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`VOL.CXXXVI. . . No. 47.068 mum-munvmum
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`NEW YORK, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 4, 1‘93?
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`Page 00001
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`

`

`_
`
`WEDNESDAY. MARCH 1. I997
`
`Page Clo.
`
`food:
`'Power'
`breakfast has
`Londoners up
`and eating.
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`Pup uh:
`Josh and Dan Bram].
`among musicians with
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`III-chm
`Page czs.
`Dianne Wimin 'Himting
`Cnckroachea.’
`Page C24.
`
`‘—
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`In Portugal,
`Cooking
`Via Moliere
`By JEAN ANDERSON
`
` Vineyards Across America Enhance
`
`The Status of Premium US. Wines
`
`"DWARD G. GDLDHENG
`
` CE are alrly inn'n. and nape
`daily In ihe We. are qulutyof the
`
`
`but winu In the United Sinus has
`risen like bubble: in Champ-gun
`Tan ram]: is that {udayuiie mania-1.: ria-
`'
`umufbeerdmlslmfl-blampm
`mineral pmrnluln am: The United Siam
`
`Inniimun MumlumnMFl'mceul.
`modular a! {Wily whee. bin 1;. has
`achieved a new sums
`Thai flaw! I: ranted in Winn. in
`
`the man; number al mm and
`Iberia that Java apnea or mallard lrl
`
`.
`an
`w am. mm a r
`
`EWMWNEJM‘; as Georgia, Virgin
`Florida. Idaho. Him Mldfllln. Ohlo,
`Arkaml Ind Trans. m wain‘i am [at
`
`Now ”mix. whldi hu 1! whicrlel. In um
`there were 4-" summed-J and farm win-
`
`
`min: in 34 miles; by ms the numbarhad
`
` new ll'fitfili‘r
`
`team 1.7:! in 4: rules. There whim-led.
`
`using dich- awn end purchased mien,
`
`FOCH
`
`
`
`a
`“Elli-Ameflmlndnglanllgflfii,m-
`fill-ale heavilyentha premium-
`e mar.
`
`Numrflw malarial wines. or vim:
`ile
`
`pays. am In Old Warm nary. Autumnal:-
`um-iry. their New Wm equiv-lurid an
`mum every nummera wail-mun —Il.ka
`
`Gains Cami. um I: in ma honing and
`
`lit-mndltbnlng busing:
`In Aalilabula.
`om Mncnepezl‘l (enli- umber willie
`wlne made from .- Emu-Amman :iiy-
`
`bndmpeflyflia nunyflillubehmnfi
`"ll'a auper." he said “not ma dry. not Lou
`
`“5:5,. every hii as gourd as European
`
`Ellyn-quailurchnrdamey, :lbfl‘fldlflufl-
`pun. merlar. pliant hair and Healing from
`
`me muni- wine mun h caiiramia, New
`
`val-h. Wadhirigluriaad Dragon— m ramii~
`Jar. Rummy all mus, unto! nae Rock-
`
`les "inn II I rising «deal mphllunlflfln hi
`
`malnu-
`(who malaria) and villuflmre
`(sf-lie Inning). supported by advanced
`mien. In amnion. Hie euiem wo-
`Cbnlhurld Dr: Page CJE
`
`
`
`
`Luann
`DOD and nix har first lave (needle-lurk was).
`demurrer-mm (gardeningwns). sum
`did ihld small Wm wiih mapping hmwn
`Eyfi [Ind I WM“! (Haul-Elm coating mow.
`flasher mw'l mint mud and “MM In shun.
`pradiiae I :Lrinsal bell-telling maidzaaka and a
`how did mundaLwrdes Modeswbewmel’omnnl'r
`Julla all”?
`"I uni. by the bind a! WINE.” d1: laid. muln;
`down to talk in a :1 mm comiuruaiy jumbled
`wimhauku mambo roll: undilne.
`The hauu mu Modems shun with her
`ma their Who might"
`lie
`aw in
`Iaadbinlammalen Wauwunmbybird a!
`lire Government HIE :nmflwuczlmg'a‘uu Brig;
`paradise Flinn. lint-pink belladmm: Ind hedge-blah
`marvinlhesmm Mari ol’leariL ismileswusi
`a! ueiaoa.
`Misa- Mndsno'a mmdMnan seams nil, hill
`ii mwmmeulklwrm.
`It bash-151a the early-1950's Warmly ul’ l'r,
`Ihe let: her hamein thewnvindal capiin] af Evan to
`mend lhn EsuflaEn-mumh DamfluuhemMiSIMa-
`decided)" modulo measly marryiteurelui enn-
`vaal Iraialll: and I marmalaenly prepared an
`Mann! Purim-me dishes Her ambiilan we: simply In
`boonrnn a m rd tine lam
`"Bill for me this was up! passlblz," Miss mama
`”Mahmud bla- (emoaa blank mffae) andnibbliaa a
`an at me [vary-hind ails}: dials! ai Memein her
`humeprwmuud W'swm and uinre damn-y.
`Her family did mlhaverbe mmhflm Lu puma: a
`«denudegruw-Wenemmrrim—mrpmr‘ei‘
`than"
`Alluearnhls her diploma (rum lhr: Escala Ecum-
`mir Dnmbsuu. she
`married at
`v-
`3‘51”“ "’ ET.”
`ine la abandon her
`chosen career.
`"My
`mnahnr
`ukad an: In minim.
`summer." was Mp-
`desto said. “I mule
`its“. all kind: at
`mums." shn Ilsa dia-
`wvmd haw mauve
`- molten; mum be.
`“In my line: ml“
`.
`:1 adrenal. I me Very
`pad In the mun-
`nrea," aha gunman
`Evenurany,
`she
`landed slob in
`naming. needle
`Ind prdealns n the
`Filip: de Lemuire
`Imam hara-
`L-Ler aha idol: -
`job at me luau Linen
`France;
`(French
`5mm). A couple It
`the
`uaau.
`boih
`dram- mcnera, de-
`aided
`to
`”‘89
`Mollbm‘a "Mannieur
`d2
`Poureenuyiac"
`
`Ind urged him Mo- flublnvlllrflleaan
`
`.
`'
`
`“ "f“ 0‘ m
`Maria de Lourdes
`.‘mm H
`_
`Mada-m. Portugal‘s
`1'33, {:35 7:;-
`JuliaChild.
`RTP,
`the manual
`[elwlslnri newnrk. urn: in Luke pictured Murmur-d,
`apuirdlna tn HI» Madam “The! naked. 'Whn is i'hls
`girl wiur ihe his eyes?‘ "
`"my uduid nai believe 1 \us Puriugurse because
`Is
`Frmah pa wan." ill: and.
`RTP’S dimiur ur culiural programs was so im-
`pruned he askedber lube hnsl ni n :ulLurei err-lea. Sh:
`drclintd. hm Inid she aauld dn anmeihina I'or wan-Jen
`insiead. Her linl :huw — 25 minuius live on how in
`mi: Ill lflldipkev—MWI! wnh a nu people hep-nuan-
`ina her an the err-em u "Aiuchaiririha" (mule Aru-
`choice}. CrlLla uiiad her ”a nILilI'lL"
`"Nlnriren rim-rial“ was rav lucky year." III!
`minimum! on page a
`
`
`
`11:: service handles ehaut
`lilii Ille-
`Manhnllna beiween Hill and Mill
`phnneurdursa day. Mr. Wnad: laid.
`Sim since September was.
`
`.I. Biidna a sane mierud the New
`“Ii brings in new customer: — i'a
`How Telephone Orders Deliver the Goods
`Yam
`'lau neeeminr. Blldeier.
`enmher named or mailing." said
`u when who
`Ken summer.
`whldi hlr ailered nationalized serv-
`large para a! the New York Ire-.1114
`By FLORENCE FABRICANT
`
`la: !ur years in in: Boston area.
`one pruvlrle: nee delivery. aui while
`new urgurlw Wad-3. D'Agouii—
`named a diam a: 15th Sims and
`na‘s senile: Tflifldl‘. valid: aper-Les.
`granary shopping by phone may nun
`First Avenue, are firm at nine more;
`lime. in In nm always prnhiern-iree.
`INCE Imiqaiiy. when ihe "rill
`aui a! a Emmi warehnuse, i: aural-lul-
`arllpd, Ind Iii phan- chrkswol’li with
`land vendor: spread (heel:
`ii Jlril rur New York.1'lm delivery in!
`Ta camp-re "I! quality a! service
`wamin Ihemarkal Iauand
`Le Lillian: amen to cuaiumcre in all
`a lid: a! ihr: alare': inveniary.
`and me gramme: gin-ruined by ihr
`numerrume lo mums
`bummer ir tine n! he sci-vim,
`"We‘re pout-inning nurseivrs rur
`drrrcu D‘Aaosllna. Food Emporium,
`and .1. Blldiierlr Sane — Mantle!!! mi-
`electronic lhnpplna‘” Mr. sciruidlar
`he.“ llama.
`there have been mm..-
`Thaw In pniuilo wha rniu ihe
`said. "li's ihe wave a! ill: imam"
`dullvnrics. Th: wirpnune sped up me
`Did-lashinued lull-
`rvtc: smear."
`derr wrrr placed wlui each more an
`Enmeni‘reledug'u higaarirllems ate uid Jame: Blldner. who view. urc
`process — iln: silos-par could call in
`two ace-sinus several wueiu; lip-re. A
`[his order msha neiylbarhnod grader.
`name mher :hnn {Ills how's mu
`curparaie leIlllg rooms and test
`telephone service as lwaydt hunch
`Willi 1hr.- emergcnar: a! urn modern
`used, and meanders were paid for by
`klldiaas in rnidicwn and dwnwwn, MgcusinmenJWInaiy perceninraur
`crudll card In Du! nlmc.
`swarm-ricer. huwevrr. this canven-
`where fewer reinli :auraer eiiisL
`ieienbam summer: never even us.
`ienne aislppeared. almangh New
`Dependlvin an whll was naked for
`The D'Aenalino min we: ihe iirn
`iaai In the "are." On reqilesl. hle du-
`Yorker: eauhi eiiii have new food
`anri when mind serviaee did bellm-
`ta Establish In arder-bypnunr serv-
`livery alar‘kl will even pick up a one
`puma-are dullvend. Bur mm. by
`flaan aihern Geography was a radar.
`let. iidiiieolniuly ins-I an meri-
`inmer‘r laundry an the way in drop
`Ion Nai ull aervlcu dellvrr all war
`them ln Ihe Riverdal: nailan al the
`a" ihe groceries.
`popular demand. grocery shaming
`
`by plum ls mmlng back,
`BIOM— LIE yur. Taledag expanded
`Delivery in (run u Blinder. which
`use any. or even War III u: Mflifilslv
`111m: supermlrkli mainr nl'for ma
`in rnmmpere Mnnhllun 1mm the
`lmpll arders unill ii PM. — sev-
`Execullvu Al all Him: dulli: llld.
`Batmry to hem Smear The Food Em-
`derlng by phnrru iur welamun In a
`Confirmed on Page CE
`porium Councflluri has nperued l1i
`
`Convenience reigns, but the
`
`quality of service can vary.
` demand had increased rar ieieghnm
`"The Mendel la nnarmaiin" all!
`Emrl' shopping: aunwmerl are
`he Wendi. manager a! me Food Em-
`men Lao husywllli Inhsur
`porium Carinecilan. whim tall» or
`nu chil-
`dren to snap. Some studies an found
`flri'l away. a armrni
`ielephanu
`Lhm maximum Ipcnd 15 percent In;
`number and "1!: ihnrn l'rum ii: stare.
`lime in "II supermarliei
`than they
`equipped with a oompuurayalam, ai
`dld I file!!! Ian,
`Wresi End Aymara and Tnih suite:
`
`
`
`W
`
`Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission.
`
`Page 00002
`
`Page 00002
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`

`

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`Page 00003
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`Page 00003
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`

`

`THE NEW YORK TIMES. WEDNESDAY. MARCH 4. 19“
`
`
`
`
`
`1 head aesien lettuce
`2 bananas. normal-loo
`
`__. __
`I pound wearers: radgrapos
`
`G rocery
`I pint allllavlrgin em oil
`
`
`
`WWW
`
`Telephone Orders
`Deliver the Goods
`ale Elmer. Bul
`the chain than not
`Eontlnned From Page Cl
`carry meclalty Items men all treat:
`Int-i or literary WIS ul meat
`surh A: thick 1qu veal
`era! More liller than the two others.
`Flood Empllrlum Crimea-m had a
`1! la the only service open on Sunday.
`wider range at mammalian. Includ-
`Buduers aye-tom 65 mt tan-o
`and Milled: ordered a hhnflwjflv
`orders. Include“; sending only
`til
`ten urban copy a libel the register
`mfllgaat. yet tl made our: error-- In
`encounters-1 food when two were or-
`tape was exirem y difficult. Bildneir
`deredjnd twlee unordered amoral:
`was lhe only chain that made billing
`ti shrimp and steering beef, On one
`ooelslun the beer was accaplably
`Getting the wrong ro
`a
`or
`err-om
`err-Jr ndise
`lean: on nltflhcr It was mttremely
`Incorrect
`ltd-nudes.
`and {riding
`tarry.
`lame {Luna missing. are some of the
`For meat and medatty loads. Ella-
`problems ln ihnpplnfl by phone.
`I!
`ner alarm the competition — It: veal
`anhglnttlone are made.
`telephone
`dualism the Iasueeglta Wm:
`elerlu are instructed in m with
`leaned—hut the atoclr or name bull:
`the wltnmcl' whenever poaaible.
`imam asIrlier-wlwai flair. was
`Complaints are handled lridiv'ldually
`inwmpiete. The entity as
`the
`with Irinamcl mmfl-IB repllmi‘l
`product we] uneven. A bunch a! Hill.
`me some dayil amlluab' necessary
`lar eumple, was “my
`and at all possible. Otherwise,
`the
`As her priea. the dilemmas on
`item is credilad or untamed at a
`specific loads seem to balamz our.
`mutually convenient urea.
`But a major price tanner is the ”W-
`"A woman who enter- a big Oven-
`lce charge.
`on the first order.
`Stul‘fer Roaster for dinner and re-
`whldl carries no dell
`tutu-52.
`aelvei . utreepoune dilaltert Last-d
`Teledlg I‘J‘llmfi Food
`niporlum
`will need the notions; made the
`charges” unnrder: up to sin and to
`some day.“ said Mr. Wood: or the
`peroentoa thermal billl on a
`order
`Foo: Emporium nan-teem. Making
`Miriam.wllhanefling all.
`quick manger I: more dirtieull rui-
`All lheseniice: MIMECIKEICS
`'reledag. with [is Bronx location
`or credit turd: (of pa
`L’llelrdaa
`The three aervlees said they re-
`however.
`ruqull‘ies aI mammal-it to
`celue relatively lew complaints —
`pmme a credit-card number when
`less then In pom-int at TUNIS- [or
`plane; a telephone order.
`diamyle. The riot-es eumowleogea
`What ahwpmg for groceries
`that Minn?!” probably do not de-
`telephone. be I
`It but mate wbi
`mand a correction on every mistake:
`Item: you are eldble DI'L How impor-
`maen-arsinbrandarslaeeanbe
`ml i: the color of the blthmm H.3-
`talented.
`ruE. the flavor oi the cat loud or lha
`“ll 1: a pmblerrl area," Mr. Wood:
`the ol the aweet peppers? Try to or-
`said. "The grammar must be asked
`der Produce. meats. mined and
`about arbazliuuons and must under-
`trybywelshtlnsteanotbythc leer.
`stand what it means Someone who
`You can check prices an make
`specifies white Charmin bathroom
`comparison with ieiephme clerks.
`tllsue and want: no whstltutm will
`They should also tell you about me-
`I'IDI twelve my bathroom tteuoe il
`elalt. Food Emporium Col'llluctlon
`we're out a! that brand or color."
`doeomla
`ldlawuntcoupanawlth
`telephme o
`but the other xcrv-
`When it came to camp-nag uie
`lct-e do Glue them to the delivery
`lently good an
`such 5
`a m
`cleflt Tipping ls optional
`mrlasau exlra-ivlmln aliveoll antica-
`hasten'l'eledas'a‘yroducegeaa clans!!-
`your
`in: list and check
`Iombian culleebeans Wercavailablo.
`"I: under Cantu! y when you receive
`
`it. [Marni the alone at once about nee—
`Teledag war Lia the beat oramr
`Lad and mini rellable n! the three
`eeaary replloemenll. credits or en-
`oer-vices. Because at the centralized.
`rhangee. Order: made lei-he moraine
`computerized system.
`the operator
`are uluaIIy delivered by late aller-
`kneweltaclly what was in star-J: — in-
`ooari. ltyau VIII not be at home to re-
`cludlng sine. brand and price —- and
`eelve Ihe order. be litre on give la-
`iu-nctien: Iu lha Irlephorle clerk.
`could provide choices while talilns
`
`W 2
`
`
`By mmv GUNST
`PDITLAND. Me.
`HEpungenI odoroi' (rub cab-
`huge overwhelmed the iri—
`terlur cl‘ .llm Rallal's car. In
`the back not were several
`large buckets n! coleslaw. Prepared
`for one ol the {our Arb 'a
`decline
`at Hedgehog Hill organic arm ant!
`rail-load reetauraots the: Mr. Ra rel
`and his brother. Kan. own In southern
`Mellie. Mr. RII'I'cI recalled thinking
`ashe dmuu. "why rnn'twebe normal
`and buy our load from narlena] die
`lrlbulors [Ike every other rust-food
`reulaurant ln Amerlna?"
`The answer Is clear:
`taking thl:
`kind a! a proedi tn lall loot! has won
`the Rat els a etatewlde reputation
`and a growing clientele.
`For must fan-1m chains. can.
`lormlly and corteirlency are the rules
`L matte .Iilrr: the loud served in New
`Your Incite and tastes exactly like the
`Iliad served in Cleveland. The Rallels
`mrriea muse rules upside down. a
`good portion of the lood they serve at
`their resinurllrlli 1: grown by local
`Mal-ta farmers. Whenever possible.
`ihntmd I: organically totem. without
`lhe ure alchemical sprays.
`Maine Mall Road Illsoutll Portland
`loolta
`llkl: many suburban strlps
`items the country. Gas stations. au-
`nnarkela, department store: and
`
`cod
`restaurant:
`clutter
`the
`elreei. There. across lrnrn a McDon-
`Ild's. a weney-i and a Burger Klng
`stones on nrby's. at llrsl glance. ll
`looks like most heel sandwiches tut
`usuttl. In keeping with the Lima other
`
`
`
`m m m mae- nun-n
`Involved with service at Arby's are. from left.J‘u-t1 Economcu with vegetables; John
`Bennett with shellfish; Jim and Ken Rafiel. the owners, and jirn Zust with bread.
`‘ll'lul'a VIII Ilea homemade llhheulall.
`Arby’: franchliic mile-d. Jim. 29, ten
`a company's
`ago. a
`lani
`r
`l
`coleslaw and heal: been epruiull.
`mile a to :flln his brother ll! ”1: buil-
`orange cowboy hat. is p entered all
`3"“ msllurall‘ls around IJIQ ting.
`At the counter. a mot-he:- placed. an
`nes:
`rt Maine. Thelr daclalm to buy
`over lhc place. Same