson
`fl lu|: l(!‘.ii1l.l|IlJlI --|1:'c:I.1h'.l
`!l|‘.‘.<'ll
`1mun:I «£12.:-.:.-~I=m!~.«
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`
`Taking the Fifth
`F’H:l::n:I |,-::u':u- _: mp mil: .: :.:=:.:In|:.-.1
`"£4.01. z.-1.: LI Hm-E‘: In.-r |:l.um!
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`l.‘rainmin' the (trash Box
`t'Iu.'r.-v.-mn;; ;m Aiiuuiy In: .1 m::nu;:I
`li'E!lI:I~lIIl:'>iiiI’!lI.
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`Mini—SIai'tor Science
`Big:
`|7()’.'.’!!l
`in :: s,m.'u|| u.':::':-.::g!_e: can
`llH}‘.l| yum ::l."ua-.-n ni,-<:<?:,,
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`Stannin’ 3 Big One
`£'uHm;v_ mrw .‘:.‘3{€
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`Une Man '3 Treasure
`Hut. '{s;"l7-.::i1‘.I I‘. ihw H"-ll"
`n1 N:-rl 51-nlv.
`lI.:I(i\‘.<:r1\.
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`Super CI'iiiSf.'I'
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`[lit The Line .
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`Mupar Scene .
`Mancini Drag News .
`NASCAR Update .
`.
`.
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`Events .
`.
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`Pertormance clinic
`
`Parts Denartmiin *“
`
`.
`_
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`18.’ Fn Circuit Rider
`mn
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`would nave: ()r1!(:Il3(1.
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`Trouble Maker
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`
`ON THE COVER A
`eeiing off the miles in a piistina
`'71 Ham! ‘Coda Is Incieada
`'
`dream dn‘ve, and editor Geoff
`Siunkani gota chance to dojust
`' that when Smith ‘Stakes and Ken
`Marshlet him get behind the
`wheel for a real-world test spin.
`The remote and story about this
`car Is the grand finale of our
`En
`*SweetE-Motion. '0udas and j
`‘ Challengers section and can be
`faundonpage 68.
`’
`»'._
`i
`Photography.-Geoffstunkani
`
`'
`
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`M
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`V
`at this 1970,
`Jream car Garagof, A
`aion network.
`"
`
`’ On
`
`002
`
`

`
`Proper disassembly and documentation
`by Roger Gibson
`photography by Mr. Norm '5 Sport Club and Roger Gibson
`
`rtisan Roger Gibson of Kelso, Missouri, is well-respected
`among Mopar restoration experts. Unlike basic rebuild
`ing, “restoring” is an art based partly on observing, doco
`enting and duplicating just how the factory did it when
`new. In this first instation of Mopar Muscle's ‘State of the Art’
`restoration series, Roger begins by telling us what to do before we
`stampede to our toolboxes and start pulling apart our prized Mopars.
`While not all of us want, need, or can afford a professional can-
`course restoration. his tips. methods and "secrets" can be applied to
`any restoration project—-major or minor.
`
`‘I'll’ I:
`An authentic rostnratlon starts hatora you over turn
`a bolt or remove a part from the car
`
`In my shop, the teardown and disassembly of the car takes two
`to three weeks. I usually take at least 100 pictures before I clean
`anything or remove a part. For instance. I photograph hose and wire
`routing, all visible inspection marks, decals, labels, and how things
`are assembled. I also make diagrams of major areas of the car and
`detail the bolt-head marks that are used at every point (Figure 2).
`It is not uncommon to have three or four different types of head
`markings on the front fender bolts, or have three of one type and one
`odd bolt holding the hood on, or all the bolts on the right fender dif-
`ferent than the left-lender bolts. I recently disassembled a ‘S995 Road
`Runner that had the lower right side radiator bolt missing. After
`checking this out. I found that the hole was completely covered up by
`the radiator flange and that it had never been installed (the nut still
`had blackout on the threads). Now this is a very insignificant thing
`and should not have happened. With my photographs, I have docu«
`mented this and it is what is original on this car. When this car enters
`in judging, and if a judge notices this, the owner will have proof that
`this is correct for this car. This car was a oneowner original paint
`car, so it was easy to document. On this car. when I ran into things
`that were not typical, such as the missing radiator bolt or an unpaint-
`ed valley pan under the intake, I only had to talk to one guy to find
`
`Documenting your car is one of the most important things you
`can do if you wanttorestore it to its original state. No two cars
`that came down the assembly line were the same; they were simi-
`Iar but not identical. The information for your car has to come
`from your car. For example, what type of bolts hold on the fend
`ers, hood. and deck lid? How much blackout was used behind the
`grille or on the cowl (Figure 1). were there any factory inspection
`marks, where and how much seam sealer was used. how much
`undercoating was used in the wheel wells and trunk? What date
`code is on your voltage regulator, starter relay, water temperature
`unit, thermostat housing, oil sending unit, and so on? Your car is
`different than any other, so if you want to give it back its original
`identity, this information is the only way.
`Begin by photographing the car thoroughly. Notice the word
`“begin.” Do NOT clean the car other than washing the exterior and
`removing objects from the trunk and interior that do not belong.
`Do not steam clean the chassis, floor pan, or engine compartment
`yet. Important things could be lost. such as paper tags that identify
`the part number and vendor of the wiring harness; labels on the
`brake booster or carbs; paint-stick marks on the cowl, wheel wells.
`or valve covers. In a concours project, these things will have to be
`duplicated later.
`
`,.
`.
`,
`’
`.~.rl.v.
`~A
`
`This is lost one or dozens olplcturao we took al the application or
`the blackout on the Fish. In order to properly restore this car we
`need to Irnowjost now and where I! was applied. Blackout an the cowl
`area was a procedure used on '70 E-Rudy cars. Thispractice was not in
`effect for '71 cars, and we have seen “lots brriirl" originalpoint '70
`cars without It as well.
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`Always make a sketch ofall
`one stretch showing some or
`areas oftite car. Make town for
`
`out if it had been worked on or
`In some instances, you can
`the original owners, or the car
`redone, so research is require
`back to other original cars, pri
`the same plant and with close
`possible. for reference. I photc
`original car I see, regardless c
`size, for this purpose.
`Look for inspection marks 2
`by photos and tracing (Figures
`3c). l trace crayon marks and 2
`overlaying the area with a plea
`tic. I usually cut the plastic to fi
`mark reference points so I can
`the same place. Then ltrace th
`a magic marker. usually in the I
`mark, if possible. When its tlml
`back on the car, I take an ice p
`ture the plastic on my tracing.
`on the panel where the marksi
`the plastic with a string line (pc
`
`60 MUPAH MUSCLE www.moparrnusciemagazine.cam
`
`003
`
`.IiIf_\ .7001
`
`July 200!
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`003
`
`

`
`O04
`
`Always make a sketch ofall the dlllerenl fastenersand theirsize and location. This isjust
`one sketch allowing some oi the urrrlsrhorrrl fasteners. We make several more on different
`areas of the car. Make them for areas that have a lot of details.
`
`-'
`
`‘out if it had been worked on or changed.
`In some instances, you cannot talk to
`the original owners, or the car has been
`redone, so research is required. I refer
`back to other oflginal cars, preferably from
`the same plant and with close build dates il
`, possible, for reference. I photograph any
`.
`‘ E original car I see, regardless of the engine
` n size. for this purpose.
`Look for inspection marks and document
`by photos and tracing (Figures 3a, 3b and
`SC). I trace crayon marks and any writing by
`_, overlaying the area with a piece oi clear plas-
`
`‘
`
`1
`
`mark reference points so I can get it back in
`the same place. Then ltrace the marks with
`'3 magic marker, usually in the color of the
`- mark, if possible. When its time to put it
`back on the car. I take an ice pick and punc-
`ture the plastic on my tracing. then place it
`on the panel where the marks were and dust
`the plastic with a string line (powdered)
`
`July 2001
`
`J ,
`
`/_E3\ nOn
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`Phone: 812-342-6741
`Fax: 812-342-4880
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`..v-«.‘4.VI'"'-'-‘-Tali-3’-us’:
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`chalk. The holes leave the exact pattern to
`follow. Here again this seems like insignifi
`cant stuff, but it makes your car exactly cor-
`rect as to how it left the assembly line. Your
`car will get its original character back.
`After the initial documentation of the car,
`it's time for disassembly. During the disas-
`sembly. you can further document every
`area and individual part of the car. The docu-
`mentation will consist of how things are
`assembled lFigures 4a and 4b]: what bolts
`are used. date codes, wiring-harness routing
`and plating. with you photographing. taking
`notes, and diagramming everything as you
`go. Some might ask why all this? First, so
`you can return the car to the way it was orig-
`inally assembled. Second. I do this full time
`and it takes me over a year to complete a
`car, so my men and I will spend about 2,500
`hours on it. We constantly refer to the docu-
`mentation for assembly. When doing this as
`a hobby. it could easily take you two or three
`
`www.mopannusclemagazine.cam MOPAB MUSCLE
`
`61
`
`004
`
`

`
`
`years of spare time. My memory is not that‘
`good, and frankly, guesswork is not good
`enough for a stateof-the-art restoration_
`l always start up front. I remove the
`hood, bumper, grille, and front fenders. Dur.
`ing this, make diagrams of bolt-head marks
`_ with measurements of the length and wash
`er diameter as well as the type of plating
`used. Very seldom do all the bolts holding ‘
`the fenders on have the same head mark.
`ings. Sometimes you will find that different‘
`size washers or studs and nuts have been
`used. it's a lot to remember, and without
`documentation it's impossible to get it cor-
`rect. Here, also, you want to photograph the
`amount and location of seam sealer used on
`the inner and outer fenders so you can dupli.
`cate it later.
`
`Usually, cleaning the partsand areas
`now exposed is in order, and l document
`undercoat patterns with photos. How the, ‘
`blackout behind the grille was applied-4” pbn
`document this with photos and match the,
`:
`
`colorsto be used later if I have to restore it.
`Type of headlamps--clean these and look In
`fordatecode ink stamps on back. Thisihelps
`to validate their originality. For example, the
`old (usually GE or Westinghouse) headlamps
`have a different glass “flutlng" pattern than
`the new ones. Document the plating on the
`headlamp buckets. Every part gets scruti-
`nized. To truly restore the car, every part
`Qn
`has to be returned to its original state.
`l usually remove the doors, rear bumper,
`and deck lid next. Disassemble and docu-
`ment as needed. This will be my first load of
`parts to go to Redi-Strip for derusting and g
`'
`paint removal. Just a quick note: l always
`take steel parts that need to be rechrorned .
`to get de-rusted. Most replaters take no
`time to remove rust from the backs of the
`bumpers and the chrome is already peeling
`when you pick them _up.
`,
`T
`I always photograph the doors under the
`inside panels for paint patterns. This is usu
`ally a good-place totell the color of primer
`that was used on the car as well as the
`V mask pattern used on the inner door color
`where applicable.
`
`~
`
`’
`
`’
`
`I
`
`'
`
`;
`
`1
`
`.
`
`i
`
`
`
`
` tar0-‘98'3-il339~‘ ’
`
` ' wwmrrlaru/l'IyJaép.
`
`s
`
`»
`
`.
`
`1
`
`TIP 2:
`During the disassemhly, turtlier
`— document every area and mdivid-‘
`ualpartottne can _
`.
`.
`The inner door color was painted before
`the exterior color and masked offwhlle the
`exterior. paint was being applied (A- and B-
`nnn
`Bodycars). This wasjdoneibecause thetcyol-..
`ors couldbleed. You can verify this by exam @Wn
`ining the edge of the paint -where the col0l5- -'
`T
`‘ meet or by sanding the paint edges to. “
`T
`
`examine the layers. in the application. ofv ‘
`paint, the accent colorfsi was quite often .
`done first. For example,E‘67LG,TX; Strllle
`
`005
`
`005
`
`

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`Iinusevandmr-1i?InHg
`Irlsnil “Baa-k" returns.
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`
`Now back to our disassembiy. Next. I
`remove the engine, transmission, and front
`suspension lFIgure 6). I photograph the
`compartment. minus the engine, in detail. I
`document how the seam sealer on the fire
`wall was applied (Figure 7). I then steam
`clean the removed components, photograph
`and document bolts, date codes, finishes.
`and what's painted engine color and what's
`not. What suspension parts are natural
`metal and what is painted, plated, or
`dipped? The front suspension parts often
`have inspection marks that need document-
`ing as well as the torsion bars (Figures 8a
`and 8b). I usually set the motor and trans
`aside and wait until later to work on them
`while the body is gone to Redi—Strip. I even
`photograph what types of cotter pins are
`used and how they are bent. Picky, but
`that's how you end up with a state of the art
`restorab'on—at‘tention to detail no matter
`how small.
`I now remove the front and rear glass
`and disassemble the exterior, such as tail
`lamps. emblems and trim. Don't forget to
`record the date codes on all your glass and
`the manufacturer. On original glass the date
`code is the last set of numbers on the bot-
`tom line. For example: 29 is the code for
`February 1969. or 126 is the code for
`December 1966. The interior comes out
`next. Photos on the interior are important.
`especially the wiring on the back of the dash
`(Figure 9), cable routing for the heater. insu-
`lation placement, etc.
`Now the differential and springs come
`out as an assembly. The differential is steam
`cleaned or pressure washed and pho-
`tographed. Typically, the differentials have a
`lot of inspection marks and stampings to
`document.
`I place all the hardware and parts into
`boxes and mark them. Let's take the differ-
`ential for instance-I have a box for the leaf-
`spring removal. separate boxes for the left
`and right brake assemblies. another for the
`rest of the external housing. When the gears
`are removed. I have another for them. The
`whole time I am photographing and making ‘
`notes (Figure 10). Place these boxes in
`some order on shelves where you can read
`the contents without moving them. I disas-
`semble the whole car using this technique.
`Many timesl have 300 to 400 photographs
`when I am done.
`You should only have a body shell left. I
`often put the body on the rotator so the
`floor pancan be steam cleaned and pho
`tographed before I disassemble everything
`and remove the fuel and brake lines and
`cables.
`Soon, it’: time to pick up that first load
`of parts at Redistrip and take the body and
`front suspension to them. I usually make
`three trips to Redlstrip. The last load con-
`sists of the interior parts like the dash frame
`and trim. the rear differential, suspension
`
`'‘I-i-riTr:.~:.;:.' ‘.
`
`A. We take pictures ofhm! tho hoodpin.-
`oairies are routed and exit the grille. A
`small detail, but we know It will be right
`when the car is redone. ii. The location of
`tire special oilps for tire ‘om my light iota’
`issmnvn. Tlioroareforrrottirernin total.
`I
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`.
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`'
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`'
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`I
`
`A
`
`Amrtiropr!sbaked,iiraaroa.
`painted with aryanosol is mskedofr.
`exactly on the edge (oopposorflll. and mo
`exterior color is applied. more are a lot at J
`Imperfect original masking [obs our firm. .. 3‘.
`
`‘
`
`,
`
`=
`
`Disconnect fire motor and trans. uniliool _
`the brakes. torsion bars, and upper con-
`trol arms. and remove it all by dropping It out ‘ "
`the bottom as an assembly.
`
`'
`
`64 MDPAR MUSCLE www.moparrnuscIemagazine.com
`
`July 2001 ‘
`
`007
`
`
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`....._,.._-?r.vatv,—._-.—.—_.r.«.v.~;;....‘.£,-—.-,-«V-.,.....-p-.—.er=;
`
`
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`
`007
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`

`
`TUBA TIUIII SERIES
`
`We photograph the empty
`engine bay further before we
`
`remove the rest of the parts.
`Afterward, we pressure-wool: the
`30 years of grease and yrlmo
`
`away. In tlrls photo we see the
`
`use of seam sealer on tho the-
`
`wall area. The oheroloal strlp-
`.
`plng process dlssolres thls orig-
`
`lnel seolor so It will have to he
`rooppllod holore the palntlng ol
`the car.
`
`
`
`
`
`
`
`parts and motor parts such as oil pan,
`valve covers, water pump housing and
`
`sometimes even the block if it is very
`
`rusty.
`
`You have the car apart now and the
`
`
`first two loads are back from Redi-Strip
`‘A’ we weflmmm "MW "'9 hwdm”
`
`(Figures 11a, 11b and llcl. Start the
`zfmfm '"md8”“m ”’”’m°' ‘
`
`'
`body repairs, rebuilding parts, and clean-
`‘M’ M WWW!’ "mu "gm
`an the our ls redone. B. The loootlon ol
`
`ing and replating parts and fasteners. A
`spsolal clips for the ‘cm toy llght who
`word about paint stripping and derusting:
`
`lrmvn. There are four at them In total.
`A lot of chemical stripping shops use a
`
`heated muriatic (also known as hydrochlo-
`
`ric) acid solution to strip metal. While this
`
`does indeed strip rust it also attacks the
`
`"good" metal and reduces the thickness
`
`it. To further aggravate this situation, the
`
`proper neutralization of the above
`
`process is nearly impossible. meaning the
`
`solution still "eats" the metal long after
`
`the work was performed. Redi-Strip uses
`
`a non-acid alkaline solution that is electri-
`
`cally charged. This procedure "attracts"
`
`the chemical makeup of rust oil the part.
`
`It will not cause metal loss. dimensional
`
`changes, work hardening, hydrogen
`embrittlement, or stress cracking.
`.
`‘..- »
`2
`ii
`
`
`After this procedure, the component is
`.‘m,mpmm naked’ ",9 ma
`
`thoroughly rinsed and cleaned and treat-
`,,;,,M Wm, gmanasu ,, mask” my
`ed with a phosphate coating to stop any
`'9"! 9" "'5 W99 l5"fll'°3?Wl'l: and the
`i
`surface rusting that occurs on the now
`orlor color ls oppllerl. There are a lot of
`
`exposed bare metal. The Redi-Strip
`
`
`Iorloot orlgloal masking [obs out there.
`
`process is patented but other shops may
`
`» use a similar process. The bottom line?
`
`Ask questions! Ask what their solution is
`
`made of and how they neutralize it. Ask
`
`for references as well.
`
`Many of the things I have brought up
`
`seem minor and insignificant. I have done
`
`that on purpose, because the little things
`
`make a restoration exceptional. If the
`
`attention to detail and correctness are
`
`used throughout the restoration on every
`
`Dart of the car, whether you think anyone
`
`will ever see it or not, your car can com-
`
`
`r
`w’
`mate with the nation's best forever,
`
`because correct is correct. today or ten
`-lllsconneot the motor and trans, rmhook
`- years from now.
`
`the brakes, torsion bars, and upper con-
`Stay tuned as we continue to apply
`! arms, and remove It all by dropping It out
`
`Roger Gibson's restoration philosophy
`bottom as an assembly.
`to the "Save The Fish‘ 'Cuda in upcoming
`
`
`issues.
`
`
`
` July 2001
`July 2001
`‘
`
`Customer Help Center 800-347-5700
`meguiars.com
`Irvine - Penis - Syrirrw - l-lrrrrg Kong - Toronto
`
`008
`
`008
`
`

`
`ARIZONA
`
`RUST-FREE
`
`CLASSIC
`
`CARS 8 PARTS
`
`‘.
`
`-.
`
`p2n
`Hr.-x
`.»
`.
`Alter narelnily cleaning the front steering
`and suspension assemblies we see many
`inspection marks on this vehicle. Many of the -
`castle not: received a paint darrlr along with
`the brake splash shields, spindles, strut rod
`bushings etc. Many idler arms, steering pear
`‘ anus‘ and center links were color coded with
`a splash olpalot to identity their use on the
`assembly line. this area at the car is dncuv
`rnentorl with photographs to ensure all mark-
`ings are returned properly later.
`
`l940’s Through The 1970's
`
`009
`
`The Southwest’s Premiere Source
`For Classic Used Auto Parts!
`
`When Aftermarket
`
`Will Not Do!
`
`Desert Valley
`Auto Parts
`
`CALL TOLL-FREE
`
`(800) 905-8024
`
`We
`Ship
`Worldwide
`
`Desert Valley Auto Parts
`2227 W. Happy Valley Rd.
`Phoenix, AZ 85027
`
`(623) 582-9141 Fax
`
`Visit us on the internet:
`www.dvap.com
`‘i.'‘!u ,
`Mnflyfl
`
`All nrnsclecarvem torsion bars have paint
`riaolre on thorn. The rlghthnnd side has
`one and the Ielthaod side (shown) has two
`point deans. the color-coding oi the paint
`matches a specific part number. in this case
`the brown dauhs signify part numbers
`1857780 {right side) and 1857781 (lelt side).
`The last three digits (in bold) are stamped on
`tireandoithebaranrlere lorrnrlonthehroad~
`cast sheet as well. these markings helped the
`line workers select the proper bar andlie
`location on the vehicle. the part numbers
`ahnrearn the "llarn.l"bersosedon '68-'71 B-
`and 70-71 E-liorlycars wlth426aod44ll
`engines. Also evident are painted inspection
`marks on the torsion her rubber boot. All
`these markings will be duplicated during the
`
`;
`
`,.
`.\
`L '
`
`:
`
`.
`
`.
`
`- -,
`
`.
`
`10 Photographall the wiringroutessuch
`as under-dash, unrierhood. andbody.
`llllrlng can and up like spaghetti it it is not
`put back the way it came lrom the lactory.
`
`65 Marvin MUSCLE www.moparmusciemagazIne.corn
`
`1 llnte the radpslnt on the lace olthls
`rear brake drum. A ciuysiar Pmenger
`cars-Procedure and Materials engineering
`document dated January 31. 1959. states,
`"Apply a 2-inch Wide Paint Henri in Toward ‘
`Banter Per P.S..'a'84ti With 3404653 Enamel
`(Styled Wheels nnly). llo Paint Allowed on
`Wheel Attachment studs or on Wheel con-
`mct Area of llruro. " "Styled” wheels rater to.
`llleprnuos or to the itallyes in this vehicle‘:
`cm. Weiraroseanoriginalcarswirerethe-
`redpaint was still wet and dripping when the
`wheels were lnsmlle¢l—evlrlent by the
`amount ol thepeint on the wheel. We have
`so for continued this procedure on '89 -71
`model year cars.
`
`1 aphoto
`oi the car
`after coming
`out o! the
`tank at lied!-
`Strlp. The
`paint, seem
`sealer, and
`rest is gone, lonnlng a great loundatioo lot
`£3
`therepair wnrlr to come. At this distance the
`carbesloailyloeks like itdld heveiing down ‘ ft -
`the assembly line awaiting the chryslnr "7-
`step nip-and-Spray Anti-llust Treatment. "
`Upon closer inspection the rust darrraged
`areasboonme evldentesweiiasasrnallarfl
`at the original limelight acrylic enamel that
`refused to let go.
`
`‘
`
`July 2001
`
`009
`
`009
`
`

`
`lllat1~ltettetbtaltes?EBC
`grms IS HOW!
`BRAKES
`
`7 Just change your pads to
`E EBC Greenstuff.
`5‘, From $79 per
`
`13flaraamsameo!thaparls n
`stripnedsonamtaly. Evldantamp
`Irama, rntms, ddvaslrafl, naadsrpnnal, nallya
`wheels, "maker" bass, andbmke drums.
`
`r
`
`-
`-,
`
`_
`'~-'-
`
`it
`
`-_
`
`-
`
`A
`
`-
`
`‘
`
`,
`
`,
`
`-
`
`; d_"‘_;.
`A
`V99-siv-"
`0Kn
`Redstutt
`-:.oml-rnetztttlt:
`track day or heavy duty
`lorrnula also ztvzillztulo for
`most mu::::|e cars.
`
`0 Upgrades stopping power by 20-30%
`r O Eliminates up to 80% of brake dust
`ptn 0 Grippy high friction brakes from cold
`T 0 Effective up to a blistering 800”F
`= 0 Zero rotor damage guaranteed
`-_ O lntegrally moulded to backplates
`3;,
`I'-
`Made in the UK EBC Greenstull pads are made using aramid libres as used in the
`' space shuttle and bullet prool vests. New V4 formula ideal tor heavier US cars with
`j automatic transmissions available (or most models and years.
`
`B06 Badman BM.
`mans» '
`Untt 115-155. Bouldu City.
`NV 3900!
`Us
`RI: (818) 3-
`Fix: (It!) 351-I1!
`amtnutunvnhslufwltdldmlh
`-wvnnbc-baht.
`
`ate the mdpalnl an the lace mm;
`or brake drum. A L'Ill]3IBI Passengu
`caduro and Materials anglnaerlug -
`rt Jared January 31, 1989, sums,
`2-Inch Wm Paln! Band in farm!
`or P.S..‘l840 mm 34941553 Enamel
`meals only}. No Palmllllatvad an
`rm-Jtmanlstnds or an Wheel can-
`I of Drum. " "styled" wllsals mar to
`r or to ma flallyas In this vsIm:la’s
`than seen arlglnal cars when (‘Ila
`was still wet and dripping when the
`rare lnsl'alI9d—evIdan! by Me
`if the palm an the wheel. We have
`rlflmmd lnlspmcedara an '59 -'71
`8:’ tam
`
`-
`
`-'
`
`‘-
`
`BEWEWBHI NW PIIINTS '~
`- Do not start by steam cleaning or .
`pressure washing a thing until you have‘
`photographed every detail you can
`using a camera and possibly video
`equipment.-.
`~
`- Take care to protect or remove any
`paper tags or labels before cleaning.
`- Label all parts contalners with notes
`on what the part is and where and how kn
`rt goes back on;
`-
`V
`~
`‘
`- Take a lot of notes along the way.
`
`g
`
`Sources
`
`Roger Gibson Auto Restoration
`I06 State Hwy PP
`Scott City. MO 63780
`t‘.'»73l 26:1-2022
`fi'<rstor;r:iort Services
`
`Frank Badalson
`I80-E) 7:13-05 7!)
`N. (rm! i?e;):nrl:rr:tior2 l’:n.‘:»‘ send
`Fr'rir::ltcs
`
`Year One Inc.
`P.0. P.t').\< I’/.“J
`l'ttr:ttt2r, GA 3t)tlS5-()1 29
`E800) 9324‘-7663
`wv.-w.yu;trr>:te.corn
`HLS[()!(lflUl2 Port.-'; and Fr'ru‘:slre.-5
`
`_
`
`'
`
`.
`
`Ira, Iurmlng a great fatmdauan I0!
`rllaltta com. Aftfllsdlstmcalfifi
`allylauksllkaltdldmmllngdwn
`rrblyllnamvamng lira L‘hrysIer"7-
`and-Spmydntl-Rust Traaanent."
`‘W/Mractinnuraruslrlamasw
`urmaavldentaswallssasmsllaiaa
`ylnaltlmallgmacryllc memo! that
`Jletgo.
`
`Jul;-2001
`
`.
`
`'
`
`N
`
`.
`
`_
`
`’
`
`-
`
`»,
`
`Mr. Norm's Sport Club
`,
`(A Clot) for all M()|)EJl Erttltu:;izt:;ts)
`E;
`‘it 15'!"/<l S. La Grange Rd., Suite lr‘256
`W‘
`(Jrlanrl Park, IL. 6()rl62--'1'/'66
`(905) 508r()'/72
`\'V‘.'I\.‘.’..mI‘lt()l‘ r tts.r:ur n
`Strirjr,-r:l ‘/t3Ju'r:lr: arm’ Pltrttoggrnplry
`
`1‘
`
`-
`
`Redi stri
`of Evansville
`l'/20?€t.*:lti Street
`L‘-.-zmswIIe_ in 4771!)
`(3];3).Al2z1-9866
`F’;tErt.‘ .:2nrI Rust l\’r:rnr)vnl Sieziviccs
`
`«.
`
`»
`3
`- "
`.,
`_
`._
`‘
`- 5;;
`, Am . _;,.'_g_, _ _.
`Taylor Cable Products, Inc. ®
`F°r4(_:g$E:°
`301 Htghgrove Road, Grandview, MO 64030
`Phone: 816.765.5011
`Fax: 316.765.2452
`‘3<“a!09 39"“ 53
`Web site: http//www.taylorvertex.com
`WINI TENT"
`E-Mail: info@taylorvertex.com
`address
`
`__.
`lg
`
`www.moparmuscl9magazine.cnm MOPARMUSCLE
`
`or
`
`010